Printad privately for the Author by 
Z, & L. Rosenfield, Uew York, T^ith 
Inkograph prints "by Soltmann &; Co . , 
and limited to lOO copies, of which 
this is iiiuaber . / 



5> 



0,-V 



V 



a 



Copyright, 1913 
by Osborne R. Lamb. 



©CIA357825 
t 



Portrait of Antoin Lang as the Christus, 
in the Passion Play, given at Oberam- 
mergau during the Summer of 1910 



C ¥ T S U T S 

Page 

Introduction i--iv 

The Lure of Europe 1 

Our Departure 4 

Chercourg 15 

St. Michael 18 

St. F-alo 23 

Paris 29 

Pontainebleau 37 

Farewell to Paris 41 



G-eneva 



46 

Lake Leman 51 

Montreux 54 

Caux 59 

The Zweiziminen Pass 62 

Interlaken 64 

Lake Prienz 69 

The Brunig Pass 72 

Lucerne '3 

Mount Pilatus 79 

Zurich 89 



Page 
En route to the Tvrol 92 

Innsbruck ^^ 

En route to llunicli 105 

Oterairimergau ^^"^ 

The Passion Play 1^^ 



Munich 



Vienna 
Bohemia 



Dresden 
Berlin 



Maarken 



Zandvoort 



125 



En route to Vienna 133 



137 
143 



Prague ^^"^ 



151 
157 



Amsterdam ~ 1"^ 



169 



The Amstel ^"^^ 



176 



Haarlem 1'''^ 

The Hague 1^"^ 

Scheveningen 1'^ 

Across the Channel to England 193 

London ^^^ 

Swanage 'by the Sea 206 

2ack to London ^1'' 

OOP 

Canter'burs'- '^'^'^ 



.1 . ^__ 



Page 

Deal 225 

En route to Oxford 229 

Oxford 233 

Leamington 242 

Eenilworth Castle 246 

Guy's Cliffs 248 

Warwick Castle 252 

Stratforci on Avon 2d6 



Chester 



In Retrospect 

Adio 



267 



Liverpool 2V3 

Homeward Bound 282 



3C4 
308 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Le Mont Saint llicliel 

La Madeleine Paris 

PontainelDleau Le Palais 

Le Pantheon Paris 

.Geneve 

Castle of Chillon 

Les dents du Midi 

Interlaken 

Luzern 

Gallerie an der Axenstrasse 

Zurich 

Innsbruck 

Hoflcirche Innsbruck 

Oberanmergau 

Das neue Rathaus Munchen 

Hifbrauhaus Munich 

Stefanskirche Vienna 

Karl splat z Vienna 

Die Te ink ire he Prague 

Burg i-Iarlstein Prague 



Page 
19^ 
29 
37^ 
41/ 
47. 
55 
59 
65 
73^ 
79/ 
89v 
93 
99/ 
115. 
125 
131/ 
137 V 
143/ 
147 
151^' 







Page 


Da,-^pf schifflandeplatz 


Dresden 


155. 


Dom. 


Berlin 


157, 


ITational gallerie 


Berlin 


163^ 


Koninklijk Paleis 


Amsterdam 


165/ 


Eiland lilarlcen 




169/ 


Cahal Scene 


Holland 


183^ 


London 




197/ 


Houses of Parliament 


London 


205/ 


S^wanage Toy the Sea 




207^ 


Canterburj' 




223^ 


Magdalen College 


Oxford 


233/ 


Street in Warwick 




253/ 


Chester 




2.67/ 


St. George's Hall 


Liverpool 


273/' 



lUTRODUCTIOlT 

To one desiring to visit the old v;orld for the first 
tine, the proTslem of the best route to take becomes one 
of importance. If a vacation of three raonths be allov;ed 
and the spring or autumn be selected, the routes to Italy, 
Spain, or Greece via the Mediterranean offer their at- 
tractions; but if the summer months be chosen the trip 
described in this narrative v/ill be found to be one of 
the best, for it includes some of the most interesting 
countries scenically and historically of the Continent 
and does not neglect the cradle of our Anglo-Saxon civil- 
ization, England. Por that reason I have recorded our 
journey in detail from the departure of our steamer in 
Hoboken to the arrival of our ship at the pier in New 
York, hoping that the information contained in my narra- 
tive may be of service to others. 

Reviewing our tour at this late date, there seems to 
ne but one way in \7hich our route could be improved, and 
this I have mentioned in my chapter on Deal. Three 
months pass rapidly rrhen travelling abroad, and \ihen from 
this vacation one sixth of the time must be deducted for 
the ocean voyages, the remaining seventy-five days are 



-i- 



little ei:;ough, for the countries I'-lajLt^cL, Indeed, a y^BJf 
T^ould not suffice to see them thoroughly. 

In order to make the journey I have described and 
enjoj- it, good health a,nd congenial companionship are 
essential, as well as a sufficient sum of monej'- to pre- 
vent anxiety in case of illness or other misfortune. As ■ 
the expense of the tour nay he according to the tastes 
and meaais of the traveller, I need not discuss this ques- 
tion. ITor need I refer to personalis^ conducted tours i 
Which eliminate much discomfort and responsihility. But 
to those who prefer to travel independentl3'- as I have 
always done, I would commend to their attention the new 
and very practical Individual Tours issued "by Messrs. Thos. 
Cook and Son ¥:hich include transportation and hotel accom- 
modation for an entire trip, or part thereof if desired, 
for one or more persons. 

As the name indicates, these tours are individual in 
character and guarantee the traveller transportation and 
hotel accor:iiiodation for the time and date specified. The 
peace of nind v;hich this gives one while travelling in 
the busy summer season can only be appreciated by those 
who after a weary day's journey have landed in a foreign 
city unable to secure accomiiodations for the night. Fur- 
thermore as these tickets are non-negotiable and non- 
transferable and are paid for before departure, a 



-ii- 



comparatively small sum of money need be taken with one, 
and. if tliie be in a Letter of Credit or in the popular 
form of Traveller's Express checks, the tourist is safe- 
guarded as far as it is possible to do so. 

As the checking of baggage now obtains in Europe 
much the sarrie as in this country, a small steamer trunk 
may be taken without any great expense. I have no quar- 
rel with those who prefer the cumbersome collapsible bag, 
but I believe that it is an imposition on one's fellow 
travellers to crowd a small railroad compartment with one 
T;hen a small fee will permit the owner to register iz to 
his destination. Moreover, as the variation in climate 
In a European trip is ver3'- great, especiallj'- if one 
crosses the Alpine passes, both light and heavy clothing 
become necessary and a trunk is therefore indispensable. 

Perhaps the chief objection to individual tours 
comes from the uninitiated who fear being unable to roake 
themselves understood in a foreign language; but as I 
have explained in my concluding chapter, while a knowl- 
edge of both French and German were necessary in the 
past to have made the tour described, conditions have so 
changed in recent jj-ears tliat one may make it now with a 
knowledge of English alone and experience little or no 
inconvenience. 

-iii- 



One other observation "before proceeding rrith my 
story. If one travels individually; that is, unattend- 
ed by a courier, good guide books of the covintries to be 
visited become an absolute necessity. There are tian^' 
such, bu-;: for all English-speaking citizens the old and 
reliable Baedecker I believe is the best. 

During ity many trips abroad I have acquired a snail 
library of these guide books and it is from them that I 
have gleaned many of the important facts recorded in my 
narrative. I have augmented this information from local 
guide books secured en route, and it now gives me pleas- 

I ure to acknowledge m;- indebtedness to all. Herevrith I 
append the publications consulted:- Baedecker 's various 
guide books of the Continent and Great Britain; "Tlie 

i Official Guide of Lake Leman;" "Brucknann's Guide to 
Munich and its Environs;" "Guide to Vienna, text by 
L. Lehr;" "Guide to Vienna and Environs" by R. Lechner; 
"Official Guide to Prague and the ICLngdon of Bohemia;" 
"Collier's Guide to Dresden;" "OberaiiDiergau and the 
Passion Play" by Perdinand Peldigl; "The Passion Play 

! at Oberanr/iergau" by ¥.T. Stead; "Guide to Zurich and 

Environs" bv G, Graber; ''The Cathedral of Canterbury" by | 

1 

^Hartley Withers B.A. ; "Guide to Lucerne Lake and Environs" 
I by J.C. Hecr; and "Chester" published by Huke's library, 
Chester. 



-IV- 



TIIE LURE OF EUROPE 



I -think i-c will be adiaitted by all thoughtful people, 
that \7o are living in an era unparalleled in the history 
of the world. Tlie tremendous advance in science and in- 
vention, in the past fifty years has surpassed the dreams 
of the most sanguine optimist, and the wealth which these 
agencies have brought into existence is so well employed 
that deserts are made to bloom in a day and cities grow 
up in a night. \Ih.en a nation has supplied the demands 
of its people, it seeks other lands in which to sell its 
surplus, thus reciprocal trade relations are engendered, 
and the various countries are brought into closer rela- 
tione with one another. Commerce or foreign trade is 
therefore a civilizing influence, notwithstanding the 
fact that it has brought mzmy bloody wars in iiis train. 
However commerce is not the onl^r agency that is working 
for a more intimate relation of the nations. Foreign 
travel is accomplishing that which foreign trade cannot 
do. Travel is bringing the various peoples of the earth 
into closer social relations and its effect as an educa- j 
tional and civilizing influence cannot be estimated. Com- 
merce exchanges the material products of one country for 



-:- 



that of another. Poreign travel extends the realm of 
}:noT;ledge and exchanges thought, and the traveler and the 
resident are "both benefited "by the intercourse. It 
1 TTOuld "be inverosting to ascertain the amount of money ex- 
pended anmjially in travel in all the countries of the 
^7orld. Unfortunately no such figures are attainable. 
Suffice ix, the sum must be a prodigious one and this for 
the reason that it is estimated that the people of the 
' United States alone, have expended 21,000,000/ of dollara 
abroad during the last season. Surely this is an unpre- I 
cedented amount, and it is not too much to assert that 
I the major part of this sum has been well invested. TOiile 
[ it is true that many travel for health, others for pleas- 
' ure a,nd a few for business, all receive benefit from the 
I intercourse. Purthei^ore, interclaange of social relations 
disarms prejudice, encourages friendship and inspires a 
broader sympathy with our fellOTmen. The dajr is past 
v;hen a nation can live in seclusion as was possible a few 
centuries ago. There is a world movement in progress to- 
day vrhich is so far reaching in its effect, that even the 
wildest fancy of the prophet cannot foretell its ultimate 
benefit "o mankind. It is well therefore for us to 
study the ti-easures that are to be found in the old world, 
not merely the sciences and arts, but all that pertains 
to civilization, for it is b^'- co-relating these tliat we 



-2- 



get a "broader and more intimate knowledge of the v/orld we 
live in, and as the years roll "by we nay perhaps contem- 
plate with satisfaction its spiritual and material 
progress. It is for this reason that a three nontha ' va- 
cation such as I am a"bout to narrate is of the greatest 
"benefit to those who have never traveled beyond the 
confines of their own United States, for the countries 
we visited having had the advantage of centuries of cul- 
ture offer opportunities to the student which cannot "be 
found in a young and rising nation like our own. 



-3- 



OUR DEPARTURE 

There -was a time, and that \7ell v;ithin the memory of 
many living ■ooday, when a trip to Europe was c moat ven- 
turesome exploit. Fortunately it is no longer so, for 
the dangers of the deep have been conquered, and one is 
now nucli safer upon an ocean liner than upon a crowded 
metropolitan thoroughfare. 

Waen ^iTashington Irving made his first trip to England 
in the year 1815, he took the flyer of his day, a sailing 
ship. He does not inform us in his narraxive how long 
it took him to make the passage, but it is interesting 
to read his description of the vo;''age and compare it with 
a trip upon one of our modern ocean liners. Alas.' the 
jauntjr sailing ship of his time has passed from the pass- 
enger service to that of slov; freight; nevertheless an 
air of romance still hovers about that gallant craft and 
as we pass one on the open seas, with studding sails set, 
and her rail awash, bov;ling majestically along, we wonder 
whether or no the luxuries of modern ocean travel have 
not deprived us of many simple pleasures and experiences. 

But time is monejr, at least that is the crj'- of most 
Americans, and the fastest and most luxurious steamship 



-4- 



finds its passenger list al\'TB,ys fulL during i;lie~season. 
"hat was the case with the S.S. Cleveland of the Hamburg- 
American Line that sailed from llexr York for Cherhourg on 
the afternoon of June the eighteenth, 1910. 

ITot desiring to he einharrassed by the crowd of pass- 
engers who eiTibark at the last moinent, I took my baggage a- 
board the day before our departure, and had an opportunity 
of lookjng over the vessel that was to be our home for 
the next eight days. All was confusion. Preight and 
stores were being put aboard and the cabins and salons 
were receiving their final cleaning preparatory to sail- 
ing, nevertheless I had an excellent opportunity to in- 
spect the ship and was surprised to learn that she had 
just coBie from a trip around the world, and that she was 
now homeward bound after an absence of three months from 
Hariburg. This v/as the first time I had ever heard of 
an Atlantic Liner being used for such traffic. I there- 
fore made further inquiry, and learned that she and her 
sister ship, the Cincinnati, had been built expressly for 
cruising, and that in many respects I should find her ar- 
ranged differentljr from the express steamers of the same 
line. As the Cleveland registered 18,000 tons and had a 
cargo capacity of nearly 15000 tons I was anxious to dis- 
cover how such a ship could be made to pay. A glance at 
the vessel herself lielped to elucidate the matter. She 



-5- 



v;as evidently "built for several ptirposes., and^ aJLtl^ou/^ 
her cargo capacity was large, yet her passenger accomciO- 
dation ^as so great that the revenue from this source 
aiust be very large. This can he seen from a glance at 
her passenger accoiaiuodations , which are designed for 230 
first class, 400 second, 530 third and 2,200 steerage or 
fourth class, making a total of 3,360, not including the 
crew of 360 officers and men. Furthermore, although 
equipped with everj* modern convenience, and propelled by 
twin screws actuated hy quadruple expansion engines, her 
coal consumption for her size and speed, is very small. 
This is important, for on a cruise of the world it is not 
possible alwajTS to secure fuel at the end of a week's run. 
iioreover, a speed of sixteen or seventeen knots puts her 
in a class with the average modern liner, so that during 
the suim/ier season she may take her place among the North 
Atlantic squadron, and profit from this trade. It will 
be evident therefore that the Cleveland and the Cincinnati 
are the latest examples of a new tyj>e of stesoniship. One 
that combines many advantages to the traveler and fair 
profit to the o'-'mera . They mB.y never compete with the 
express steamers which make 25 or 26 knots per hour, but 
they will no doubt be able to show a profit when the 
others show a loss. It would be interesting to describe 
in detail the interior arrangements of the Cleveland and 

-6- 



show how it is possible to house and feed 3700 souls for 
the eight or nine days without serious hardship to anyone, 
"but that would divert me from my purpose. Naturall;'-, 
those travelling first class receive the "best that is of- 
fered and the service and cabin accommodation in this 
class maj'- well be compared to that of a modern hotel. 
But the same cannot be said of the other classes v/here 
ever;'- cubical foot of area is made to render full return 
to the company. -he little German Band, which has always 
been a feature of this Company's ships, whether in the 
li7est Indian trade, or that of the Orient, was painfully 
present when we embarked, I confess I have never been 
enthusiastic over this kind of music and was glad when 
they had ceased and we set forth upon our voyage. 

The day was oppressively hot, but as we passed out 
into the stream amid the adieus of our friends, I chanced 
to look in the west and there saw a bank of heavy omi- 
nous clouds that threatened a squall. Had we been under 
full wajr, we might possiblj'- have evaded this battle of 
the gods which was coming. That was impossible v/hen we 
entered the ship channel a half hour later. Here the 
squall struck us in full force. As if by magic, the sun 
disappeared, the bay which had a few moments before been 
a scene of placid beauty, now became a roaring cauldron, 
great sulphorous clouds cane rolling down upon us 



-7- 



producing a darkness akin to niglio liglated every now and 
then "by a crashing thunderbolt that drove all but the 
intrepid from off the decks. Then the rain descended in 
torrents and our course became more and more difficult. 
ITevertheless our pilot decided to continue on. Fortunate- 
ly he passed out of the channel safely and before we had 
reached the Ambrose Light Ship a rift in the clouds dis- 
closed the pilot boat not five hundred yards away. !rhis 
was a gratif^T-ing sight to everybody, for I am certain our 
pilot never saw a buoy from the time the squall struck us. 
9vir stearrjer no^<r attempted to slow down so that the pilot 
boat might approach us and take off the pilot. It re- 
quired some time to accomplish this, for the steam tug 
that is used for that purpose was being tossed about in 
a lively fashion. However after considerable maneuver- 
ing she reached our lea and put off a row boat manned by 
tv;o men. Into this frail shell the pilot descended. 
Then the rowei's pushed off and we started upon our voyage 
across the Atlantic. 

It would require much time to describe the daily 
routine enacted upon our steamer. The service however 
is one of the marked features of these ships and is 
based upon the routine of the German ITavy. Comaequent- 
ly, everything moves with perfect precision. A large 
complex/*ent of men are required for the culinary 



-8- 



departrcient, cabin and table service. These ai'e well 
chosen from the smaller steamers of the line where they 
serve an apprenticeship of nan:'- years before they are 
transferred to the Atlantic service. The^'- are thus taught 
the routine aboard ship, and a few of the best are select- 
ed for the band, Altho their wages are sciall, this is 
roundly augiaented by the generous tips of the passengers. 
What these amount to on a voyage it v/ould be difficult 
to ascertain, but it is certain to be a verjr large sun, 
and explains why the service of this department is so 
good. One of the features of ovir ship much heralded by 
the company was the fact that every first class passenger 
had a seat at table. This is not the case on many liners 
where during the suminer season a double service is nec- 
essary. However, I confess to disappointment at the ar- 
rangement of the tables in the dining-salon. These were 
round and made to seat parties of four, six or eight. 
The meals were served a la carte, and v/hen all the pass- 
engers appeared at table at once it was quite impossible 
I to be served prompt l3r, I venture to predict that ---his 
•33q:eriment will be abandoned and a return ijade to the 
more practical table de hSte. A restaurant in a hotel 
is neoettary, but it is not aboard ship, for where has 
one to go ex<;ept from one deck to anotlier and luncheon or 
dinner parties are an absurdity under such conditions. 



-9~ 



I need not recount the daily routine except to re- 
mark zhat the dinner served at seven P.M. was a most 
formal affair. Tlie little German Brjid discarded their 
brass instrtunents for strings and the meal was accoLipan- 
ied throughout "bj'- excellent music. In the evening three 
of the best lausicians played classical selections in the 
salon on the main deck a.nd as these concerts were always 
well attended, it was a tribute to their ability. Music 
is a language that all ma;" understand and when one is 
conten~. to enter "he mood of the musicians, there is a 
solace in it that is very beautiful. I regard the in- 
troduction of classical or salon music on our liners as 
one of the best evidences of increasing appreciation of 
that art which laakes for the refinement of life. 

The thunder storm which had accompanied us dovm the 
bay was soon lost at sea, and in its wake there csjue a 
strong northwest wind that bowled us merrily along upon 
our course. This v;as a good omen, and twenty-four 
hours after we left the Ambrose Light ship v;hich is now 
the point of departure for all east bound craft, we en- 
tered the gulf stream. At once the temperature in- 
creased and rugs and overcoats were soon discarded. This 
Grulf current or stream is one of the wonders of tlie 
Atlantic. It proceeds from the South and touches the 
Southern coast of Florida, from thence it runs northerlj'- 



-10- 



between ITassau and Bermuda and in the aiuamer season its 
western edge touches the Island of !Tantucket, from this 
point it is diverted north-easterlj'' across the Atlantic 
and is lost in mid ocezin iDetxveen our coast and that of 
England. The stream is very narrow at its source the 
tropics, "but gradur.lly increases as it advances, "being 
about 120 miles wide at Cape Katteras. There is an im- 
pression that this current reaches as far as England and 
that it is its genial warmth that makes that country 
habitable. This is an error. The current cannot be 
foiind further west than 25 or 30 degrees of longitude 
but the tremendous air current that follows the stream 
continues upon its course and reaches the coast of 
northern France and Southern England, 

The second da;'- out proved to be a beautiful one. 
The sun was shining when I went on deck and the white 
caps chased each other in sportive glee as we sped upon 
our way. I'otwithstanding the fact that the northwester- 
ly wind with which we started was still helping us along 
the air was as balmy as the tropics. Por the first time 
since we set sail a slight motion was perceptible in 
the ship, but as she was so large, being 600 feet long 
and 65 feet v7ide it required something more than a sum- 
mer breeze to disturb her equilibrium. A ball on deck 
was therefore announced for the evening. It has been my 



-11- 



pleasure to witness laany of these affairs In "th.e various 
vc^'ages I have made, and I confess there is no "better way | 
to get the ;/oung people on shipboard acquainted with one 
another. Of course the sociability of old times is no 
longer possible. The steamers are so much larger than 
those of former years that one cannot hope to get acquaint- 
ed with everybody, and common prudence suggests that in 
these matters it is v/ise to go slow. However I love to 
watch the young people enjoy themselves and dancing is 
perhaps one of the most healthful and innocent amuse- 
aents. It is needless to remark that after the ball the 
air of refrigidity or reserve that had pervaded our pass- 
engers, soon disappeared, the passengers bi'oke up into 
little groups and those sets held together for the re- 
mainder of the voyage, after the first day or tv;o all 
settle down to the routine aboard and then one day is 
much like another. It was therefore with pleasure that 
I watched our ship steadily nearing port. 

17e were told that on the eighth da}- out we should 
sight the Scilly Islands. These are a mass of precipi- 
tous rocks lying many miles from the mainland of either 
Prance or England, and form a superb land mark for ves- 
sels approaching the English Channel. In former voj-ages 
I have passed almost within rifle shot of these danger- 
ous rocks and clearly seen the superb light house and 



-12- 



signal station that sunaounts thera. Tlae course of our 
ship this time however brought us inore to the southward 
so that the village of St. David's was scarcely viaihle, 
nevertheless true to the proiiiise of our captain, on the 
eightJi day out at one o'clock we had passed the islands 
and were headed for PljTQOUth, England. Our progress up 
the Cliannel was unquestionably tha nost interesting part 
of our voyage; Having taken the southern route to the 
Scillys and as is often the case having passed but few 
vessels on our way, we had the satisfaction now of pass- 
ing steamer after steamer, outward bound, and sailing 
craft of all descriptions. 

At eight o'clock we entered the road stead or outer 
harbor of Pljrmouth. Tlie sun had set, but the twilight 
which is one of the characteristics of these latitudes 
still permitted us to gain a fair view of the coast 
and city in the distance. As the twilight gradually 
vanished tlie flickering lights of the town began to ap- 
pear and we ca^'ie to anchor. Then the signal of an ap- 
proaching tug was heard and a few moments after our 
engines had ceased their throbbing, an unwieldy paddle 
Bteamer came alongside to take the passengers and mail. 

In order to avoid the confiision which is occasioned 
by disembarking, I sought the hurricane deck and to my 
surprise found it deserted. A gentle zephyr wafted from 



-13- 



the land, "brought the fragrance of the dovms near Idzt, 
The sky aoove v^as no'v a canopy of gauze through wliich the 
stars r;ere peeping one by one. Scarcely a hreath of wind 
uas s-irring, yet I could discern a fishing smack near loy 
idl;.- drifting upon the mirrored waters of the iiarbor, and 
knew that it was feeling the land breeze which had brought 
me "he odor of new nown hay. My reflections were soon 
dispelled however by the shrill whistle of the tug along 
side T/hich had cast off amid the cheers and adieus of the 
renaining passengers manj'' of whom, like myself, were to 
disembark at Cherbourg, whilst the others would proceed 
to Hamburg, the home port of our ship. If I had enjoyed 
the i-est and relaxation of the past eight days 1 knew 
that the laorrow would bring its cares and that it would 
be many v/eeks again before I could look upon the sea 
that should bear me once again to uy native land. 



-14- 



C HERBOUR G 

i It T/as seven o'clock on the morning of the twenty- 
seventh of June, when our steamer entered the roadstead 
of Cherhourg. Af-cer a few moments delay we anchored a 
mile or more from the outer harbor or brealnr/ater, a stup- 
endous v:ork that will when completed, give shelter to the 
entire French squadron. A3.thougli our signals had been 
seen while entering the harbor the steam tugs that were 
to carry us ashore had not yet arrived. This gave me an 
opportunity to survey the coast, and observe the power- 
ful forts that crovmed the hill back of the tov/n. A 
glance at the map will explain why these are necessary. 
Cherbourg is situated upon a peninsular projecting into 
the English channel, from which it is but a short run to 
Plymouth or Portsmouth and in case of war this port would 
offer many advantages to an invading army from England. 
Cherbourg at present is a small town with little or no 
commerce, yet I can imagine a time when it may rival 
Havre. It has many of the pretentions of its neighboring 
port, a Custom House, and City Hall, a Theatre and Casino, 
several banks and a few shops of importance, but beyond 
these buildings and one or tv/o important thoroughfares 
the to-.vn is a desolate lot of rambling old houses and 



dirty streets. 

It required an hour or more to disembark the pass- 
engers and mail, then came the formalities of the Custom 
House and at last v^e were free to go. All the passengers 
T;ho disenljarked with us took the train direct for Paris. 
Wg however decided to let our trunks go forward in bond 
and with such hand "baggage as we retained take a short 
trip in Ivorraandy and Brittanj'- before reaching the Mecca 
of Americans. Walking therefore to the Hotel du Casino 
near b;* we found excellent accom-^odations awaiting us. 

Our party of six included a lawyeT and his wife, a tutor 

i 
of English literature, two college boys and mj'-self , As 

we were all intent upon gathering the best that Europe 
had to offer, the outlook for an enjo;rable trip was as- 
sured. However, we decided to make hast© slowly and 
I therefore rest a das'- in Cherbourg before proceeding to 
St. Michael and St. Malo. 

As it had been many 3'ears since I had visited France 
I feared that I might experience some difficulty in mak- 
ing myself understood in Prench, fortunately ny fears 
were soon allayed when it became necessary for me to 
speak with one of the Custom officials. To my great sur- 
prise I found that my knowledge of the language had not 
been lost, but that it had simply slumbered the v/hlle, 
and when called upon by necessitjr the words flew to my 



-16- 



lips \7ith the facility of old. It is certainly very 
curious to explain this phenomenon, but the same or sim- 
ilar cases have been remarked by psychologists and would 
lead one to believe that the brain is a store house of 
thought, just as a bank is a store house for money. We 
may neglect our balance for a while but the treasure is 
still there and vrhen demanded will be paid to us in full. 
Cherbourg held no alliirements for us. After a walk 
through the tov/n and a visit to Le Comptoir National 
d'Escompte where we made the first draft upon our letter 
of credit vrere content to remain in our hotel and rest, 
knowing that the next day would be a busy one . 



•17- 



ST, KICKAEL 

It v;as a teautiful morning Mhen I awoke on the 
28tli of June. The rainy weather which had so persis- 
tently invaded this coast had ceased for awhile and our 
party were aircious to depart. After a hurried breakfast 
v;a vrere driven to the R. E. Station, Checiin de Per de 
I'Oest and started on our v/ay to Pont Orson. Although 
it is "barol^'- one hundred jnilos to this point. It took us 
from 9 A.M. until 3 P.M. to make this part of the Journey, 
we later transferred to a steam tram which took us to the 
Chateau a distance of about seven miles, and then our 
das'-* 3 journey was at an end. 

-wenty years ago I had visited this wonderful 
relic of medieval times in company with some friends. 
At that time a luuibering stage coach was the only moans 
of co/nmunication. Alas.' today the tourist travel has 
increased to such an extent that much of ancient charm 
has disappeared. Ho^vever the Chateau "being now under 
government protection and control has been repaired and 
is at present in excellent preservation. As an example 
of Oothic architecture it will always be admired. Stud- 
ents make frequent visits to it and one could well spend 



-18- 




-<^ Mont J^fnt-M'c/ief 



several dajj-s in studying the daring construction that has 
perraitted this magnificent mass of buildings to be sub- 
stantiallj'- built upon a pinnacle of precipitous rocks 
projecting from the sea. Like most European monuments it 
has had im.ny vicissitudes, being successively a fortress, 
a monastery, a prison and finally a shrine for the tour- 
ist. Had it not been protected by the sea its massive 
walls might long ago have been destroyed, but time and 
war have treated it kindly and today it remains the nob- 
lest and best preserved monument in northern Prance. It 
is not easy to describe this wonderful chateau, photo- 
graplia do this immeasurably better than v/ords can hope to 
do. But I think I express the general impression when I 
say that the first sight of it is disappointing. ¥e are 
obliged to approach it from the land side, over a cause- 
xf&y of solid stone about three miles in length. At this 
distance the chateau appears diminutive, but as we come 
nearer wo see the fortified wall which encircles the 
island, and above this a cluster of a hundred or more 
houses which form the village of St. Michael. Above 
these buildings rises the chateau to a heiglit of 400 or 
more feet. The masonry that supports this rambling mass 
of architecture is of gigantic proportions and it is due 
to the excellence of this foundation that the chateau 
is in such fine preservation. Pour or five centuries ago 



-19- 



a forest grevr at the foot of the fortified T;all. Since 
then the sea has encroached until nor; at higli tide the 
isle is encircled h;;' the sea. Hien the tide recedes the 
scene is riost desolr.ve, and if it were not for the con- 
, needing causev/ay all coiimunications v;ith the mainland 
' v;o"ald 03 impossible, for there are man;/ treacherous, 
quick sands to har the v/ay. 

The arrival of our steam tram was the signal for an 
innumerable lot of touters to beset us and beg us to take 
quarters in their various hotels, fortunately we chose, 
the oldest one of the place, dignified b^*- the title of 
' "Lr. Haison Poulard Ainee. T-venty years ago Madame 

! Poulard made this resort famous for her omelets. I 

j 

i still reiaember seeing her superintend the making of these 

herself and recall with pleasure the cheerful sight of a 
j dozen or more chickens roasting before a bright wood 
I firo. Aloho the hotel has since passed into the liands 

of some of her relatives it is still well maintained but 
{ lacking in that geniality that ruade her proprietorship 
so chariiiing. On arriving at zhe hotel, we were given 
rooms in the annex, the hotel being completely full. 
, This annex is an old house situated on the hill side 
; many feet above the tovm, and approached by a series of 
: rock cut steps. Seing sho'wn to my room I opened the 
i casemem: windov/ and looked out upon xhe dreary waste of 

-20- 



sand that extended far out into the English Channel. 
Tlien surveyed my room and finding an air of familiarity 
about it enquired the number. "C'est numero trois", the 
xaaid replied. Then I recalled that it was in this identi< 
cal room I had slept twenty years ago. I mentioned this 
to the maid and she retorted - "C'est bien curieux 
Monsieur, H'est ce pas." And indeed, it was very cur- 
ious to think that after a lapse of so many years I was 
again to sleep in the same nest I had enjoyed years be- 
fore. Then my mind was reflected back to the companions 
who had accompanied me at that time and I XTished they 
could liave been with me to enjoy it again. 

A good dinner and a sound night's sleep did much to 
refresh us so that on the morrow we were readj^ t6 visit 
the chateau. Under the care of an excellent guide we 
made a tour of the castle. It took fully an hour to 
accomplish this and it was well that a guide accompanied 
us for there are so many intricate passages that one 
might easilj'- be lost in the labyrinth. Of the many 
"beauties of the chateau I v/as most impressed with the 
buttressed roof of the chapel that surmounts the chateau. 
Prom this vantage point we 1-iad a view in all directions, 
and as the sun was shining at the time we could look far 
out over Hormandy and could discern in the distance the 
spires of St. Malo, twenty miles av;ay. 



-21- 



Eut sight as seeing is tiresorae at bes";: and I Ijsft 
my friends and returned to the hotel, vthilst they con- 
tinued through the town, investigating its crooked streets 
and quaint "buildings. 



•22- 



ST. MALO 

On the afternoon of June the 29th we returned to 

i 

j Pont Orson and from there took the train to St. Malo, 

i 

I Altho only twenty miles it required two hours to make this 

• short journey so that it was quite six o'clock \ihen we 

1 

! were driven into the court j^-ard of the Hotel de Prance 

! and Chateaubriand. This hotel has the distinction of 
liaving been the birthplace of the famous philosopher and 
writer Chateaubriand. The room in which he was born is 
still shovm, but I was sorrj'- to learn that the building 
was to be demolished in order to permit a more modern ad- 
I dition to the hotel. Such is the fate of most historic 
j sights that are the property of private individuals. How- 
ever the French government is awaking to the importance 

: of preserving some of the best of these momoments and 

i 

I vrherever these fall under the care of the state, they are 

I 

I v;ell cared for. 

St. I.Ialo is one of the best examples of an old forti- 
fied tovm in Prance. The walls and towers have been re- 
paired and a promenade built upon them so that one may 
make a complete circuit of the town. 

The sun had set and it was quite eight o'clock when 



-23- 



I smarted out to v;alk around the t/all. The twilight gave 
a soft lingering light h-j xaeana of v/'hich I could look far 
out on the Channel and note the sullen storm clouds which • 
I sav; drifting landv/ard. I therefore hurried on and soon 
reached the harbor. A few drops of rain and the rushing 
wind of a squall passed across the ba7 v/ith the speed of 
an express train. Looking southward I saw the waters on 
the opposite side of the harbor lashed into foaci, but in 
a few nornents the squall had passed and then the twinkling 
ligtits of the harbor shone out upon its sombre background. 
I was about to proceed when the sound of distant music 
attracted zny attention. Por a moraent I was at a loss to 
know from whence these dulcet sounds proceeded, but my 
curioBit5'' was satisfied an instant later when as if by 
liiagic the Casino at Dinard flashed into a blaze of light. 
This sudden denouement was most unexpected and looked 
about to see if I could be the only one who had witnessed 
this superb display. Yet there I stood like Casa Bianca, 
quite alone, not, 'tis true, upon the deck of a burning 
ship, but upon the parapet of an ancient wall the romance 
of which if it v/sre written would fill a volume. 

St. lualo has always been a farorite watering resort 
for the English, who find it easy to visit the Channel 
Islands and spend their sumirisr near home. This is made 
possible by the excellent steaiiiers cross daily from 



-24- 



Portsmouth, Southampton and many other ports and the 
town is consequently extremely prosperous. It has many 
fine shops and buildings, and a garrison of infantry is 
always quartered there. In the suiomer season it can 
"boast of a population of tvtenty thousa,nd or nore, and its 
"beach, though small, is quite as good as any on the 
Channel. Recently nian3- fine apartments have been "built 
on har"bor side of the town and the top flats of these are 
ver^r desirable, as they overlook the wall and liave a fine 
view of Dinard. But you may ask why ahould an apart- 
ment at the seashore be preferred to a cottage? The 
explanation is simple however; most Jrench and many 
English fetmilies take their servants v;ith them on their 
summer outings and justl;.'- prefer an apartment of their 
own to a crowded hotel. PurtherLiore these apartments 
are often luxuriously- furnished and as the Casino and the 
Bathing Pavilions are not far off, thsre are many advan- 
tages that compensate for the choice. 

On the 30th of Jane we departed for Paris. ¥e 
ViTould gladljr have remained a daj'- longer, but the weather 
being unsettled we determined to proceed. It had been 
our original intention to visit Troueville and Rouen on 
the \Tay to Paris but an these to\ms lay far to the Forth 
and are not approachable except by the slov: omnibus trains 
we left them for a future trip. At 9.30 A.M. we T;ere off, 



-25- 



and as the temperature rose, the fog lifted and we felt 
certain of a sunn;' and "balmy day. This was encouraging 
for although the distance is only 350 niles it takes 
nine hours to make the run, and we wished to see the 
coun-cry at its best. 

About an hour after leaving St. Ilalo we entered the 
most fertile part of Brittajtij'-. The country now as far aa 
the eye could reacii resembled an iijmense richly cultivat- 
ed garden, verdant fields of grain and clover were visible 
ever.-s-where, and every now and then we would pass some 
ancient or modern chateau situated upon a knoll or hill- 
side overlooking acres of beautifully tilled fields. As 
I saw these an uncontrollable desire came upon me to de- 
scend and investigate the locality. This desire was prob- 
ably encouraged by an experience some fifteen years ago 
related me by my father when he and my mother visited the 
Chateau of Combourg, the ancestral home of Chateaubriand. 
Prom the descriptions of the place, thej"- had expected xo 
sitness an old weathorbeaten castle, devoid of all modern- 
ity. Ti/liat was their surprise hovvever on arriving to find 
the chateau in excellent preservation, repaired and re- 
furnished in the most modem manner, even to the installa- 
tion of a steam-heating and electric lighting plants. This 
Js the case with many chateaus in Prance todaji-. And the 
-reason is not far to seek. Tlie millionaires, both foreign 



•26- 



and native, invest in these estates, (which are invaria- 
bly located in the most arahle and fertile lands in Prance) 
and the investment from land rents alone v;ill usually re- 
turn them four or five per cent on the noney. The owner 
can therefore possess an ancestral home with ample till- 
able ground for his needs and still have an income from 
the property. Such is rarely the case in this country, 
■where many estates that we see in the Berk:-;hires and else- 
where cost the ovmers thousands of dollars a year for 
maintenance. 

Our route to Paris lay through Rennes, Laval, Le Mans, 
Chartres and Versailles. Ax five o'clock we approached 
Chartres whose noble cathedral looms high above all the 
buildings of the to'vTO. I had visited this church so 
famous for its stained glass windows many years ago in 
company with my brother Frad, and still remember the 
disappointment we experienced at seeing threo of the v/in- 
doY/B which load recently been cl3aned and repaired. After 
cleaning these windows were undoubtedly inferior in color 
to the others, yet they were made approximately,- at the 
same time, thus the accuEjulated dust of centuries having 
been removed the crudity of their coloring became appar- 
ent and we were forced to conclude that it was the dust 
of time that had softened their harsh tones and not the 
hand of man. I venture to predict that the art critics 



-27- 



will have to roview their opinions of this glass, and 
that it \7ill eventually take a less exalted position in 
the history of the art. 

Uot long after leaving Chartres vre passed St. Cyr, 
the West Point of France and at six o'clock the Palace of 
Versailles and its beautiful gardens came In viev;, an 
half hour later we arrived at the Gare Montparncsse, and 
rere soon rolling along in a taxica"b to our destination, 
the Hotel Continental. 



-28- 



PARIS. 

Who can describe rrith justice the City above all 
others in Europe that allures the peoples of all climes 
and nationalities? Certainly not I. Yet v/ith the ex- 
ception of London and Lyons no city other than my native 
town Jfev; York is better knorm to me. How many times I 
have visited Paris I do not know. I only know that it 
&lxraya retains its charm, and that now after a lapse of 
ten years I experienced the same enthusiasm that I did 
upon my first visit in 1883. 

Those who have read the memoirs of an Englishman in 
Paris, will remember what a Mecca Paris was in the six- 
ties to the artist, philosopher and literateur. It is no 
less so today, notv/ithstanding the grov/th in wealth and 
art of Rome, Vienna, Berlin and London, Wliilst each of 
these cities irtay justly claim a certain individual suprem- 
acy, Paris alone remains the peer of all. Yet it is 
smaller than London and little larger than Vienna, Berlin 
or Rome. I think Her; York may justly boast of a larger 
population and greater wealth, but its most ardent admir- 
ers cannot favorably compare it with Paris. There are 
many reasons for this, but the most important is, that 



-29- 



Paris, like the other great capitals of Europe, is not 
only the coinmercial hut also the political center of the 
' nation. ^i7e have chosen to keep our political center a- 
part froTiJ our cominercial capital. Consequently diplomatic 
and governmental life is only enjo;'-ed in Washington and 
that during the session of Congress. Hov.'ever it is not 
iinpossihle that this separation will produce in tine a 
governiaental capital more unique than any of those in 
Europe. But it is futile to predict. Suffice it, Paris 
at present justly holds the palm for the "beauty and im- 
portance of its public buildings, for its spacious and 
vrell-maintained parks, and for its well-arranged and 
liandsome boulevards. As for its treasures In s-cience and 
art, it will be years before any city will bo able to 
produce schools or academies, art galleries or museuiiis 
comparable to those of Paris. Tlaese are the shrines of 
fell peoples and all nationalities are welcomed to them. 
ITine or ten da.yB in Paris is not enough to see it 
well, yet that v;as the time we had alloted for it. There 
are so man^r attractions and the life is so different from 
that of either London or New York, tliat one should live 
there for a season of three months at least in order to 
leisurely enjoy and profit bjr the vacation. Unfortunate- 
ly that has never been possible for me and my experiences 
therefore are like those of most tourists who spend tv/o 



-30- 






v/eeks there and then pass on. It was during the Exhibi- 
tion of 1900 that I last visited Paris, and the contrast 
of the gaiety of that season and the present was most 
marked. The Taeauxiful buildings which covered the Champs 
de Mars have all disappeared. The Palaces of Nations 
which bordered the Seine and the brilliant cafes v/hich 
T7ere such an attraction, no longer exist and there is 
nothing Deft but the lap of the river against the quay to 
Biark the scenes of past gaiety. The Pont Alexandre III 
and the Palace des Beaux Arts still stand the sole monu- 
ment of an exhibition that covered acres on acres of 
ground. Such is the change that has converted this part 
of Paris from fairy land into a hum drum city. However 
the other quarters, the Chacips El^.'-sees, the Place de 
1 'Opera and the boulevards are as ga.y as ever. I have 
often delighted to sit upon the terrace overlooking the 
Place de la Carrouselle at niglit and v,ra-cch the traffic 
pass tlirough its mase of lights and monuments, and then 
when v/eary vrould v;alk up the jBoulevard de la liadeleine, | 

to the Boulevard des Gapucines and thence to the Place | 

I 

de 1 'Opera. At this point is situated the famous Cafe de 
la Paix. Here I v/ould rest a v/hile to v/atch the traffic 
and then pass dovm the Hue de la Paix to my hotel. On 
one of my visits to this celebrated cafe, I chanced to 
arrive after the opera and fovind the place thronged v;ith 

-31- 



the elite of the tovm. The scene xtelb a brilliant one 
and I \7a3 obliged to take a table at the back of one of 
the rooias of the inoerior. Prom this vantage point I 
could watch the gay scene. IVerywhere about ne were 
ladies and gentlemen in full evening dress, chatting and 
laughing whilst they sipped their chocolate or ate oheir 
ices. Hot far from me were a group of Trench people, two 
ladies and two gentlemen, intently listening to a gentle- 
mr-n who he.d joined them. All v;ere quite oblivious of 
my presence and this gave me an opportunity to study the 
groups and note the costumes of the ladies. Thej*- v;ere 
evidently ladies of good families and the gentlemen were 
also men of distinction. They had just come from the 
Opera and were enjoying some refreshments before return- 
ing home. The ]a dies were perhaps twenty-five or thirty 
years of age, and had it not been for their beautiful 
Greek costumes and the striking manner in which tlieir 
hair was dressed, I think they woxild have been considered 
quite plain. As they were decked out however, they were 
Liost striking in appearance and naturallj"- e,ttracted con- 
siderable attention. Although their faces were rouged 
and po';dered thej^ wore no jewelry whatever, both v/ere 
smoking a gold tipped cigarette and were quite oblivious 
of the eyes that were watching thorn, ^en the elderly 
gentleman had finished his discourse they arose, put on 



-32- 



tlieir opera cloaks and the partj'- departed .in private 
equipage. ITcw the line of demarkation cetweon the demi 
mondaine and the ladj'' of fashion is "becoir.ing so slight in 
Paris today, that only the initiated can diacern the dif- 
ference. It is very pathetic to see good v;omen essaying 
the v;iles of Circe wh^n the simplicity of Pej^che would be 
more attractive. But such are the times, and the fear of 
being unfashionable drives the frivolous to the other 
extreme. 

During the summer season the theatres have little to ^ 
attract us. I witnessed L'Oiseau de Feu at the opera, a 
ballet or pantomime beautifully performed by the Russian 
Ballet. The story it had to tell v/as nonsense, yet 
there was not an empty seat in the house. I am at a loss 
to account for such a failure, for the Prench rival the 
world in productions of this kind, nevertheless such was 
the fact and we charged the e:xperience up to profit and 
losa. 

I visited only one other theatre during my staj'" in 
Paris, and that was the new Port St. Martin, where 
"Chanticler" was still being performed to fair audiences. 
My impressions of this drama are not such as v/ould en- 
couiage its presentation here. Briefly it is a brill- 
iant idea exptinded by tirf;3ome speeches in blank verse 
into a play of five acts. It has its moments of action 



-33- 



but the plot is too simple to construct such a structure 
upon. Purthermore v;ho can sympatlaiza with chickens, dogs 
and rabbits. The idea v/as fanciful and if it had "been 
coiupressed into an hour and a half instead of three and a 
half hours the result would have been better and no one 
would have been disappointed. Rostand will have to try 
again if he wishes to surpass Aristophaneae. 

The Salon which was fonDerlj*- held in an imiaense 
building on the Champs de Mars is now exiiibited in the 
Palace dee Beaux Arts. I had the good fortune to visit 
it before it closed and spent a most interesting after- 
noon there. Perhaps my appreciation of the fine arts has 
increased in the past ten years. I hope so. In any case 
the pictures exhibited vrere with one or two exceptions 
inferior to former salons. The sculpture on the other 
hand I found sups rior to that of many previous exliibi- 
tions. Some of the statues altho small, were masterpieces 
notwitiistanding. The influence of the Hew Thought in 
K-an^' of these groups was very easily discernible, and 
HiCet of the work conveyed a worthy idea. That was not 
the case with the vast majority of paintings v;hich were 
nudes badl^r painted and absolutely devoid of any lofty 
conception. If it is true that the life of a people is 
mirrored in their art, then surely Prance is passing 
through a sad crisis. I am inclined to believe however — 



-34- 



that the past Salon does not fairl;/- represent Prench art, 
for there v;ere few works there hy the masters I have 
lmoT?m and the ateliers of Paris must let their students 
try tlieir \7ings . 2o this end each strives to paint a 
picture that will be accept ible to the Jury, and in their 
anxiety to please the3'' suppress themselves, it is essen- 
tial that a student should acquire the technique of his 
art, but that once attained it remains for the artist to 
have a message. Pew of these exhibits had any and the 
canvasses I saw held forth but little hope. 

?o record the charming days I spent in Paris v;4th my 
friends v;ould fill a volune. They vrere eager to see the 
best and enjo;- the treat to its full, but among the most 
enjo;^'able was the day we spent together in the Louvre 
amid such a wealth of art as has rarely been gathered 
together before. liTlaile each of the countries of Europe 
has many examples of its native masters, this gallers^ 
combines some of the best of all schools, and now that 
I have visited all the great galleries in Europe I appre- 
ciate how rich it is in treasure. To describe the mas- 
terpieces alone would require volumes. I leave that for 
others. Suffice it: the latest addition to the collec- 
tion, a series of largo decorations by Rubens depicting 
the principal historic events in the reign of Catharine 
de Medici, is perhaps the most unique exhibition of its 



-35- 



kind in the v/orld. Tlaeso paintings display a "breadtli of 
coniposition, a v;ealth of color and such infinite detail, 
that zhe-j rank among the best of this master's works. 
They are exliibited in a room especially designed for 
them, and are framed in the walls in a most artistic 
manner in oak and gold. It vxould be quite useless to 
guess the sun which has been expended upon this room, but 
it must have been many thousand dollaxs. Such is the 
tribute the French pay to art. 



-36- 




JT-^'- 






- _^.k.UJ-i_LL 



///e/v 







^ 6scait'er du Tkr ^ CAe>e>/. 



gOIirTAIlIBLEU 

After a \7eek of sight seeing one "becomes weary. 
Tlien it is wise to get back to nature and. seek the open. 
■^^e therefore determined to spend a day at Pontainbleu 
where I knew the charm of its forests would delight by 
contrast. Going oy train we were I believe the only 
guests who descended at the Hotel de Prance that morning 
The weather had been rainy when we started but as we dro^'^e 
up to the hotel the clouds rolled by and the sun came 
forth to greet us. It was a welcome sight, for the past 
week had been a rainy one. Being anxious to drive through 
the forest, we therefore ordered our luncheon and after 
arranging for a carriage, started to visit the chateau 
directly opposite the hotel. Like many other palaces the 
impression ons derives from the exterior is not impressive 
But once within, the spaciousness ajid wealth of the apart- 
ments amazes one. Pontainbleu, the favorite home of 
Prancis I. has been the country seat of many other sov- 
ereigns but it was ITapoleon I. who rebuilt and enlarged 
it to its present proportions. Here it was that he loved 
to retire from the cares of state, and here it was that 
he signed his abdication and bade farewell to his arm;-. 

I confess tc little interest in history, especially 
the history that records only wars, and the more remote 



-37- 



1 



these events the less they appeal to me. But in the 
case of impoleon we have a personality whom if alive to- 
day TTOuld find himself in accord \7ith our greatest living 
Ecipire builders. War with him was a means, not an end. 
But alas.' we cannot call upon the gods of war, without 
paying "heir tribute in human lives, and eventually the 
people revolt at the sacrifice and the end for which all 
Y/as spent is lost. 

lilapoleon desired Prance to become the greatest 
covuitry in the world, yet his dreams of Empire vanished 
with him, and since then, no one has arisen to lead 
France to the proud position he desired her to attain. 
However what he failed to achieve by force will be accom- 
plished by a swa:'- of universal justice and the day may 
not be distant when another dreamer shall arise and light 
the path toward Universal Peace and Brotherhood. Such 
were my meditations as I wandered thi-ough the Palace of 
Pontainbleu, and sav; the manj'' regal apartments, the large 
and interesting library, the chapel, and - last but 
not least the tinj' suite where I'apoleon slept and worked 
alternately^ while he conceived his plans of conquest, 
and developed the stupendous public works which to this 
daj*- remain a iuon\iment to his genius. 

Tlie Gardens which surround the palace are extremely 
interesting to one who likes the formal beautification 



-38- 



of nattire. Por tay part simple rolling fields of wheat 
with here and there a clump of fruit trees, and boxwood 
hedges enclosing a mass of hardy per<3nnials please me 
better than these elaborate formal gardens, with their 
trees and hedges trimmed in such fantastic shapes. But 
It is in the forest of Pontainbleu that one may revel in 
the glories of nature. This forest is fourteen miles in 
diameter and covers an immense area for a preserve within 
only thirty miles of Paris . All about it are fertile 
farms and prosperous villages, yet for centuries its 
noble trees have been permitted to remain undisturbed un- 
til today the forest has attained its majority in years 
and beaut3''. I noted one famous beech tree which is known 
to be four hundred years old, this patriarch stands aloft 
among a grove of similar trees all of which are but one 
hundred years or so its junior. The first impression 
of such a forest is truly inspiring, and it is not diffi- 
cult to understand why a band of nature-loving artists 
settled in the village of Barbazon near by and founded 
that wonderful school of landscape painting which has 
since been known as the Barbazon School. Cazin, Corot, 
Daubigny, Diaa , Dupre, Jaque, Rosseau, Millet and Troyon. 
These were the men who made Pontainbleu famous and their 
works will live when the forest they loved so much has 
fallen in decay. 



-39- 



It took fully tv/o hours to drive through the forest 
and then vre only sa'.i the principal points of interest. 
One part hov.'ever interes"::ed me greatly. It v/as a valley 
of rocks a mile or more long. At first I was not in- 
clined to venture in this ciaze of rocks and gorse and 
heather, Lut an old peasant pointed out the path to me 
and alone I entered the valley which I discovered to he 
the "bed of an extinct lake. The drive through the wood- 
land had oeen cool and damp, hut the moment I set foot 
in this lowland the temperature rose twenty degrees, all 
about me were towering rocks and caves with only here 
and there a stretch of white sand to contrast with their 
sombre colorings. The scene was most desolate and would 
have "been uninteresting had not nature adorned every 
earthy nook v/ith purple heather, and a m^/riad of wild 
flov;ers that exhaled their perfume on the balmy air. I 
gathered some of the heather and would gladly have re- 
mained a while to enjoy the solitude, had not a threat- 
ening shovTer warned me to return. This I did and soon 
regained my friends. A half hour later we were at the 
Railway station and had bid good-bye to Pontainbleu and 
its noble forest, the most historic and beautiful in 
all France. 



-40- 



PAREWELL TO PARIS , 

It is incredible liow quickly time flies when new 
scenes continually arrest the attention. In this respect 
Paris more than any city in the world offers such infin- 
ite variety that it is a perpetual kaleidoscope. But our 
nine daj/s were nearing their end. It r/as v;ith real regret 
that we noted this, for now our vays lay in different 
directions. Our young college professor had bought a cir- 
cular ticket before leaving ITew York and his tour took 
him through Qermanj'- to ITaples vriiere two months later he 
embarked for home. I was sorry when he left us for he 
was a charming companion, bright and intelligent, and 
inspired us by his keen desire to see and learn the most 
that could be acquired in so short a time. Our friends 
the lav;^'"er and his wife, decided to take an auto trip in 
the Chateaux district of Tours, and invited us to accom- 
pany them. This I v;ould gladly have done had the two 
young men accompanj'-ing me acceded to the suggestion, 
but they preferred to see the most of Europe in the time 
at their command and the weather being rainy and cold I 
did not oppose their wish, for I knew from experience 
that when rain prevails in the north one can often find 
good weather a day's travel to the east or south. We 
therefore selected a tour that took us through Switzerland 



-41- 



and Genaany to Vienna, thence north to Serlin, then west 
to AL'isterdam, thence to London. Although the route 
chosen v/as not unknown to me I felt certain that I should 
find iz interesting after a lapse of so iria.ny years. 

-0 the young men accompanying me everything was new 
and the route they selected could not have been "better 
chosen had they laid out an educational tour. I douht, 
however, if they appreciated the extent of it until later. 
Distances are not great upon a map, but they become stem 
realities when we have to make them. 

It took several days to conclude our arrangements. 
Tliis finished, we bade good bye to our friends and on 
the morning of the Twelfth of .July took tlie Geneva ex- 

' press from the Gare de Lj-on. This train and the Oriental 

i and ^ice expresses are the best trains in Prance. They 
are coiiposed of large cars somewhat like the Pullmans of 

! this country, but with the corridor on the side. These 
cars are divided into staterooms or compartments accommo- 
dating ei~her two or fouoT' persons v/hich to me is prefer- 
able to the open Pullman coach. Our train had a dining 
car attached and the meals served were as good as one 
could desire. At night it is an imposing sight to ;see 

' one of these fine trains pull inxo a station with its 
electric headliglit blazing the way and its coaches bril- 
ls sjitlj2_lj:^tedjb2:^jtiny inc a ndes c en t^lamPA i then afzer a 



-42- 



short delay a shrill screech of the whistle announces 
its departure and it is off again to its destination. 
It is not always easy to find an unoccupied compartment 
on these express trains, but we were fortunate in this 
respect and in fact our luck seemed to follow us on the 
remainder of the trip. Perhaps this was because we uere 
a party of three (three being a lucky number) or it may 
have been because we waited patiently for the guard to 
place us, and on the principle that patience is rewarded 
he always gave us a compartment to ourselves. 

Once upon our way I v/as able to settle myself com- 
fortably in our compartment and reflect upon the many 
incidents that had passed. And as is often the case the 
mind having gratified its wish, began to look toward the 
future and revel in anticipation. This is the natural 
sequence, and explains v/hy travel makes us forget our 
troubles. We reason from the past to the present and 
from the present to the future. Yet the future is knoxm 
to God alone. We laay realize our anticipations nine 
times out of ten, but on the tenth time some unexpected 
incident occurs and changes all. This is the element of 
the unexpected in which there is often a share of fate. 
Such was my thouglit as we were speeding along at the 
rate of eighty kilometers an hour. Then I asked myself 
the question: "Why this haste?" And the answer came, 

-43- 



to reach our destination that ^ve may revel in ne77 scenes 
and increase our store of knoY;ledge, for that which we 
learn from our experiences in life , is retained in the 
storehouse of the mind, v;hen what v^e have learned from 
books has pa,ss9d awa;'. Tliis resolved, the fatal question 
of all prepoionded itself. But hov/ can one expect to 
learn much of Europe in fort3'--five days (that v/as the 
time we had allotted to recch London)? And the answer 
that was forthcoming v/as , it was almost impossible to do 
so. Tlae best that one can hope to do is to obtain a 
rapid "coup d'oeil" and return later when time is not the 
laaster. The truth is that we usually travel under the 
sway of some compulsion. Tlais maj^ be self-imposed or it 
may be the result of circumstances, and happy indeed is 
he who can go where he listeth and return when he desires, 
Europe is such a store house of interest that years would 
not suffice to know its treasures. Purtherraoro the var- 
iance of customs, manners and thougiit of the different 
nationalioies are so great that it would require volumes 
to record ohem. It is therefore only possible to mention 
such fleeting impressions as the trip made upon myself, 
and with such I must be content. 

Wiile these meditations were flitting through my 
brain, I looked out of the window and saw that we v/ere 
.passing throu^jh,e_ garden jaif. Prance. Everywhere about ua 



-44- 



were beautiful fields of grain, vine7ard3 and orclmrds. 
Through the window catae the odor of nev; mown ha;'' and 
with it the sunshine so long deferred, to make all merry. 
Our route lay tiirough Dijon and Macon to Bourg, a famous 
old tovm not, far from L^'ons. ^len I thought how near I 
was to the town in which I had spent so many liappy d&ya , 
I confess my conscience pricked me for not returning there 
to greet my old friends, but alas.' it v;as not to be for 
the present at least. Some day I hope to return and re- 
pay them roundljr for the man;' kindnesses they extended 
to me during the fourteen 3rears I was in business with 
them. But of tliat ano ni - At the moment we were rolling 
along toward a village called Culoz . This is a railway 
junction not far from Lake Bourge'c, at which point pass- 
engers for Aix les Bains descend \i4iilst our train contin- 
ues on to the frontier of Sviri tzerland. At six o'clock we- 
entered the mountain pass that leads to the frontier sta- 
tion of Bellegarde where it is usual to pass the customs, 
fortunately our baggage was registered through and an 
hour later jxxat as the sun was setting the city and the 
beautiful lake loomed up in the distance. Arriving at 
the station we had little delay in securing our baggage 
and in a few moments v;ere driven to the Hotel National > 
where we were heartily welcomed by the landlord. 



-45- 



GEffiVA. 

I confcjss to a cccret admiration for the Swiss. A 
nation fnat lias retained its solidaritj'- for over five 
hundred years amidst a lot of powerful monarchies must 
have some sterling qualities. And these, Patriotism, 
Courage and Intelligence. Prom my observation the Swiss 
have all these virtues and the additional ones of enter- 
prise, thrift and sobriety. A class of hardy mountain- 
eers they thrive v/here other people would perish. Their 
realm tourers above blue lakes and touches the clouds with 
its snow capped peaks. Its valleys everywhere are culti- 
vated and the hillsides flourish with vineyards, grain 
and clover. Above the cultivated land rise forests of 
spruce, pine and beech, then higiier still protrude a 
barrier of granite rocks whose lofty summits are crowned 
with eternal snows. It is natural, therefore, that such 
a rugged environiiient should breed a hardj'- race, and in 
this conflict of man with nature for a sustenance, in- 
telligence and endurance are absolutely necessary. I be- 
lieve that Chesterton has said that intellectuallj'- the 
Swiss are nowhere. They are merely peasants, shop keepers 
and hotel proprietors. But the land which has produced 
a Rousseau and a Calvin and viras able to protect and en- 
courage such geniuses as Voltaire and Wagner cannot be 



-46- 




^I^AT 



Qeneye 



I classed as unintellectual. Man^ of the brainiest men of 
all countries sought refuge here v/hen revolution rent 

Europe in twain and their influence still endures. If it 

i 

I is true as ITapoleon asserted, that the more languages one 

can speak, the more is he a man, then the Sv/iss take the 
palm. Prench is the language most favored, hut German 
and English are nox7 as current, and it is quite a common 
occurrence to find those who speak Italian as well. I 
liave witnessed a meeting of Pranctireurs (sharp shooters) 
conducted successively'' in these four languages, where 
every one present understood the language of the others. 
I doubt if this could occur anywhere else in the world. 

The city of Geneva is a very imposing and important 
onec It is situated at the foot of Lake Leman whose 
waters are about 1100 feet above sea level. The city is 
divided into two parts by the river Rhone, which finds 
its source in the lake and its rapid current is apanned 
by many imposing bridges. In the distance rise the Alps 
from whose snow-capped peaks Mount Elanc looms up majes- 
tically. On the opposite side are the Jura mountains 
and from the quaj^- one may see the beautiful blue water 
of the lake reaching out to touch the shores of Montreux, 
Ville Ifeuve and Bouvret many miles away. The city claims 
a population of 115,000 inhabitants and as is well kno\ina 
has been for years the centre of the watch-making industry 



-47- 



in Europe. To this day the finest watches and chrono- 
meters are still made there and it is likely to hold 
this reputation for years to cone. Owing to its indus- 
tries and also its superb location and cliinate Geneva has 
grovm greatly in the past decade. It can boast of a 
University, a superb Library, founded by Calvin, contain- 
ing 150,000 volumes; a school of Chemistry, one of Busi- 
ness, another of Pine Arts and a Conservator;'- of Music. 
The tovra has iaa.ny rich inhabitants and is much frequented 
by English and American families who prefer to educate 
their children here. During the vrinter season they enjoy 
the opera and their Opera House is the prettiest I have 
seen in any city, Paris excepted. At etated seasons a 
touring company of the Comedy Prancaise of Paris also 
gives c repert:oire of their plays and the critical knowl- 
edge of the audiences convinces me that the best is not 
too good for the residents. I regret to saj'" that recent 
ly G, Casino has been built on the riva not far from the 
national Hotel. It is a splendid affair, but, like all 
these institutions now so common in Europe, is a menace 
to society for the reason that gambling Is permitted. 
l^iile the limit here is only five francs on the turn of 
the wheel, the game nevertheless lures many thoughtless 
people who become fascinated by the hazard and Aix or 
Monte Carlo soon denude them of their savings. 



-48- 



fortunately such a fine hotel as the National has so many 
attractions of its o^m that one nnay "be quite content to 
spend the evenings there. Located on the riva it is 
ViTithin a sxone's throve of the lake, and is hidden from 
the driveway that follows the shore by a pretty park in 
which there are the rarest of trees and flowers ■• one of 
the beeches and also a noble cedar of Lebanon there I am 
sure wore one hundred ^.'-ears old, the others had been 
planted not less than fifty ^'■ears ago and were in their 
prime. An imposing terrace overlooks the driveway and 
the lake, and at night when the table d'hote is over the 
guests sit in this natural bower sipping their coffee 
v/hilst the orchestra of the hotel lure them into dreaca- 
land with its entrancing music. The contrast between 
this prettj*- scene and the confusion of a great city like 
Paris may well be imagined. 

There are many interesting buildings and monuments 
in Geneva, but time only permitted me to view the Cathe- 
dral of St. Peter which crowns a hill in the old part of 
the tovm. This site is historic having had a pagan 
temple dedicated to Apollo built there in the year 170 A.D 
The present church is now the shrine of faithful Protes- 
tants and its interior is very imposing. I cannot con- 
clude my notes on Geneva without mentioning the superb 
monument recently erected to Charles II. of Brunswick who 



-49- 



left his v/hole fortune to the city, Tliis monuEient or 
mausoleum is designed after the tomb of Can Signorio 
della Soala's tomb at Verona, Italy, and cost more than 
a uillion francs. It is located on the riva not far 
fron the Casino where its Gothic design contrasts sti-ong-' 
ly v;ith the modern Ecole dos 3eau:c Arts architecture 
which surrounds it. It is a wortliy monument to a great 
and good man and as such must inspire everyone vdao sees 
it. 



-50- 



LAKE mCAiT 



It was a beautiful morning on the fifteenth of 
July when v/e went on boa.rd the Steamer Lausanne for a 
trip up the lake to our next resting place, Uontreux. 
Arriving an half hour "before the departure of the boat 
I load an opportunity to inspect this superb vessel, v;hich 
•but recently had made her maiden trip, and represents 
the latest development of lake navigation. I confess to 
great interest in yachts and yachting, not because it is 
a fashionable sport, but because it is the most hardy 
and manly of them all and takes one out into the open 
with nature. It gave me a thrill of pleasure therefore 
to look at the Lausanne as she lay alongside the quay, 
the blue waters of the lake sportively lapping her fresh- 
ly painted hull, and, as I noted her graceful sheer, the 
rake of her mast and smoke stack, I recognized at once 
that she had been designed bjr a yachtsman. She was per- 
haps 300 feet long by 55 feet wide and like all European 
lake steamers that are propelled by paddle wheels, has 
little or no overhang to the main deck except near the 
paddle boxes. l*he cabins extended aft two thirds the 
length of the vessel. This gives a promenade deck above 



-51- 



about 200 feet long broken only by the pilot house, cliart 
rooia and stairway. It is on this deck the first class 
passengers congregate and here they taay dine if they de- 
sire, whilst an excellent orchestra beguiles the hours 
away. If one is weary or sad I know of no more deliglit- 
ful antidote than a trip on one of these steamers. During 
the season they are frequented by tourists of all nation- 
alities, among whom I have often noted many Russians of 
noble fanilies as v/ell aa English, and Americans who de- 
liglit in this means of transportation. Our steamer, an 
express boat, was reputed to be one of the swiftest of 
the line, being propelled by compound inclined recipro- 
cating engines which pushed her through the water at 16 
knots an hour. Hot long therefore, aftor we departed 
that I noted the castle of ITyon standing out majestically 
pif)on an elevation on the Swiss shore. The country here- 
abouts is very fertile and of a rolling character that 
adapts «bit to cultivation. Prom ITyon our course lay 
across "the lake to Thonon les Bains, where I saw the old 
feudal ccstle of Vufflens located above the tovm of 
Llor^ues on the opposite shore, situated amid verdant 
fields and noble forests. 

Tlionon les Bains is situated on le cote Savoyard of 
the lake is a pretty town and has a population of 6000. 
AiBong its buildings are many fine hotels and the town is 

-52- 



the Sous prefecture of Haute Savoy. 

Evjan Les Bains is located alsout five milea further 
up the lake on the saine side, and is nov; a renovmsd v/ater- 
ing resort. It is here that the celetraoed Evian spring 
was discovered in the seventeenth century, and as it is 
now the roost popular table v/ater in Europe, tlae revenue 
derived from its sale laust be enoraous. 

Proci Evian les Baine we recrossed the lake to Ouchy 
which is the port of Lausanne^, one of the fairest resi- 
dential tovms of Switzerland, At present it is the most 
important of the chain of tovms called the Bernes Riviera 
whicih extend up the lake ae far as Territet. Being a 
universit;/ town it has acquired a good reputation for its 
schools and colleges, and many English and American fam- 
ilies live there throughout the year. It supports a 
theatre, and during the winter a eymphony orchestra give 
weekly classical co;icerts to i'^s people. The next tovm 
of importance is that of Vcvej", five miles north. This 
' is a very aristocratic resort and in character much re- 
sembles Lausanne^ 



-53- 



MOIJTREUX 

After nan:' stops at sns.ller tovms we readied our 
destination, Hontreux, at two o'clock, and ^ere quickly 
driven to the Palace Hotel, tlie best hostelry in the 
place. This Bernese riviera is little but a chain of 
hotels and pensions located upon the mountain side over- 
looking the lake ^rith the Alps in the distance. Les 
Dents du Uidi being at the head of the lake and plainly 
visible from this shore. 

Being built on the hill side our hotel was a most 
imposing bit of architecture, and rose up from the inc.in 
thoroughfare xaany stories, the first two stories being 
off set BO that a terrace 75 ft. wide by 200 feet long 
occupied the roof, whilst the lower part is given to 
stores and shops of all kind. 

As it happened we arrived at a time when liiany tour- 
ist parties were frequenting this resort. All was there-: 
fore movoifient and gaiety, and at dinner time the magni- 
ficent dining hall -.rns filled to its capacity and the 
v/aiters, of which there seemed to be an army, were kept 
busy attending tho guests. At present the hotels gener- 
ally throughout Europe have discarded the large tables 



-54- 







G/^///o 



ro 



seating often 150 or more, for cainy sriiall ones acooimno- 
dating parties of two, four or eight persons. This has 
certain advantages "but the spirit and sociability of the 
old regime has departed. I regret this for I have made 
many good friends under the old system, and to one trav- 
eling alone this is very agreeable. However certain of 
the old forms are still retained. The waiters under the 
supervision of the maitre de 1 'hotel are still called to 
the serving room as each course is prepared and pass out. 
into the dining hall at a given signal. The effect of 
this is very imposing and they seem extremely proud of 
the attention they attract. Tftien the dessert is' served 
an electric gong announces the conclusion of the service"; 
then the doors are throvm open and the strains of an 
orchestra upon the terrace, lures the guests there for 
their coffee and segars . It was quite late that evening 
when our party finished dinner and when v;e arrived upon 
the terrace, I was amazed to find it lighted by thousands 
of electric lanips of all colors, clustered about in the 
foliage and upon electroliers. The orchestra occupied a 
dias not far from the exit of the dining hall and as v;e 
passed out the bewitching strains of Le Valse Bleue made 
us feel the merriment that pervaded the assemblage. It 
happened that we were obliged to seek a table at the ex- 
treme end of the terrace, from v/hich vantage point we 



-55- 



could look upon the ontrancing scene. The sun had set, 
tut the twilight still lingered and the curvalous clouds 
T/hich during the day, had hung about the movintain peaks 
nov7 floated higli above them and reflected a gentle radi- 
ance upon the peaceful v/aters of the lake. The soft 
south wind v/hich had blo\7n all day, had died a'jay; not 
even a breath v/as stirring, and like spectators at the 
opera v:e sat av/aiting the next denoueiiient . For a v/hile 
Liy attention was attracted to three beautiful Italian 
girls seated at a table near ine. They were evidently sis- 
ters and vrere in a nerry inood, their ciother having left 
then alone for a mouent, thinking of course her dears 
•■."ere quite safe in such a throng of foreigners. How 
little she knew her pets mr.y be iinagined by an incident 
that happened a laoment later. I had finished ii^y coffee 
and was lighting my cigarette v;hen a piece of paper 
fomed like a dart, fell at my feet. I pn,id no atten- 
tion to it, but an intuition told me that it was intend- 
ed for the young ladies, liy nattiral impulse was to 
pick it up and hand it to them. But prudence reminded 
me of the man \iiio made a million dollars hy attending 
to his ovm business, and I desisted. I kept my eye open 
to wincl-jard however and a moment later saw a young 
Frenchman laake another dart and v.'ri"oe something upon it. 
T-^atching me Intemly he threw the missive over my head 

-56- 



and landed it upon the ta"ble of the trio, v;here it wcs 
instantly seized and read. Then the yov.rxg ladies put 
their heads together in consultation and not long after- 
I sav; theiQ enter the grand salon where the 2''0ung gallant 
had preceded them. Doubtless they found some mutual 
friend to introduce him to their mother who quite uncon- 
iBCioiis of wha,t had happened vrould present them to her 
loving daughters. Thus are v;e often deceived by our own* 

It was twelve o'clock when the orchestra played its 
final huuber and the guests departed. Instantly on the 
stroke of the hour the electric lights were ejctinguished 
ismd as my friends retired I sat alone beneath the canopy 
of heaven and v/atched the moon rise slowlj'- on the horizon. 
Por a while I was lost in meditation when a waiter ap- 
proached me and advised me to enter the hotel, warning me 
of the morning chill which often settles down from the 
mountains at an early hour. I paid little attention to 
his advice but continued in my reverie until one p.m. when 
I sought my bed. Two days later I was taken ill with tlae 
grippe, the result of this indiscretion. Such are the 
vagaries of Swiss climate. 

Montreux has become a favorite winter resort within 
recent jrears owing to the excellence of its hotels and 
its temperate climate. Pifty years ago there were but 
three little villages here surrounded by renowned 



-57- 



vineyards. Today the shores and mountain sides are occu- 
pied hy iioany handsome ■buildings extending each year 
further and further up the mountain. There are good 
reasons v/hy this tovm and its neighboring villages extend- 
ir.g frc-j Trerriret to Lausanne should be called the 
VaudoisG lUviera. The conditions which favor the growth 
of the grape, favor also the people of temperate climes, I 
and as the mountains on this side of the lake are exposed 
to the southern sun, and their height is so great that the 
northern winter^- blasts pass directly over them the cli- 
mate is versr temperate. It is said tlaat one may pick 
roses in Ilontreux in the morning and coast 6n the snow- 
clad mountain-sides above in the afternoon. However 
fanciful this maj'- be, exotic plants like the palm and 
pommegranate flourish here the year round. 

The many villages and towns composing this Vaudoise 
Riviera are all connected by a shore road upon which 
there is an electric tram running at short interval, but 
the co/rimunication by boat is much to be preferred. \Ie 
visited the Castle of Chillon on our first day and ■.;.-.ro 
delighted to sea this historic monument 30 well cared . 
lor by the state. Its location on the lake is ideal> and! 
its historj'' interesting, but it is due to the poet Syron, i 
'.Those tale of the Prisoner of Chillon has immortalized 
the site, that the castle has become renovmed. Su3h is 



-58- 



t' 







Jjz3 eienta c^k- Af/t:t, 



the power of v;orda to stimulate the it'iagination. 



CAUX. 

If the Swiss are great mountain cliuibers, they are 
also great engineers. Today their railways like their 
intrepid mountaineers cliiati the most daring peaks. It 
is certainly a curious sensation to enter the electric 
train that mounts froia Montreux to Gaux and feel it leave 
the lerrel and mount up, up, up through narrow corkscrev/ 
tunnels of limestone rock, then up, througli fields and 
vineyard until the timber line is reached, and at last 
reach the terrace of Caux 3,300 feet above the lake. By 
TJhat mighty pov/er this is accomplished God alone can ex- 
plain. I looked at the trolley v/ire and tlien at the 
sturdy little electric locomotive with its train of cars, 
and decided that the strength of the trolley wire could 
not support the traction strain of the cars even on a ten 
percent grade, yet here was a train v^eighing many, many 
tons, mounting grades of twent;r and thirty per cent with 
the greatest ease. Surely this is a modern miracle; but 
alas.* so common lias become the use of electricity, that 
we no longer marvol at its wonders and rarely contemplate 
the maker of all things who has endowed us v/ith such 



-59- 



priceless gifts. It v;ould "be difficult to describe tlie 
sensation the vie\7 froia the terrace of Ca^xc created in 
me. At first it ',ms a feeling of av/e , as I looked dovm 
from the giddy height upon the placid lake T/here steam- 
ers like the Lausanne v;ere but specks upon its mirrored 
surface. But as I raised lijv eyes and let them wander 
over the ranges of the Alps, v:hich like an undulating 
sea sY/ept tlie horizon I began to appreciate that I had 
ascended an Ol^rmpus e.nd. was in the realm of the gods. A 
tlirill of exultation swept over tie as I gc^ed upon this 
mighty panorama, then as our thoughts are often diverted 
from meditation to action "oy some trivial incident, I 
happened to turn about and look up at zhe foreboding 
cliffs of the Rocher de Uaye 3000 feet above, and an 
uncontrollable desire came upon me to make the ascent; 
yet my saner judg-iient warned me not to attempt it, for 
there is an exliilaration in these altitudes that spurs 
one on to venturesome feats only to meet with fatigue 
and disappointment afterward. It is because of its stim- 
ulating climate that Caux has become such a favorite re- 
sort for those suffering from pulmonary diseases. Many 
come here during the season and while inany are cured, the 
white plague doubtless claims its victims in the majority 
of cases. 

I was greatly interested in the Toboggan Garage of 



-60- 



the hotels situated in Caux. This is a ver:" large build- 
ing with man:' shelves for storing the sleighs. There 
were over 350 scored there \7hen I visited it, the xaajori- 
t;r of these "being large bob-sledges, capable of carrying 
6 or 8 persons v/ith the most approved steering gear and 
brakes. A glance at this array of sleighs gave me a 
better idea of Caux as a winter resort tlaan reams of ad- 
vertising could have done. Some day I hope I may return 
and experience this exliilarating sport, which in m;r 
youth held such a lure for me. After a cup of tea and 
another look at the beautiful panorama we descended to 
Montreux. 

As it v/as late v:hen v/e arrived at the Hotel and as 
v/e had decided to continue our journey on "che morrow as 
far as Intorlaken, I retired early to bed. I cannot now 
recall how long I lay in slumber land, I only remember 
that when I av/oke the church bells were tolling and the 
sun came peeping through my casement v.'indow. It was 
Sunday the iVtli of July, a day made for peace and praj'-er, 
yet we v/era to continue traveling as though pursued by 
JTomesis. I knew v/e were justified hov/ever for time hath 
fleeting wings and our journey v/as a long one. After 
pa;-ing our bill, which v/as the smallest we had yet re- 
ceived, v/e sent our baggage forward by Grande Vitesse and 
took an electric trolley road for the journey over the 

-61- 



Zv.'-eiziiaiaen pass to Interlaken. 



'HE STTEIZTIHSl^ PAFS. 



Arriving at the station ne found oiix train of tiny 
cars :aade up and awaiting tixe signal to depart. Five 
coaches coiAposed the train with a most coquettish little 
dining car attached in the rear. The route lay half way 
up the i-iountain to Caujc then skirted tlie mountain side 
until finally at an altitude of 3000 foet we entered the 
Zveiziiaiaen Pass^ where a surprise was in store for us; 
Altho I had never crossed this pass, yet it was, and 
still is, a higliway to Interlaken, and I was therefore 
unprepared for the extraordinary change in scene v:hich 
one meet-s in such a short journej-. All about us lay 
rocky peaks jutting up from verdant fields of clover. 
Above ohese neadov/s , rise forests of spruce and fir, v/ith 
here and there a tiass of snow which had been drifted by 
the winter -jinds into the rocky valleys which compose 
the suijnits. Tlisre was endless quantities of sncv/ every- 
v/here in sight, yet, (and thrls is the curicas anomaly), 
the air was as balmy as a sumn'Sr da^y could be. Up and 
down this tortuous pass lay fai'miiousos , barns and chalets, 
with a village dotted here and there for variety. 



-62- 



InnuK^era'ble pensions (iDoarding houses) v/ere visible at 
every station and all were, or at least appeared to "be 
well filled. 

I cannot imagine a more deliglitful or less expensive 
country in i)7hich to spend a vacation, for liere 5'ou are 
in the home of the mountaineers the people who have made 
Svritzerland great, not "bjr arts of war. Tour "by the arts of 
peace. 

It look several hours to cross this pass, for our 
train did not proceed at more than ten miles an hour, 
and often v/ent so slov;ly that one could have descended 
without difficultj'-. I was content, however, for the 
scene was new to me and I \7DUld gladljr have remained 

there Iiad that been possible. But alas, we were ticketed 

I 

! through and Interlaken was our destination. 



-63- 



IITTERLA I^U 

Interlaken is situated upon a narrov; strip of land 
"betueen Iiake Thun and Lake Brienze. In olden times it 
vxas customary to go from Geneva to Berne and from Berne 
to Thun. Tliis was the old coach route and is noi;? the 
rxi^r.7a;;' for the railv/ay. Prom Thun village one then pro- 
ceeded oy "boat to Interlaken, "but our route over the 
Zweiziiauen proved shorter and took us through the village 
of that name, to Spies, the terminus of the electric road 
Here xre changed to the Geneva Berne Railway and reached 
Interlaken "b;/- skirting the Lake of Thun. 

At three o'clock on Sunday afternoon T;e arrived and 
-7ere driven to the Hotel Victoria, one of the oldest and 
"best hotels in the place. The journey over the mountains 
had been interesting, hut a feeling of lassitude now c?jne 
upon me and after a hath I retired early to "bed. That 
nigiit I dreciij- of ghosts and goblins and all manner of 
uncanny things, and awaked the next morning in a high 
fever, to find that the "grippe devil" had me in his 
grasp. I would not mention this incident, for the grippe 
is such an ordinary occurrence now~a-da;'"s as to be comtrion- 
place, but this same thing imd happened to me on a former 



•64- 



— "^^ . p 







l^^^T, 









tl« In. 






^;^^ mil lit I m 





visit here, and I mention it in order to warn otliera 
from viae vagaries of Sv/iss climate. Owing to its proxi- 
mitv to the great mountain ranges, v/here snows eternally 
fall, Interlaken is invaidated throughout the summer "by 
frequent rains. I have often v/atched it snowing on the 
Jungfrau and raining in Interlaken, while on the opposite 
side of the valley the sun would be briglitly shining, 
Indeed I remember on my last trip paj^ing a visit to the 
Grundelv/ald glacier and returning drenched to the skin, 
for v/hich indiscretion I paid Toy a severe cold that laid 
me up for a week. Portunately I had reached the village 
of Thun that day and found an excellent hotel there, 

I called the Thunerhof where I was extremely comfortable, 
v/ith medical advice at hand, but it is not pleasant to 
have one's vacation interrupted in this May and I advise 

j others to be careful and avoid such experiences. 

j I?or the next two days I v;as confined to my room, but 
true to his promise the fine little house physician v/hose 
namt^ I have forgotten, had oy the use of sedatives and 
anti-pyritics, so reduced any fever that on the third dajr 
I was able to proceed. Consequently I sav; little of 
Interlaken, and the trip we had planned to Eisengletscher 
was abandoned. 

Eigengletcher is the last station of the nev/ Jungfrau 
railv^aji- which v;ill, when completed, be the most wonderful 



-65- 



scenic railuay in the world. It is quite impossible i 
for one v;lio lias never visited this countr;'' to imagine 

the daring of this engineering feat. I can onl;'- suggest 

I 

jit. Imagine then - a mountain peak rising majesticallsr 
from a range of smaller ones, *oo a heiglit of 12,500 feet, 
the entire range covered ',7ith heavy snovirs and glaciers 
centuries old. Amid them all the Jungfrau toi/ers as a 
monarch of the forest looms above the sailings beneath 

i 

its limbs; so near at hand it seems that if one had an 
[aeroplane he might alight upon its summit in a i'ev7 moments' 
[flight; some day I expject this v/ill be accomplished; at i 
present there is only one vr&y to do so. One must pro- j 
j ceed from Eisengletcher , (the present terminus of the ] 
Jungfrau-cogroad) , across numberless glaciers and valleys 
filled with snow and ice until some "arrete" or crest of 
protruding rocks is found, then as a chamois leaps from 
rock to rock the mountain climbers crav;l from point to 
point until the;- reach the solid snows upon the summit. 

Every year some one is lost in these ascents, and by 
a curious fatalit^j- our present visit v;as to be made mem- 
I orable by the most shocking accident that has ever occurred 
j in this vicinit;/-. A party of nine men had gathered at 

j Eisengletcher awaiting a favorable moment to venture upon 

i j 

the glacier. For three da3''s the;- had been storm-bound. 

I Wrestling under the restraint, the ports'- decided to make 



-66- 



the attempt on the fourth day, the \7eather then liaving 
cleared. In the party there were tvro Englislnnen and 
seven of the hardiest Swiss guides. Tliey had set out 
and had just preceded upon the glacier, v/hen an avalanche 
of snov: fell froci above crushing and burying them in 
its wad descent. It is supposed that the vibration 
caused loy the tramping of the party upon the glacier had 
loosened the snov/s above them and brought the mass 
crashing down to become their tomb. Be that as it may, 
only tv/o were recovered alive, and these poor fellows 
(two of the guides) T/ere maimed for life. Such is the 
price that the Jungfrau exacts from those who brave its 
summit. ¥ith this sligiat suggestion of the dangers of 
the Jungfrau, I think one can better understand v/hat a 
colossal engineering feat the new electric road i/ill be. 
It is estimated that it will require tliree jrears more to 
complete the tunnels that lead under the glaciers to where 
the perpendicular peak ascends. Whom, this is finished 
and an electric elevator installed in a './ell, in the 
heart of the peak, one raa;'- then mount to the very pinnac- 
le of -he Jungfrau and in pride and awe contemplate the 
mastery of n»an over nature. 

Interlaken is so v;ell known that a description of 
it is hardly necessai-y. It is a town of about 15,000 in- 
habitants all of whom appear to be interested directly or 



-67- 



indirectl7 in the vast tourist travel that passes through 
their village. Having grovm up ahout a hii^way that con- 
nected the two lakes, the tovm is therefore very long 
and narrov;. It has j:aany handsome hotels and shops of all 
kinds "built along the thoroughfare, and a Casino to lure 
the idle tourist. Directly in front of the Victoria i 
Hotel, there is an open park, from which site one roav- 
look in wonder at the Jungfrau, while listening to the 
strains of distant lausic. This is fascinating for a 
while, and to one who never knew the to\Tn of old, its 
present modernity maj^ prove ver3^ attractive. But to me 
the simplicitjr of the old regime v;as far to "be preferred. 
In those stage coach daj-'s, the hotels v/ere smaller and 
more sociable, nor was one then obliged to don evening 
dress for dinner, moreover the repast 7;as then served by 
prettj*- Sv;iss maidens decked out in their native costumes, 
and the orchestra of native players rendered the folk 
songs of their country. Todaj'- all that is changed, the 
waiters v/ear dress suits so that one cannot distinguish 
tiiem from the guests, and the orchestra chooses its 
selections according to the nationality of its patrons. 
The last number I remember hearing was called "Love Me 
And The ^orld Is Mine", a beautiful song artistically 
rendered, but oh.' ho\.' futile this, to the lonely wanderer 
'.:ho more than half ill must listen to a melody that 

•68- 



reminds liim of friends far away, at hoiae and has no re- 
lation whatever oo the environment he is in. 



LAKE BRIMZ 

A thunder storixi vras threatening when we took our 
"baggage on board the steamer for Briena, rAiich is the 
station for the Brunig Pass Railway. Arriving on board 
at eleven o'clock in the morning on July the 20th, v/e 
were shortly afterward coinfortably settled at luncheon 
in tlie salon of the steaiaer, when a crash of thunder an- 
nounced the coming storm. A moment later it became as 
dark as night and before we had fairly got underway the 
rain descended in torrents. Por the next hour our little 
boat plowed through the most vicious thunder storm I have 
ever witnessed in these parts. After a little while we 
dre\7 in to a tiny dock built upon a ledge of rocks that 
lifted themselves up precipitouslj'- from out the lake. 
Thinking that the Captain was unwilling to proceed in the 
storm, I asked why we had stopped at such a God-forsaken 
place and was told that about a hundred feet above there 
•war- a fine hotel built upon a plateau of the ledge. In 
vain I tried ^o see the building, which the torrents of 
rain shut out from view. But that it is there I am 



-69- 



I 



certain, though I inagine the patrons, like the ChEuiiois, 
nust he very nimhle to get about. 

Lake Brienz is remarkahle for the precipitous cliffs 
by v;hich it is surrounded. It is in effect, c rift in 
the mountain chain, whose chasii has been filled by the 
v/aters of melting snov;s . Although not large it is ex- 
tremely picturesque, and like our Lake George, has been a 
highv;ay for travelers froiri ancient tines. 

It v/as twelve o'clock when he had finished luncheon 
and I was quietljr enjoying a segar r/hen a toot of the 
whistle announced our approach to Brienz, the head of 
the Lake, As the rain had ceased I went out upon the 
deck and behld a transformation scene the like of which 
I ha,ve never v/itnessed before. The air being literally 
saturated v;ith noisture a heavy fog hung over the lake 
like a miglity pall. Very, ybtj sloxjly this mist ascend- 
ed until it reached only a few feet above the snioke 
stack of our steamer, there it seemed to rest for a 
while until we, the audience, could scan the shores and 
get our bearings. Per a v;hile our boat proceeded 
thus slowljr along a cliff of lime stone rocks rising 
perpendicularly from the lake, when, in an instant, a 
glow of the mist, converted the cliffs of neutral gray, 
into lapus-lasuli, one of the rarest forms of blue. The 
llglit seemed so mystical and unreal that I was at a loss 



-70- 



t 



to account for it, but like ny friends, who also wit- 
; nessed the effect, xje were too much occupied in adniring 

its 'beaut^'- to analyze the cause. A little further on a 

i 

] raging cataract came tearing dovra the cliffs , its blue 

j 

j T/aters turning to snov; v;hixe foam as t?iey rushed into the 
j lake. The contrast of this white water with the "blue of 
1 the cliffs v/as most beaut if ul. But this was onlir a trifle 

' in comparison with v/hat was still to come. As it had 

i 

"been many years since I had been here, I could not re- 
member the location of Brienz. However my curiosity was 
satisfied a few moments later when the curtain of fog 
which had been hanging overhead gradually lifted and dis- 
played a beautiful valley many miles in length extending 
far beyond Meiringen to the great Alp chain that forms 
the barrier between Switzerland and Italy. And Brienz, 
tiny little Brienz, l&zr peacefully before us not half a 
Mile away. Surelj-, Switzerland is a land of theatrical 
surprises. An artist's paradise it has always been, and, 
not until electric signs shall have disfigured its moun- 
tain sides and noisy factories replaced its thriving 
farms, will its pastoral charm and prestine grandeur have 

I 

passed away. God grant that day iriaj'- never come. 



I 



-71- 



THE BEUITIg PASS, 

In olclen ~lme the trip froia Erienze to Lucerne was 
Eiacle "dv diligence. I can remember well the days v/hen the 
stately and picturesque vehicle drawn by eight po'.7erful 
horses was in use and it seems but yesterday that I made 
jny first trip, an all daj^- journey then, but incomparably 
more attractive than the present one by cog road. Our 
journey over the pass took us past Lake Sarnen to the 
village of Sarnen, from thence to Alpnachstad the head of 
Lake Lucerne v&ieve if one v;ishes thej-" may take the boat 
to Lucerne, We preferred however to continue on by rail, 
and in a half hour or more reached Lucerne at four 
o'clock in the af"cernoon. After a short delay we were 
driven up to the Palace Hotel, a new end stately building 
located at the extreiae snd of the promenade, whore com- 
fortable rooms were furnished us and quite content we 
I 
1 

'determined here to await our friends the lawj^-er and. his 
wife who were to pass througli Lucerne on their way down 
the Rlaine , 



-72- 



V 



\ 



^ 







^'^ ?w , 



uze r/-v 



LUCEPJIE 

Because of its stragetic position, lying in the 
heart of a picturesque countrj"- approachable from all 
points North, East, South and West, Lucerne has become the 
Metropolis of the European tourist. Prom Lake Constance 
and Zurich, from Basel and Olten, froia Geneva and Berne, 
Railways converge at this point, whilst the laJce steam- 
ers bring tourists from the Lake Cantons ancL the St. 
Gothard Railway piercing the Alps transports its quota of 
I travelers from the Italian lakes and points further south. 

I It is here that the tourists of all nationalities congre- 

! 
gate during the summer, and it is therefore the most like- 

1 ly place to meet friends or acquaintances who are trav- 

I eling abroad. 

I 

I Although Lucerne is a much smaller to^vn than Geneva 

or Zurich its summer population is large and its transient 

trade enormous. The hotels and shops consequently do a 

thriving business, and the banking and exchange done here 

would surprise one who has never before visited such 

resort. I had occasion to make a draft on my letter of 

credit the day after I arrived, and although I reached 

the bank at 9.30 in the morning the establisliment was 



-73- 



cro'.7d.ed ^o the doors. Soine \7ere purchasing JLetters of 
credits, others vvere making drafts on their credits t^a 
others s'ill, exchanging foreign money for SvTiss, Prencli^ 
Genrir.n, Austrian or Italian. It r/as the busiest banking 
house I had seen on my trip and the expe rience gave me 
an excellent object lesson in the importance of foreign 
travel as a means of exchange. 

Lucerne is too well kno'iTn to require a lengthy de- 
scription fron me I will therefore onlj'- mention that 
originally it was a fishing village and that only fifty 
years ago its advantages for tourists became knovra, 
since which time the to\7n has grown until today it may 
j boast of the most beautiful hotels in Europe. The town 
has no mr^ufact^rieo to mar it, and its streets and 
parks are so well maintained that fhey are a deliglit 
to the stranger. It is therefore, essentially a pleas- 
ure resort from which one laay make innumerable excur- 
sions and where during the season one may also have the 
advantage of ample societir. Like Geneva the town is 
divided into two parts by a river. The name of this 
river is the Russe, and is crossed diagonally by a very 
famous wooden bridge called the Ilapellbrtlcke. This 
bridge was built in the year 1333 v;hen all the houses 
of the town were built of wood, the toxm being then 
called the vrooden stork's nest. In the middle of the 



-74- 



river and at the side of the "bridge stands an octagonal 
tower called the Wassertunn, said to have been the an- 
cient treasurjr of the town and is still the store house 
of its municipal archives. This tower is onl^ one of 
many similar towers, which with the ancient wall foriaed 
the fortifications of the town. I think the most promi- 
nent "building as one approaches the to\'m from the lake 
is the Kofkirche of St. Leodegar which stands upon a 
slight plateau above the town, its graceful towers form- 
ing a landmark visible for manj'' miles. This is the prin- 
cipal Catholic Church of the town and it is well worth a 
visit. I know of no niore deceiving structure than this. 
Its simple lines are those of a village church but its 
proportions those of a cathedral. Indeed it is not un- 
til one mounts the steps approaching the facade and then 
looks up at the delicate tapering spires that an idea 

of its great size can be obtained. If one has a love for 

i 
music it is very interesting to attend -che afternoon 

concerts which are given here, and listen to the grand 

organ, which is one of the oldest and most famous instru- 

i 

ments in Europe. But enough of general information; 
there is something vastly more important than this. And 
he who has not learned it, will never write entertain- 
ingl;'- of any country. 

Character is the flower of a nation as it is also 

-75- 



of the individual and i" is in this stud;- that we dis- 
cover the greatest pleasure in travel. Desiring there- 
fore to find a place not frequen'oed by tourists, I r:an- 
dered one evening in a part of the to'.7n reraote from the 
riva ai:id its splendid hotels and had reached a suxniuer 
garden near the nails, v/hen hearing the livel;' strains 
' of an orchestra, I entered. To xa*- surprise I found the 
place crowded. It was necessary for me to cross tiie open 
court and seek a tahle at the opposite side from the en- 
trance. As I passed tahle after table, I noted that all 

were either Germans or native Sv/iss, who, according to 

j 

I their custom, come to such resorts to sip their coffee 

j or drink their beer and listen to the music. The wait- 
resses were all young girls attired in the costumes of 
their cantons, each having some distinctive note of in- 
dividuality. The young girl who attended the table at 
v.'hich I had seated myself v/as dressed in the typical 
black velvet bodice of the Swiss, laced fore and aft, 
and wore a stunning apron of blue brocaded silk. Ker 
hair was simply dressed and tied witii a black silk rib- 
bon v/hich was gathered in a large bow upon tiie top of 
her head. VTlien she approached I addressed her in Trencli 
and ordered a glass of beer, which she brouglat in a 
tall fluted glass. I knew from her accent that she was 
not from the French cantons, and tliis was confirmed a 
moment later when she addressed a gentleman at an 



-76- 



] adjoining table in Greman. I tlien deuenained to see if 
she could speak English, and ordering another glass of 
! beer addressed her in j:i"j;- native tongue. Immediately her 

I face brightened and she made bold to reply, but alas.* 

i 

I her vocabulary soon deserted her. After a somewliat 

j futile effort she continued in French and being called 
I 
elsewhere excused herself in as graceful a manner as if 

she had been a lady born. Well a oynic may say, what 

\ of it. S2ie was only a waitress and in a beer garden at 

; that. True, my gentle cynic, she was a waitress and a 

pretty one too. But let me tell j'-ou this, - she was 

well educated, her manners were not those of one aping 

a lady, but were the result of inborn gentleness and 

goodness, the certain result of character. Oh, you may 

laugh if you v;ish, but character is an open book to 

some. To others it is the darkness of a Stygian night; 

for they can onl3r imagine the traits they hope to dis- 

I cover. Therefore when they see a pretty girl emplo3'-ed 

' as a waitress in a public garden, they conclude that 

the management lias selected her to attract custom. The 

I 

] ignorance of English and Americans on this subject is 
amazing. Did thejr but know the truth they would under- 

' stand that the waitresses in such a place are often the 
patron's daughters or relatives and their conduct gives 
the place its caste, so that one maj'' not fear to bring 

-77- 



his v/ifo, liis children or his 3v/eethoar~ there. I v/iah 
it were possible for such beer gardens to exist in this 
country, but I fear that is not likely to be, until our 
P90]:le hc^-ve greatly changed in character and in their 
?uri':anical attitude xoward the connunption of light 
alcoholic beverages. 

It vras late that niglat when I returned to ny hotel 
but I slept soundly and on the follo\7ing laorning deter- 
mined to Liake the ascent of Mount Pilatus. On a previous 
visi" I had mounted the Righi, and descended the saae 
day without having seen inuch of the surrounding countr3!-. 
On another occasion I had cllabed lit. Pilatus only zo 
be cauglit in a snow storm that made me hover around a 
red hot. stove in midsujn;:ier. As this was my third at- 
tempt to reach a iiiOun"uain peak where I could look upon 
the great Alpian chain, I felt that m;- perseverance 
would be rewarded. 



-78- 




G-ex.//et~/e ccyi c(er .A-xej^s^ra.sse. 



MOUl^T PILATUS. 

It v/as a ceautiful sumraer morning on the 22ncl of 
July v/hen tlie young college boys v/ho , with myself, were 
making the tour of Europe, went aboard the boat ■chat was 
to take us to Alpnachstaclt , from which point the Kt, 
Pilatus road ascends. Once out upon the lake I had an 
opportunity to look back at Lucerne, bathed in sunshine. 
Back of the town the rolling land displayed many beauti- 
ful villas set amM verdant fields and \/oodland. On the 
lake front or riva, vrhich for a mile 1§ a beautiful prom- 
enade shaded b;- thrifty chestnut trees, I could see our 
hotel set amid pretty gardens and adjoining it the new 
National Hotel and Casino with its summer garden and 
annexes, r.nd further on the Kurplatz with its famous 
Sweitzerhof, so v;ell knovm to our countr^ncaen. The sites 
of these buildings are ideal. And this because they 
lock out directly on the lake as far as Viznau where the 
-Righi, the Burgenstock and Mount Pilatus loom up in the 
middle distance; whilst the groat Alp chain v:ith its 
snow capped peaks from tlie background to this noble 
panorama. If one has arriple time innumerable excursions 
can be made to these extremely interesting pointc. In 



-79- 



fact one could spend a nontli in this locality and enjo;.' 
every monent of tlie tine- 

On our v;o.y tlie Soeaj.icr shopped at !3uochs, Kehrsiten 
and Stanssand. T.'laic-i tovms are on tLe Vierwald, the nialn 
am of Lake Lucerne j then after passing through a dra'.7- 
tridge t/g entered a lagoon at the head of v.^iich lay the 
village of Alpnachstad. After a short delay we disem- 
barked "571 th the other passengers, a hundred or iiiore 
nearly all of whoni were, like ourselves, intent upon 
making the ascent of Mt. Pilatus. 

And now a v/ord ahout the railway that is to take us 
up to the si;iiLmit. Althougli the Mt, Pilatus road ?/as 
built in 1689, it retiains to "che present, the wost re- 
markable mounxain road in the world. In aanir respeccs 
it is a more original conception than the Jungfrau road 
now being constructed, and this for the reason "chat its 
course follows the exterior of the precipitous cliffs 
that for:a the peak, v.'hile its roadvmy is li-^verall;/ cut 
out of the solid rock. ]?urtherraore, "che system of pro- 
pulsion is tha'j of steai/j and the ascent is accomplished 
without recourse xo cables or elevators. Briefly the 
ilt. Pilaxus railway is a cogroad a liiile in length with 
an average gradient of 38 in. 100 feet. Its roadbed is 
of solid ruasonry upon which the traction rails and the 
central cograil are bolted. Tlie central rail, has the 



-80- 



cogs placed upon zlze side so th.a,t the two powerful cog- 
wheels of tlie locomotive iija:'- interlock in the spurs, the 
Exies of these wheels therefore are vertical to the plane 
of the car, and. are actuated oy a po\7erful pair of engines 
tmich under a pressure of 150 pounds to the square inch 
push the car, of which tliey are r. part, up the incline. 
ITow in ascending there is little or no danger as long as 
the locomotive is able to push the load; out in descend- 
ing the case is quite different, for friction "breaks 
could not possihly hold the weight upon the steep grad- 
ients. A much more po'.verful aj'^stem is therefore neces- 
sary. Tliis is accoL'iplished by converting the engine in- 
to an air compressor, and as the car descends it forces 
the engines to revolve in the opposite direction from 
that in which they operated under steam. The cylinders 
thereby create a pov/erful compression of air; which upon 
being released permits the car to descend b3.- gravity. 
Such in brief is the principle, whidi when explained to 
' me gave me perfect confidence in the system. 

Wien we arrived at the station, which is located 
on the side of the mountain near the boat landing, I saw 
six cars each with its locomotive in the rear, puffing, 
wheezing and snorting, like a lot of restless chargers 
ready to be off. It took some time before our car, the 
last one, was started. TOien it got away I looked up at 

-81- 



the others whicl-i had preceded us and sa\7 five little 
giants pushing and puffing as thougli they v/ere living 
things that enjo;.-ed the vigorous exercise. Tliat there 
was a mighty po\7er behind us v;as made evident by the 
jolting v/e rrcre receiving, this *v7a3 not due to the sj^eed, 
but to the thrust of the engines, which produced a ijost 
disagreeable vibration, so that a,n hour and a half later 
when v;e reached the sijonmit we ^7ere glad to get off and 
steady our nerves. Our route laj'' through fields of 
clover, then up through forests of beech, and further on 
through woodlands of spruce and fir. Bej'ond this 77ere 
stunted cedars and heather; and then nothing but bare 
and barren cliffs with here and there a vallej'- filled 
with snow. The utter desolateness of these rockj'- peaks 
cannot be ii-iagined; one musx have been there to full 
realize vlitxz a mighty mass nature has fashioned and from 
them survey this barren grandeur. 

At one o'clock we arrived at the Pilatus Kulxu, an 
hotel built under the Esel peak upon its southwestern 
side, from wl^lch point one tiay look down an iuiLiense 
ravine upon the lake and surrounding count rj'". Luncheon 
"being announced, we did nov. linger on the terrace but 
proceeded to care for the inner man. An hour later I 
started out alone. I had not proceeded far however be- 
fore a certain lassitude overcame me, as though I had 

-82- 



oeen vialking ver;- fas-c, this I knew to be due to the alti- ' 
tude , and I am told is caused b;- the raritjr of the air | 
V7hich accelerates the action of the heart. In time one ! 
becoiaes accustomed to the change but it often requires 

^veeks to get fullj' acclimated. This was made evident to j 

! 

me as I passed a 2'oung Sv.-iss who utterly exiriausted, was 
sitting on the pathway, to rest, before entering the 
hutel. He had climbed up from the Lake, a distance of 



over 5000 feet since breakfast time. Upon his back was 



1 hia knapsack, and at his side a flask, whilst in his hand j 

i i 

I he carried a stout hickorjr staff with a sharp iron point, i 

He wore the typical costume of the Swiss mo'xntaineer , a 

: i 

' cloth of an olive green color witli a hat to match. His' 

shoes vrere shod v/ith soft iron nails, so that thejr would | 

not slip on the smooth rocks, and on the whole he was a ' 

most picturesque character, but a somevrhat sorry one at j 

I 

t tiiat moment. I would gladly have interviewed him, but | 

time was pressing and I wished to make a tour of the peak. : 

I This can nov; be done b;^ means of an excellent path which : 

! has been herm out of the solid rocks, Tliis path traver- j 

I 

j ses many small tunnels in which openiags are cut so that j 

I one may look down the precipitous cliffs without danger, | 

j the effect being as tliough one v/ere imprisoned in the 

mountain, 3''et permitted to look upon a promised land. 

Below me lay farms and fields and woodlands extending for 

-85- 



iiiiles "ill the eye lost thexii in the ascending iiiountain 
ranges. The Lake of Zug, a lake of considerable size, 
appeared no larger than a pond, while the lake of the 
Po.ur Cantons seeiried to be only a part of the landscape 
and siiall in coiaparison. Upon it Lucerne lay peacefully 
iDefore me inany iiiiles av/ay. Had iz been possible to 
reach the.re 'oy air ship, I think I should have been 
ter.'ipted to have taken the trip, "but as that vras inposs- ■ 
ible I satisfied uyself by passing around the Esel so as 
tc ob-^ain a view of the grea'c Alp chain. A few udonents 
\7alk brought. lue -co a seat lierm out of the rock, from 
T7hich point,, I could contemplate for zhe first time in 
mi' lifs the beautj'- and grande'.ir of this great mountain 
range. At tl^at moment the sun had passed the zenith 
and the air T;as as clear as crj'-stal. The safety .of my 
position eliminated any sense of danger and as my eye 
souglat the middle distance, and then the horizon scanning 
a radius of several hundred miles, I felt as though I 
had been transporfed to the realm of the gods. Before 
ne lay the iiatterhorn, ■ its snow-capped peaks shimmering 
in the noonday sun;- to' the right the Jungfrau raised 



j i~s towering head; whilst in the distance on my left 
lay the St. Gothard, whose 'pass and tunnel form a hi^i- 

1 way into Italy. Innumerable peaks and spurs connected 
these great Alpian patriarclaa, which like their peers. 



-84- 



xrere decked in snows and glaciers centuries old. So i 

massive and so numerous were these snowy crests that one 

niiglit well have fancied theri a nigiit:'- ocean whose Titanic 

! 
waves had "been congealed and left as monuments for man j 

to contemplate in awe and deep humility. But, alas.' 

how futile are words to describe this scene; Man is an 

atom amid such majestic surroundings; yet, his lifo is 

a reflection of his environment. What wonder then, that 

the Swiss have produced a great race: for it is a fact i 

that amid this grandness of nature there has been born 

in them a love of country and loyalty of state that are 

akin to worship. ! 

I 

I 

I cannot tell how long I sat in contemplation of the ' 

wonderful panoracia that lay before ne. I only remember | 

that I was cwakened b-:'- the approach of a German lady who i 

I 

quite out of breath demanded of me the hour of day and 
the time of departure of our train. I looked at my 
watch and was amazed to note tliat it was after three 
o'clock; and fearing to be left on the summit all night, 
v/e hurried on together she speaking German while I re- 
plied in :^rench. Af^ier a few moments' conversation in 
this fashion she asked me in excellent English if I was 
not a Londoner; to which I responded that I was a native 
of Hew York, although my father had been born in England. 
At this information she burst into a fit of laughter and 



-85- 



nierrily replied: "Well, then, \7hy do we not ape ak our 
native tongue, I too, sen from llev; York." This was sure- 
13'' a ridiculous denouement, "but it put us both in good 
humour. Suffice it, we arrived at the station in ample 
time to take the cogroad, and at five o'clock were on 
board the Lr.ke Boat and on our V7ay back to Lucerne. 

It was nearly six o'clock v;hen we arrived at our 
hotel that evening, and the young men v/ho load accompanied 
me were so tired from their climb up the Esel that thej' 
retired for a,n hour's sleep before dressing for dinner. 
I availed myself of this opportunity to enter the Lounge, 
a spacious salon with large plate glass windows, look- 
ing out upon the riva and the lake, and choosing a seat 
that coiriL'janded an excellent view of the snow capped 
xjiountains in the distance, ordered a cup of tea. The 
sun was setting at the time and as it passed over the 
mountains back of our hotel, it shot a ruddy glov;, 
across the lake, tipping the snowj"- peaks in front of me, 
with rose, rod and orange hues that made them seem a- 
flaiae. At the same instant a delicate blue mist seemed 

I to arise froxri the lake and blend the scene in unity. I 
I 
have often witnessed these effects upon the stage and 

believed them to be the tricks of the electrician, j^et 

here was the same effect taking place in nature before my 

very eyes. It was not long before the fiery glow upon 

-86- 



the peaks vanished, and the mist at once seemed to be 
coLie more dense; this of course 7iras due to contrrvSt, 
! the sun having set. At that; moment a waiter approached 
and I requested him to close the large plate glass win- 
; dov/. To my surprise he replied that it was already 
I closed. Scarcely believing him, I advanced and found 
' that he r;as correct. Tlien looking out upon the lake I 
; sa\7 ever3"!ifhere that mysterious light 'vThich gave such a 
theatrical effect to the panorama. Phile I was standing 
thus in reverie, suddenl;/ there flashed a light from off 
: the Burgenstock. Like Hesper, the evening star, it shot 
j its rays through the enveloping mist and dazzled me 
' with its splendor. Fot having seen anything of the 
i kind before, I made inquiries and learned that it v/as 
a powerful search light, recently placed there by means 
of which the Alps are scanned at night. The momentary 
flash which I had seen was but a preparatory attempt, 
and as the evening promised to be extremel3^ clear I 
should be able later to witness it in operation. This 
was the case, and as I watched it later, I marveled that 
tiny, puny man had been able to produce a light so power- 
ful that in truth it vied with nature. 

Proa the view point of the lover of nature, it is 
certainly deplorable to see a picturesque country such 
as Switzerland become a showground for the tourist. 



-37- 



Cable railway's, searchlifihts and sumptuous hotels do not 
ooifipensate the mountaineer for the prii:iitive siniplicity 
of olden tines ^ yet it should be reiiieruberod that Europe 
is today, t2ie hlgh'-school of the world; a tour of the 
continent such as I am describing is educational and 
broadening in the best sense; therefore if it is neces- 
sary to build cable railways to obtain a proper concep- 
tion of the inajesty of nature, the purpose for which they 
are designed must justify their existence. 

I On the afternoon of July 23rd, our friends not having 
arrived fron G-ene/a; we decided to proceed to Zurich, at 

' which place we learned that the Passion Play at 
Ob er amine rgau would take place on the norning of July 28th, 
and that in order to reach there in time it v/ould be nec- 
essiary to go a day in advance. This v/as unfortunate for 
it again forced us to travel on Sunday, and gave us but 
a short tine for Zurich and Innsbruck. 



I 






18- 




B//cA auf duu^z/ia/72.// 




ZURICH 

As Zurich is a city of Kiuch interest and. tlie conner- 
cial capital of Switzerland., I naturally desired to spend 
a couple of days there, and above all visit the Polytechnic 
irrhich is famous the v;orld over for having graduated the 
idaring engineers who have built the great mountain roads 
'and from the v;ater falls, lighted every tovm T/orthy of 
the name v;ithin the state. Unf ortunatelj-, my stay being 
limited to a night's rest there, I can give only such in- 
forciation as I gathered "en passant". Briefly, Zurich 
is a town of 180,000 inhabitants located at the head of 
jLake Zurich, vdiere the river Lim:iiat finds its source. 
Like Geneva and Lucerne a river divides the town into 
two parts, and many handsome bridges cross the stream, 
while beautiful q\iays extend on both sides of the lake. 
It is on the lake side that some of the most beautiful 
villas of the v:ealthy residents of the cityy are located. 
In fact there are so many fine estates on both sides of 
the lake that the v/hole form a sort of suburb of Zurich. 

As Geneva is the center of the watch industry, St. 
[Gallen that of lace manufacture, so Zurich has become the 
jlieart of the silk industry of Sv/itzerland. Within recent 



-89- 



years their craftsnen have becoiae very expert, and to- 
day their tro,de is very considerable. 

Although Perne is ti\c political capital of Sv/itzsr- 
land, Zurich is its coiinr-ercial cen-cer, notwithstanc'.ing 
the grov/^h of Basel nearby. Being a tov/n of v/ealuh, it 
has encouraged the arts and sciences. Sin^e my last 
visit the beautiful T'onhalle, where symphony conc-erts are 
frequentl3!- given, has been constructed on the quay not 
far fron the famous Bauer au Lac Hotel. it v;ould require 
much time to note the important buildings of which the 
National Iv-usevin and Polytechnic are justly f ?jiious . Suf- 
f:'.ce it, the torm is •'jrorth a visit not merel^'' because of 
its buildings, ancient and modern, but also because of the 
great men of art and letters ^f^ho have resided there from 
time to time. During the age of classic poetry Goethe, 
Kolpstock, T7ieland, Kleist, visited the tomi, and it was 
here that Richard Wagner resided from 1849 to 1853, and 
vrote hj.s famous operas, Die Mcistersinger ; n?ristan and 
Isolde and pai-ts of Siegfried. This fact alone should 
make the tovm i.nteresting to those i:vho love this great 
composer ■ s v/o rks ., 

It was early Sunday morning when the maid of the 
Hotel Belleview rapped upon my door and annov.nced the 
hour; seven o'clock. lOiov/ing that the Vienna express de- 
parted at ten, I arose and looked out upon the landscape 

-90- 



that la3' before lae . A pale blue haze enveloped every- 
I thing; nevertheless I could distinguish tlie beautifully 
: cultivated rolling hills that border the lake and maJce 

j it so attractive, and as I stood admiring the scene, hes- 

I 

itating in ay mind whether to remain in this pretty lo- 
cality'-, or proceed to Innsbruck, the tyiapanums of my ears 
were nearly cracked by the tolling of a colossal bell 
near by. It must have been a powerful affair to have 
produced vibrations of such force as to rattle my case- 
ment window, yet that it v;as quite able to do. Tlie 

I deep growl of this old patriarch seemed to awaken otlier 
bell-ringers to activit^r, and in a jiffy every church 

; in the town was belching forth noise enough "co awaken 
the dead. There was neither rhj'-thm, sequence nor harmony 
in it all, simply a mass of discordant sounds thrown 
upon the air in defiance of all the rules of art or eti- 

; quette. Then I wondered if this infernal racket was 

! 

necessarj?- to help one into heaven, and deciding that it 
was not, ordered the porter to bring my baggage down tell- 
ing him that I wished to spend a quiet Sunday aboard the 
train, A grim smile swept over his face as he complied, 
and at ten o'clock we found ourselves aboard the Vienna 
express en route to Innsbruck, the most famous town in 
the Tyrol. 



-91- 



EIT ROU"E TO TI!E TYP.OL 



I an. not surprised tha"c strangers are confused at 
the conformation of Switzerland. Tlie iriountains are so 
high and the vallej'-s so tortuous that it is difficult to 
comprehend direction -/irithout an excellent detailed Ljap^ 
Tiie Alps "being the highest land in Europe, it is not sur- 
prising that the three great rivers of that country, the 
Phino, the ."Rhone and the Danuoe , should find their sources 
there. The inline and the Rhone take their source in the 
great Alp chain vmich I looked upon from Mt. Pilatus. 

The Rhone flo\7ing into Lake Leraan exits at G-eneva 
then flows west to Lj-ons , where joining the Soane it 
proceeds southward past Valence, Avignon and Aries de- 
touching into the Mediterranean not far from Marseilles . 

The l\liine rises in the sai:ie vicinity hut taking an 
opposite course flows into Lake Constance, passes out at 
its northern- end , then turns v/estward to Basel, from 
which point it flows north past Strasshourg, llainz , 
ColOfi'ne and enters the l\Forth Sea at Rotterdam, Holland. 

If , therefore , these rivers were navigable their en- 
tire length, it would he possible, v/itii only a short 
portage, to go from the IJorth Sea to the Mediterranean, 



-92- 




— JT^n shn-c ck. . 



"by \7ater. Unfortunately, the upper reaches of these 
rivers are so rapid that even transit by canoe is not 
practical. 

The L'anuhe, the greatest of the threo rivers men- 
tioned, rises near Lake Constance, flows westerly to 
.■RegensDurg, Crer0iany, then takes a south-easterl;- course 
past Linz, Vienna, Euda Pe^th and Belgrade and finally 
enters the Slack Sea not far from the .Russian frontier, 
where is located the important to'>im of Odessa. 

Ho\v it is quite safe to venture that not one 
American in a thousand has the least idea of the length 
or importance of these rivers. Yet the Shone has a length 
of 550 miles, the Rliine of 950 miles, and the Danube 
courses 2000 miles before it reaches the Black Sea. I 
mention these facts to convince those who imagine it 
possible to make a flying trip of the Continent in thirty 
days. Assuredly one may cover the distance in that time 
but the journey would be one of almost continuous travel. 
Furthermore, one passes many frontiers and connections 
delay the traveler greatly. As an example of these dif- 
ficulties, my experience in the summer of 1891 may be 
illuminating. In the month of June '91, I found myself 
in ITaples, with a return ticket from Glasgow to the North 
Cape. Hot desiring to proceed to Scotland I determined 
to go north to Trondlieim, Sweden and join the part^r there. 



-93- 



Imagine iny surprise rrlicn I was told tli3,t it would take a 
'.^eek to jTiake the Journe", v.n6. as the expense of this trip 
v.'as nec'.rly as mixch as I had paid for the cruise, I for- 
feited half iny passage laone;" and gave iz up. The truth 
is, Eurxpo is a larger countr;^ than we iiijagine and the 
means of transportation, although good, are much slower 
than "hose of the United States. 

It may be somewhat mollifying to knov/ that Europeans 
are perhaps more ignorant of our country than v.'e are of 
theirs. Jew know much of our country's Hiagnificont dis- 
tances, its great lakes, or miglit;-- mountains, and they 
often regard one as a romancer when he is simply staging 
the truth. I rememoer an incident of this kind vrhich 
occurred to me when in Rone in the surraer of '91. At 
tahle d'hote the conversation drifted toward mountain 
climoing and mountain railvrays. The young Englislman 
who v;as holding the audience spellboiind witii his descrip- 
tion of mountain cliL-ibing suddenly aslced me the heiglit 
of Pike's Peak, Colorado, and was pjiiaaed to learn that 
a Gog rocd had heen huilt to its su^ujit. ITow the alti- 
tude cf Lit.. Blanc 15,000 or more feet and Pike's Peak 
are nearly the same, hut the conditions of latitude, 
direct ele^'-ation etc. are totally different and it does 
not f ollov; that because a road has been buil' up one 
th;>t it ca n be buili^ on th e othe r. This sa me gentleman 

-94- 



flat 13'" denied tliat an ordinarv railroad could cross the 
Eock;'- Mountains at an altitude of 11,000 feet. Yet I 
have crossed Llarshall Pass on the Rio Grande Road at that 
altitude. Such is the ignorance of Europeans upon the 
conditions in our country. 

But enough of these digressions. Suffice it, vire 
found ourselves on the Vienna Express bowling along 
toward the village of Sargens, which we reached about 
eleven o'clock. Here our train was s\fitched in a narrow 
valley and v:e proceeded backv;ard up some very steep 
grades to the village of Peldkirch where the same manoeu- 
vre was reversed and we rhen started off upon our long 
and tortuous journey to Innsbruck. 

It is at Peldkirch ohat one laay transfer to a line 
running JForth and rea.ch Landau at the foot of Lake 
Constance. I comnend this trip to all vrho have time 
enough at their cornaand, for the country"- surrounding the j 
lake is ciost beautiful and the cliiaate delightful. Lake 
Constance is 42 miles long and has the distinction of be- 
ing surrounded by five different states. These are 
Bavaria, V/urtemburg, Eaden, Sv^itzerland and Austria. 
The locality has alv;ays been greatly favored by tourists i 
and it was with regret that we were obliged to pass it by. 

Luncheon being announced, we went forward into the 
dining car and during the service had the opportunity of 

-95- 



looking out upon the re::iarkable countr:' through which v/e 
were jyassing. Although tv;o locotiotives •';7Gre pulling our 
train wg vrere proceeding at a relatively slov: pace; our 
course lying up a valley beti,veen two large and precipi- 
tous ranges of Kiountains . So lofty "rere they, that it 
was difficult to look up at theia in order to see their 
sno'.v-capped peaks. The da;- having been a rainy one die 
mountain streans v;ere raging cataracts, the uiountain peaks 
covered \7ith freshly fallen snovr, and the fields and 
meadov/s of emerald green freshened by the suxnrjer tain. 
It ':7a3 the time of harvest, and though a holiday the 
farmers were tr;/ing to dr^r their crop of clover upon 
curious sticks which permitted the air to blow through 
it 77hile keeping it off the humid ground. Pathetic 
this, when compared with our farmers v;ho sow and reap by 
machiner.y. But let us not siympathize too Liuch; there 
arc no poor in this country; on the contrary there is 
every evidence of prosperity, and the people are happier 
far than our western farmers, whose acres are counted by 
the hundreds or thousands. 

All the coL-ipliments I have paid the Swiss, can v;ith 
equal justice be paid the Tyroleans, their brothers, and 
I cannot give a better idea of their courage, self-re- 
liance and manhood, than to quote froni Baodecker the 
^tory^ of Andreas Hofer, the George Washington of their 

-96- 



country. 

"This extraordinary nmn wa3 born in 1767, near the 
village of St. Leonliard in the Passeyer. A dealer in 
wines and horses a" the age of 29, he began his public 
career as a leader of a corps of riflemen against the 
Prench, who were then invading Ital:' and enco untie red 
his men near Lago di Garda. In 1803 he assisted in a 
reorganization of the uilitia of his country and in 1808 
took an active part in the rising against the Bavarians. 
During the year 1809 he was elected to the coromand of 
the Tyroleae, who under his generalship, achieved many 
victories. Later he accepted the civil and militarj'- 
governorship of the Tyrol with a residence at Schloss 
Tyrol, during which time he conducted the administration 
with characteristic simplicity and direction. After the 
peace of Vienna the liaperor of Austria himself oxliorted 
the Tyrolese to submit to the foreign yoke of the 3?i»ench, 

^ but Hofer misled by false reports, led his troops a- 

I 

I 

' gainst the enemy and v^as defeated, himself being obliged 
to flee for safety. His hiding place was eventually 

I discovered hov/over and on O'an, 20, 1810 he and his family 

I trere taken prisoners. He v/as conveyed to llanteva, tried 
by court marshal and notwithstanding the fact that a 
majority of the Judges were opposed to his execution, 

'was shot by the order of Napoleon on February 20, 1810", 



-97- 



Such \vc3 the career of this brave in£.n. 

As our progress through the valley had. been very 
slov; it v;a.3 nearl:' three o'clock when v;e arrived at 
Lr.ndec:-:, the Austrian frontier. The journey to this 
point 'ixe.d. been one of rare beauty, £.:id now for the first 
tiiae since leaving Zurich "le had an opportunity to de- 
scend froiQ the train and look up at the mighty mountains 
t."irough whicli v.-e had be;n traveling so many hours. it is 
a curious fact tho.t one feels instinctively that they are 
in a different country, the raoraent thej^ enter the station 
at Landeck. Of course the unifoniis of the guards, the 
custoiQ officials and the Gonde Arms help to confinn tliis 
i-jipression, "rut there is also a noticeable clian^e in the 
employees themselves. They have a certain poise and 
dignity that attract attention, and conducted the passing 
. of the customs nith as much care as though we were people 
; cf great importance and station. It took fully an hour 

to o;>;a_.:'.ne all the baggage and put it back upon the 
I train again, \ihen this was accomplished the Chef de la 
C'are, came out and standing at attention, gave the order 
to the Chef de train, who in turn, gave the signal to the 
engineer, and lo , we were again upon our vfay to Innsbruck. 



-93- 







■"/;! 



["^T 






fy^^^^^-::^- 






Lv,Y^^fel.l' 



;.a.^^;^'^l!^'"f 




.<^«%i^c:^ 



^^\A 



IimSHRUCK 

The approach to Innsbruck from Landeck is certainly 
very beautiful. The rain having cleared the atmosphere, 
the sun came out and not long after we left Telfs, the 
city loomed up in the distance. The valley through which 
we had been proceeding was the water course of the Inns 
River, a narrow but formidable stream, which separates 
the city of Innsbruck into two parts; on the right are 
high mountains, and on the left, toiver the Tyrolean Alps 
to the height of over 10,000 feet. The noble and beauti- 
ful background that these make to the town cannot be 
imagined. Pictures give only a faint idea of it, and 
words are inadequate, it is therefore, like my view from 
Mt. Pilatus something that must be experienced to be 
appreciated. As our hotel, the Tyrol lay but a pistol 
shot from the depot we walked there and were disappointed 
to find it such a foreboding looking establishment, as 
the great oaken doors were closed as thovigh in fear of 
invasion; but once within we appreciated that we were 
in a comfortable and prosperous hotel. On being shovwi to 
my room, I noted that the hallways were heated by steam, 
and that each room had a large open fireplace as well. I 



• 99- 



opened, the casenent vrindows, and observed they were made 
double, a sure indication of a cold cliiriate. The altitude 

of the to'/n being pr obably 3000 feet, the air is always 

i 
crisp and cold, and it is only at midday that the tempera- 
ture increases to the point v/hich we tern confort. 

It was quite half past seven o'clock vrhen our part;'- 
went into the tal5le de hote. As I had not seen nany ^ r- 
sons about the hotel when we entered, I was surprised on 
entering the noble dining room to find it filled vrith 
guests. Tlie talJlas were arranged in the old-fashioned way 

and seated at least two hundred persons. While waiting 
! 
for the naitre de I'hotel to find us places at table, I 

took a glance at tlie room. It was perhaps one hundred 

feet long b;'- seventj'' in width, with lofty ceilings, rich- 
I 
ly decorated. But the crowning glory of it all, was an 

immense window at the end, made in large sections that 
framed in the landscape. Imagine an opening filled witli 
plate glass, fortj» feet v:ide hy fifty feet in height, 
framing in the Alps v/ith its chalets, forests, and snow- 
capped peaks, (not in miniature but in actual reality) 
and ;-ou can then get a slight idea of the beauty of the 
scene. At the moment I v/as looking at it, the sun v&s 
gilding the summits of the mountain v/ith a soft rose tint, j 
that formed a delicate contrast with the white snows and 
the sombre green of "che firs belov/, and as I stood in 

-100- 



contemplation; I begun to appreciate how futile it is 
for tlie artist ■.vi'cli canvas and pig^ients to attempt to 
portray such a marvelous and majestic scene. It cannot 
be done except in miniature end that is but a ;nemory. 

Ilae dinner over the tolling of the church bells re- 
minded us that it v/as Sunday- , and wear:' from our journej' 
we did not venture out of the hotel that evening, but 
retired early to bed. 

The ne:c"c day I arose earl;'- and learning that there 
T/as an exhibition at Munich decided to take the 1 P.M. 
train on to that point. This gave us but a half day in 
Innsbruck. I can therefore only give such information 
of the place as I obtained in that short time. 

Briefly, Innsbruck is a city of about 25,000 inlmb- 
itants, and like Lucerne is the center of tourist travel 
from Italy to Germany during the summer season. Most 
tourists coming north from Italy take the route to Milan 
from thence through the Italian Lakes, then over the 
St. G-othard to Lucerne or other points north. Yet in 
doing this they miss one of the most beautiful scenic 
trips in Europe - the trip from Venice to Verona, thence 
to Bozen ond then through the r/onderful Dolxaites to 
Innsbruck. Tliis country of the Dolmites is truly the 
glory of Europe, and in order to be properly seen and 
appreciated, the trip should be made by means of a 

-101- 



I 



Eountain vragon staroing either a.t Innsbruck or Botzen. 
To a p Tzy of four tl:e expense is nox excessive j and the 
experience will "be one to "be renecibered. Unfortunately 
T7e v/ere unable to make this detour our ITeirier. is driving 
us to\/ard Oberajoniergau, 

Innsbruck is an extremely interesting city, and 
possess iniiny broad and handsome streets, and se\''eral Jn- 
portant buildings. The town being located on both sides 
of the Inn River, is consequently,'- divided into two p^rts 
known as "che old and new to'.Tn. The new town is cf course 
the most i.npcrtant and conta,ins the principal places of 
interest. Of these the only one that I visited v/as the 
Franciscan Church, or Hofkirchs as it is called. As this 
is the TTestiainster Abbey of the TjTolese, a word abouo 
it will be of interest. Architecturally, the church is of 
no great irriportance , the exterior being sadly in need of 



repair and v/ere it not for the superb monuiient of 
Maxi:nilian I. which graces its interior the church would 
probably- be little visited. This toab however, is one 
of the best examples of the Renaissance period. It was 
constructed m 1563 and occupies the center of the nave 
of the church. In foi'm i\ is that of a sarcophagus beauti- 
fully ornamented by many bas reliefs and small statues, j 
the top surmounted by a bronze figure of Maximilian I in a 
kneeling position, facing the chancel of the church, luid 

-102- ' 



the \7hole surrounded "by a most beautiful and ornate iron 
grille. On tlie right and left of this tomb occupying 
the open spaces bet\7een the large columns that support 
the nave roof are tvrenty-oight colossal statues of the 
po^7erful royalties of the period. The marvelous detail of 
the costumes of these statues gives one a slight impression 
of the magnificence of tlie time. The list of these remark- 
able statues is as follows: 

On the right are: 1. Clon's of Prance; 2. Philip I. 
of Spain son of Maximilian; 3, Emperor Randolph of 
Kapsburg; 4, Duke Albert the Wise; 5, Theodo Duke of 
Austria and Styria. 7, Theodobert, Duke of Burgundy; 
8, Arthvir King of England; 9, Archduke Segismund; 
10, Bianca, Maria Sforza second wife of Maximilian; 
11 Ilargaret their daughter; 12, Zimburga, wife of Duk© 
Ernest; 13, Cliarles the Bold of Burgundy; 14, Philip le 
Bon, father of the last. 

Op the left are: 15, Johanna Queen of Philip I of 
Spain; 16, Ferdinand the Catholic, her father; 
17, Cunigunde sister of Maximilian; 18, Elonora of 
Portugal mother of Maximilian; 19, Maria of Burgundy his 
first wife; 20, Elizabeth, wife of Albert I; 23, Frederick 
IV, Count of the Tjrrol; 24, Leopold III; 25, Count 
Rudolph of Hapsburg, grandfather of the Emperor; 26, Leopold 
the Saint; 27, Emperor Frederick III, father of 

-103- 



Maxixiiilian; 28, Empejroi' Albert II. | 

3uch are tlie statues of tlie ro7al personages 'Jlio sur- 

i 
round, this tcmb, and as they are placed, the sta'oues form 

a noble frane work for the sarcophagus, and the whole 

makes an array, which ranks this iiioni:inent as one of zhe 

most interesting in Europe. j 



-104- 



EIT ROUT S TO IITOIGK 

Although v.'e liad spent but half a day in Innsbruck 
and \7ould gladl3^ have rexaained longer, nevertheless 
friends v;hom lire had iriet advised us to hurr^* on to Munich 
and as circuiastances afterv/ard transpired it t/as v/ell 
that we did so. Therefore at 1:30 p.m. v/e took the 
Munich Eccpress and were soon out of the tiountainous dis- 
trict of the Tyrol. As v;g approached Roseniioim, the 
frontier, the countrjr becatae laore rolling and fertile, 
and it was evident that v:e had descended into a differ- 
ent land. Our baggage being registered through we did 
not pass the customs hero, but continued on to Munibh 
which we reached about 4:30 in the afternoon. Our ap- 
proach to the city convinced me of the inportance of 
tiais town as a irianufaoturing center, which possibly ex- 
plains wh:" the present exliibition was held there. Be 
that as it may, on arriving at the Central Station I 
vras amazed at the crowia of tourists rushing to and fro. 
Had I been transported in a drearn to the World's Pair at 
Chicago, the rush and disorder could not have been 
worse. We finall3- pushed our way out to the open sqiiare 
where the hotel omnibuses align themselves , and seeking 

-105- 



tliat cf Z\e 2ae:-cr.3c:ier ?Iof went tov;ard it. To our ^ur- 

i priso tlie l;anci.soi:ie electric bus stood there unattended, 

' find no one sesraod -^o kno%7 ".zherG the driver had gone. Af- 

i 

; ter a terr laoj^ents delay he arrived and politel.7 told us 

! that tlieir hotel was quite full and that it v7ould be use- 

' less for us to go there. ?Ie was aboui: to leave us \7liBn 

, I recalled hia and told hin that we 7;ere traveling with 

I Coc]k's I-o':el Coupons, and having written in advance, it 

i 

was his place to find U3 accoroiiodations elsevjhere. The 
ar^'ur-ent proved effective and after an half hour's delay 
he returned telling us that he had secured accoinijodations 
at T'lie -lotol 3avo", v/here we would at least have good food 
and a clean bed. TVe accepted and were driven to one of 
the liiost unique Bohemian resorts in the tc.Tn. I was not 
sorr:" for this, for the dress and pa]:'ade of first class 
hotels wa3 beginning to pall on ne , and "che moLiCnt we 
descended at the ho-:el I knevir that we liad finally found a 
typical jeriAtin hostelry. But of this anon. 

At present v;e are concerned with reaching OberariLicr- 
gau in ti::je for the Passion Play. It was therefore de- 
cided that we should have oujr rooms reserved for our 
return and leave on the afternoon of <?'uly 27th for the 
play. This gave us a day in which to see Munich before 
leaving for Oberarrjiaergau. 



-106- 



OBE.HAl'a j mOAU . 

« 

As one of tlie principal reasons I liacl in visiting 
Europe this year was to "fitness the Passion Pla:', I shall 
atteinpt to describe, as ai/iply as possible, the impression 
the event inade on me. Of course I had read soine^/hat of 
the play and. the performers, and I think I approached the 
sacred tov;n with an open inind; if therefore cxy review of 
the event is not as laudatory as that of Wm. T. Stead, it 
may be because I did not understo.nd enougli German to 
make the play fully intelligible to me, or it may be that 
my standards of dramatic composition are too advanced, or 
still it iiicy be that I am not one of the faithful. At 
any rate, whatever the cause, I shall attempt to be sin- 
cere in my criticism. 

\7hile the pla3'' is given by the people of the village, 
every ten years, in fulfillment of a vow, the thoroughly 
business-like manner in which the affair is conducted 
convinces me that the monetary consideration is not neg- 
lected. Tliis is made evident b;^ the disposition of the 
seats which are given to the householders of the town, 
and re-sold by them to such guests as take lodging with 
them. It is therefore necessary in subscribing for seats 



-107- 



and agree to take tvro da^'-s board and lod{:ing v;ith one of 
the householders. Tliis is readily accoraplished through 
Thos . Cook and Son, who seem to have a control of the 
best houses, thej' being interested in sone way with the 
enterprise. Hov/ever in justice to theia I mus'c say that 
they advised me of the condition in advance, and ohe en- 
tertainment we received in the home of lierr Gtibel, the 
King's Porester, was to me, the most delightful part of 
this trip. 

It ^7as 2:30 o'clock on Wednesday afternoon, July 27th, 
when vie boarded the special train for Oberammergau. Plow 
many other pa, ssengers tliere were in the pilgrimage it 
would be difficult to estimate ov.z there must have been 
several tliousand, as it took two immense sections to ac- 
ocariodate them, even then inany 'Jere obliged to stand in 
the corr:.'_ors, and on the v/hole the trip '.vas a most un- 
comfortable one. Of the passengers more than fifty per- 
cent were Americans, and zlie majority of these women. If 
I had expected to encounter a band of pilgrims, in devout 
expectation going forth to a great religious ceremonial, 
my illusion v/as soon dispelled when I heard a lot of 
rroung woncn and men singing college songs to v/hile away 
the weary progress of our train. 'Jitl: few exceptions, 
all seemed to regard the coming event as a drar.iatic per- 
formance for xiieir enteniainiuen'j, rather than a religious 

t- ~~ 

! -108- 



ceremonial v/hich it has heretofore "been. But, as I have 
said before, I desired to approach the performance with 
an open tiind and did not inxend to allow the frivolous 
talk and actions of a fe^7 of inj- countrjnmen to sway my 
opinion. 

Although it was but thirt^r-four miles froni Munich 
\ to OberaiWiiergau, it took two and a half hours to iuake 
the trip. In that time we had passed through rolling 
lands and had ascended several hundred feet to the village 
which is at an altitude of about 2500 feet, set amid 
pr©tt;r wooded hills. When we descended from tiie train 
the passengers in a mad rush mr.de for a temporary wooden 
shed over v/hich the name of Thos . Cook & Son was visible. 
There they exchanged their tickets for a billet of allot- 
ment upon the various householders. It took a long while 
to serve them all but in due time we received our allot- 
ment and taking two boys of the village as guides, pro- 
ceeded to walk up the muddy higiway to the village. As 
we passed through the tc^m I observed that the houses 
were of the Chalet tj^pe built of stone cenented over, with 
their exteriors frescoed in most fantastic manner. The 
house of oixr friend Ilerr GObel proved to be one of the 
"best in the town and v/as located beside the village 
church. Our advent was evidently expected for at the 
door we were met by the patron and his wife who extended 

-109- 



us a liiosz hear-y v.'clcoirie . The bo^^s, v:ho had in the 
meantime, carried, our satchels up to uhe bedrooitis ue 
•7ere to occupy, no\i requested their pay. I gave them 
cac'.i half a mark, which vraa i;roinptl;' returned as inade- 
qimte. I then learned that nothing less than a ciark uas 
considered a tip, and preferring not to dispute the mat- 
ter, paid it. Yet iiad we chosen, \7e could have taken a 
cab for our party for the sa:ne 13? ice. However one must 
get used to these impositions, unless they wish to }iave 
their entire trip spoiled b;^ futile discussions. 

I confess that I was most agreeable surprised upon 
entering tlie lioiise, to find it so large and commodious. 
!■: v.'as perhaps fori:y fee'c r.'ide by eigh.t;- feet long, tv;o 
and a half stories in heiglit. The roof was ox the flat 
chalet type, but the curious part of it was, that it 
covered both a barn and a house in one. A heavy wall of 
iiia,sonry separated the barn from that occupied as the 
ho:.ie , and if it liad not 'oeen for the neighing of the 
horsos, I would not have knov/n tliat anything of the kind 
'jas nes.r by. It appears that this form of construction 

is liade necessary by the rigorous winters v/hich often 

1 
cut the village off from the outside world for days at a ' 

time. Under these conditions the fatcil;* and their lierds j 

being gathered under one roof vn.th plenty of food garnered 

aviay may av/ait a favorable tirie to venture out, > 

-110- 



The interior of the house v/aa xaost interesting. A 
large hallwa;* divided the "building, and on i/his the main 
floor, were the Forester's office, his v/ife's sitting 
roon, a large dining rooip and the kitchen. A handsoiae 
staircase in carved oak led up to the floor above where 
there were several large and small roo/ns , all beautifully 
furnished and decorated. These, and in fact, the entire 
building, 'v7erc lighted oy the most approved electric 
lights. It was evident that the proprietor was a great 
hunter for Cliamois horns and deer antlers in great num- 
bers, decorated the laalls and gave a most picturesque 
patriarchal effect. In the dining-room were several 
exai:jples of fine carved oak furniture and a beautiful 
Black Cock, superbl^f mounted, stood at the head of the 
room, in a defiant attitude whicli seemed to say, "Look 
at me, 1 am the rarest and most beautiful game bird in 
the world." 

As for the proprietor Herr GBbel himself, he was a 
t^rpical -yrolean. A nian of importance in his town, he 
not onls!- looked but acted the part. He met us in his 
native costume - knee breeches, embroidered jacket and 
Robin Hood Imt, which he politely doffed as we entered. 
A man of about 45 years of age, he stood six feet two 
inches in height, and being in the pink of health weiglied 
probably 200 pounds. His beard and long hair lent a 

-111- 



picvure3;iue 30u"ing oo his genicil face -jhich soe/nad to 

t 

say: "Gen'cleinon, my h.o:ae is at :-our disposal, laaJzo i 

yourselves Lapp"." Por a lielpna^e lie had chosen a ■:rlfe \ 
as healthy as hiriself. Siiapls, genial and conpeten^, she , 

I 

"ore her hc^ir in fcraids and v/as dressed in a broi/n houe- I 

i 
spun dress over •."•:ich she v/cre a largo black silk apron, 

the enslejri ol" lier ofiice. Unaor Iier care v:er3 the cook I 
and tv;o house maids, v'ho '.vith her aid made ^he "bufoer and 
cheese and co,red for tlie house. These attendants rroro 
large v/hi^e aprons -'ilzli scraps over the shoulders the 
crrihleMs of their office. 

Che King's Porester is neyzz to the mayor of the 
village the mosi: iiuportanr, personage in the tovm, for he 
controls uhe cutting and planting of the forests, and it 
is before hira that all infringers of the gaiae laws are 
"brouglat for piinishniGni; . But iz would xake a book "co 

describe -^he village and i^s very interesting iniiabi-:;ants . 
Suffice ij, they are nos'cl;- wood carvers and f aiiners ; and 
during the season of 'che plaj* every nan, wouan ana child 
in the village is either directly- or indirectly interest- 
ed in the performance. As an example, I learned from the 
\/aitress of our house, a j/^oung girl of about eighteen, 
that she posed as one of the angels in the tableau::, of 
v/hich there are a nuiaber interspersed bet\7een xhe acts. 
She seeKied to be very proud of the minor part she essayed, 

-112- 



and told me that there -./ere no less then four or five 
liundred perf enters, the laajorit;- of vfaom v/ere quite con- 
tont -^0 bo t^iven an opportunit;'- to appear £u:iong tlie mul- 
titude upon the stage. But do not let me anticipate the 
performance. It v;as quite six o'clock v;hen I retired to 
013* room for a fe^7 moments' repose before dinner. I 
must have fallen asleep, for about seven o'clock I \ira,s 
av/akened by the distant voices of the villagers singing a 
solemn and dreary chant. Desiring to knot; the reason for 
this I arose and proceeded to the opposite side of the 
house, from v/hence the sound seened to coxne , and looking 
out of the 'jindow saw in the church yard belov/, a priest 
and tt7o acolytes standing at the head of an open grave. 
About the priest in a seiiii-circle v^ere gathered a group 
of tv7ent3'- or more peasants, In a kneeling posture, chant- 
ing the responses to the roass, - the last rites to tlae 
dead. It v/as a pathetic picture this, the men and women 
with tlieir cliildren at their side, all in deep sincerity 
rendering their praj^er to God. I 770uld have remained 
until the service ended, had not the dinner bell announced 
the hour for supper. I therefore descended at once and 
found the other guests about a dozen or more already 
seated at table. Tlie v/aitress, of '.vhom I have spoken, 
seeiiied to be perfectl:-- capable of attending to the guests 
and proceeded by asking each wliat wine they xTould prefer, 



-113- 



Iiandini5 w'.eja a '•rri~ten list of the vir/jaces. Fnen I 
glanced c,~ tliis liot I kner; that our patron v/as a 
connoiasev.r of good './ine , ana fortliv.'ith ordered a bottle 
of Iv/J-dersheiiuer . -lie v/ine v.'as excellent tuT; the dinner 
v/'as even "oeti-er, such superb cooking I had no"G tasi:ed 
since leaving i'-oiiiS. ^riefl" it consisted of Lin'cel soup, 
brock trout vith bu'oter sauce, roast laiiib "ith vegetables 
cauliilo^-er salade, nesslerode pudding, cheese, fi'uits and 
nuts. 5" the tiaio coffee ".'as served all the guests at 
tabic '.\c.d become acquain'::cd and v/e sat about sip^:iing our 
coffee, and discussing the play uiitil the late hour of 
nine o'clock v/hen ue all retired "o bed. 



-114- 




I 



2I-IE PASSIOiy PLAY 

So i£iuch lias been x^nritten about tliis performance 
that is true and so much that is fanciful flattery, that 

it is difficult for one v;ho has not v/itnessed the play 

I 

: to get a just appreciation of its real appeal. I shall 

j therefore recount only as much as I saw and give luy im- 

I 

: pression of the event rather tlian an analysis of ^he play,. 

It was six o'clock on the Biorning of J"ul;'- 28th vrlzen 
the laaicl rapped on in;'- door, and told rue that inass v;as al- 
ready on at the church. I would gladl3^ have gone to 
sleep again cut the tolling of a great church bell near 
by, made the.t impossible, I therefore arose and v/hile 
dressing vfatched the shepherds drive their flock to 
pasture; the covra and sheep were passing dovn the road 
in troops of ten or more at a time, their tintillating 
bells, makiiig a laerry roundelay in opposition to the 
solemnity of the church bourdon. I was soon out of doors 
and when the procession had passed, entered the church. 
To idy surprise I found it crov/ded to the doors, pushing 
lay way through the throng I reached a side aisle and 
aa\7 a priest, a deacon and a sub-deacon with attendant 
acolytes performing the high mass at the high altar. 



-115- 



There v-ere also four other priests at the four side 
altars all going through ^he same cereKion:', each quite 
oblivious of tlie otliers - assuredly it was an imposing 
arra" en:}, in justice I iiiust add that the service v;as 
solernn and dignified. The church not being heated v/as 
as cold as a vp.ult, and after passing my luite to the 
verger v/ho collected the alms "by means of a velvet "bag 
tied to a fishing pole, I gladly returned to the open. 
Altiiough it '.7as inidsujniner the laorning v/as as cold as 
autui.in. A inis- like steam '-vas arising froin the ground 
and there was a chill in the air that penetrated to the 
laarro'v? of the oone. I was glad therefore to return to 
the house and get a cup of hot coffee to warm me and 
after a chat with m" friends set out for the play house. 
Before leaving, lladame Gflhel handed us each a cushion 
which we like the others, carried instead of a prayer 
iDook. As we passed through the village ' the sun 
caxie ov.z and as we neared the theatre the crov/d became 
so densG that we could proceed "but slov/ly. 

Iz took us some tine to find our seats which were 
only a board bench with many nujiibers on the back. Pinal- 
1;' getting located \;e './atched the auditorium from our 
point of vantage. The v;hole audience seemed to be a 
sea of humanity, going and coming, talking and laughing 
as tlioug?i they were to witness a comedy instead of a 



-IIG- 



tragedy. Such a babel of tongues I have never heard be- 
fore, but among them all the Anglo-Saxon seemed to dom- 
inate. I stood for a moment in order to note the size 
of the auditorium which I was told was 47 meters long 
by 47 1/2 in width. In appearance the building has no 
architectural beauty whatever, resembling a skating rink, 
more than a theatre. The seats are placed in rows, and 
ascend step by step to the back, so that the last row is 
at a verj-- great distance from xhe stage. The acoustics, 
nevertheless, are Yery good and I am told that one can 
hear quite distinctly in the last row. Measiirements 
give one but a vague idea of this auditorium which seats 
4000 people. That there was not an empty seat at the 
opening of the play speaks voltimes for the enoerprise, 
and it would be difficult to describe the spirit of ex- 
pec tanc;' tliat pervaded the throng. However, it is not 
the audience that we come to see but the play. Tlie stage 
is an immense affair being 145 fest wide, and open to the 
v/eather, the scenery, like the Greek Theatre, pennanent, 
but instead of being built in stono is constructed in 
wood and canvas frescoed to simulate stone and marble. 
This was a sad disappointment to me, for I know the great 
advantage of a dignified setting and this can only be 
obtained by using real material. The permanent set repre- 
sented a series of colonnades and arches which lead tip to 



-117- 



the central theatre, reserved for the tableaujc and cer- 
tain scenes of the play. This cen-cral theatre is quite 
modern in its appointments, having a curtain which nay 
"be raised and lov^ered, and the rapidity'- with which the 
scenes \iere changed would do justice to the "oest modern 
stage management. 

It was quite eight o'clock when the orchestra 
opened with tlie prelude. After a few moments' silence 
was obtained and the play commenced, 133^ the presentation 
of a tableau entitled the Expulsion of Adam and Eve from 
Paradise. I confess the beauty of this tableau sent a 
thrill through me, and I looked forward -00 the next scene 
T7ith great interest. Then follov;ed the greeting of the 
Prologue, which was succeeded by another tableau entitled 
The Adoration of the Cross. All thus far has been pre- 
paratory to the first Act which opens with the triumphal 
entry of Christ into Jerusalem. In this act fully 400 
people are upon the stage at once, and the hosannaiis and 
shouts of triumph make a truly dramatic opening to the 
play. To give a full list of the acts and various scenes 
and tableaux v;ould require many pages, I can therefore 
onl;' give a sumiriary of them and explain the action. 
Briefly the play is of 18 acts each of which is preceded 
by a speech from the prologue followed by a chorale of 
the chorus of thirty or more voices. Interspersed between 



■118- 



tlie various scenes of the pla^ are twenty-two tableaux, 
all viTith few exception, "l^eing incidents from the old 
testament. Now it cmst be evident that a plaj'' of this 
length is a tremendous affair, comparable only to the 
old Greek tragedies. In its printed foim it m£i,kes a 
book of 136 finely printed pages. And its presentation 
takes eight hours. Fortunatelj'- there is an entre act at 
midda;/ of two hours whidi gives the audience a respite 
sufficient to eat a good luncheon in order to sustain 
them for the afternoon performance. As for myself, I was 
tired out by the end of the first half and had I not 
been induced to do so , I would not have returned to the 
theatre . 

Although the vlay has many moinents of dramatic 
action, the progress of events (happenings) is greatly 
retarded by the infernally long speeches of the Prologue 
and the dreary chants of the chorus. Music is alv;ays a 
delightful relief to intense dramatic action, but the 
chorals as sung, had the reverse effect notwithstanding 
the fact that the music was well composed and fairly v/ell 
interpreted }^'j an orchestra of tvrentjr-eight instruments. 
Purthenaore the introduction of ni;i3berless tableaux 
greatljr retarded the action. As these with fe\r exceptions 
had little or no relation whatever to the storj'' of the 
Passion of Chribt, their exclusion v/ould have advanced 



-119- 



the action Greatl". llorr man:' autliors have from xine to 
time had a hand in the writing and rev/riting of the text, 
I do net kno'.v. Ho'.rover, draiLaticall;', the pla;- coiai-^ences 
at the corrent poin-:; and the scene in which Giiriso drives 
the Eionev chaiigers fron the tenple starts cr/ase and effect 
at once in action, j^rom this point forvfard the scenes 
follov; tlie stor;- of the nev; testeunent v;ith great fidelity 
concludir.-^ \7ith a heautiful tahleau of the ascension of 
Christ into Hea,ven. 

Of the acting, declaruation and stage manageiaent it 
is only possible to spe::k in tei^s of highest praise, 
and it is therefore not difficult to understand why the 
average observer hecoL-ies so enthusiastic about the per- 
formance. But aside from the remarkably successful cast- 
ing of the play and the acting, the lighting of the stage; 
v.'as uneq'Jial to that of the modern theatre. I confess I 
T.-as disappointed at this, for I had expected much of the 
ooen air setting, Tjhich in the Greek draraa, gave it such 
a characteristic atnosphere. Doubtless the costumes and 
ensemble effects v/ere vastl;'- superior to those of the 
ancient drar^a, and Lis.ny of the stage pictures v/ere v/orthy 
of a painter. I'evertheless, the lagging of the dracjatic 
action wea,ried the audience, and long before the entre 
act of miuday v/as reached it was plain that the play was 
losing its grip upon the multitude. 



-120- 



After luncheon we returned to the theatre and at 
two o'clock precisely the play recommenced, 'When I en- 
tered the auditorium from the clear air without, "che viti- 
ated atmosphere t/ithin the theatre nearly choked me. It 
seems incredible that the place had not "been ventilated 
during the entre act, nevertheless that v/as the case. 
Notwithstanding the fact that the second half of the play 
was by far the most dramatic, I noticed many about me 
yf'.vming and atteii^pting by various means to keep a-.7ake. As 
for myself, an uncontrollable desire to doze came upon me, 
and after an hour or so I fell asleep. This is a sad con- 
fossion, but true nevertheless. Fortunately an entre act 
of a few moments gave me an opportunity to escape and I 
left the theatre, never to retizrn again. 

It v.'as perhaps four o'clock in the afternoon when I 
left the theatre and being chilled to the bone sought a 
restaurant to get a cup of hot coffee. To my surprise 
there was no one about. I finally found a waiter asleep 
in the kitchen and after the refreshing influence of the 
coffee started off for a tramp into the countrjr. 

Til/liat highv/ay I followed, I do not kno^7, but the sun 
came out to cheer me and I had proceeded several miles up 
, the valley to a place vrhere a mountain stream ran lazily 

; through a prettj'- meadow and v;as resting upon a mossy rock j 

i I 

I 

■when I heard the merry laughter of children near by. There 



-121- 



vere perlia':.s a dozen ;'ou:ig clailtlren of froL'i V.70 xo six 
years of are accoLipcr.ied by a 'rer;- pre"ct7 £irl of twenty, 
T7iio was playing tlie little motlier, "v/liile the parents of 
the children v/ere at the play. She had evidentl;* brought 
theri into this sunny valley to gather wild flowers. 
Plither and thitlier the youjigsters rem, gathering a flo\.'er 
here and another there, and when finally the3- had secured 
a handful, they would run toward their little laother and 
hand the-n to her receiving a loving embrace for their 
pains, It was a Tprezzj sigiit and as I sat in contempla- 
tion, watching the love -ohis young girl bestowed upon 
her little fa;riil3^, I siailed as I thought of those cynics 
who define love as the laemor;- or anxicipation of the 
gratification of sex. Such definitions are like those 
who make theia false and earthl;^, and had any one with a 
heart, v/itnessed the beautiful scene I liave describedj 
they would have been obliged to adrriit that love is some- 
thing greater, deeper, more beautiful than that, some- 
thing far beyond the power of words to define. How long 
I remained in the sequestered spot, I do not remember, 
I only recall ohe mad honking of automobile horns as one 
after ano":iier in a wild race a dozen or more passed us en 
route for Munich. Slov;ly I took my way homeward and 
again at seven o'clock our little group gathered about 
the host's table. To my surprise, the conversation seemed 



-122- 



to lag, notv/'i 13.13 tandj.ng the excellent dinner tiie hostess 
had served. Of course eventually xhe talk driJToed to 
the play, and the sun of the different opinions ma:'' "be 
gathered in the terse statement of a" friend when he said: 
"I would not have iQissod seeing it for a hundred dollars, 
but I would not take a thousand to' see it again." This 
sta'cemcnt does not accord with the opinion of W. T. stead, 
"but it fcAtly represents, the judgment of' the .average ob- 
server. The truth is the play is miich too long, and the 
traged;', although an illusion, is nerve racking at best. 
I was therefore not sorrj- to have missed tlie crucifixion, 
and v;ould not have exchanged my walk in the. hills for the 
tragic scenes, v:hich have brought the actors the praises 
of ICings and Queens. That ni^t we all retired early to 
rest. Fatigued by the strenuous events of the cLbly, 1 

; remembered nothing until the next morning when I heard 
the stentorian voice of the town crier ordering the visi- 

' tors out of town. I did not need a second call, but 
arose end awaking '.riiy companions, we descended to break- 

I fast, paid our bill and bade farewell to Herr Gfibel and 

' his wife. On the ?:ay to the Railway statioii I passed the 
very picturesque house of Anton Lang, the Chris tus. Al- 
though it was an early hour, many of the tourists were 
frequenting his establishment buying souvenirs and con- 
versing with the master. Such is fame.' For my part I 



-125- 



regard \7i~l- disdain "he a^i'citude of those people, who 
linni2:e, siL'iple thov.gh oalented peasants, siaply "because 
f.-.e:* have acted in the Passion Play. It is true that 
many cf ~he performers are men and women of rare talent 
and good education, "but it )nust he remembered that the 
very oeav.tiful and dramatic speeches they declaim have 
"been written hy great and good men and the actors only 
interpret them to the audience. Regarded from the view- 
poiiit drciuatic art the play ranks favorably vrith the best 
ancient tragedies ";hat have been performed within recent 
years. I'cs defects I have already mentioned, but there 
is one insurmountable obstacle which the art of man can- 
not overcome, and that is the impossibility of adequately 
portra-ing the character of Christ. I do not say this 
to disparage in any vmy, the excellent acting of Mr. Anton 
Lang, for I doubt if any modern actor could have done 
better, but as is well knovm to the practical dramatist, 
the borderland bstv;een illusion and reality is very 
frail. And if the audience canno":, through a previous 
conception oi" Christ's character, accept the illusion, 
the play misses its mark. However it does not follow 
that because this is my opinion that it v;ill be the opin- 
ion of otlicrs. Each must decide for himself. 

With this thought I boarded the train for Munich and 
after an uneventful ride we reached our Hotel, the Savoy, 



-124- 



A" 
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Mil 

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y^ii/z cheriy 



SPec^s foeu.e AjUc'i/ficu s 



in time for lunclieon. 



HimiCH . 

Munich is situated on an exvensivo plateau on the 
"banks of the Isar at an altitude of 1700 feet above the 
level of the sea. It is the third largest city in Germany 
having a population of 556,000 inliabitants , and "being 
the capital of Bavaria, ranks high in wealth cocimerce and 
art. 

After the 3?ranco -Prussian war when Kaiser Willielm der 
Groase and Bismarck v;elded the 22 discordant Lukedome 
Dutchies, Principalities and Palitanates, and the four 
Kingdoms of Prussia, ¥urtemburg, Saxony and Bavaria into 

the Great Gennan Empire, they ouilded better than they j 

I 
knew. Ever since that day the German star has been in 

the ascendant, until today the population of United Germany 
is estimated at 65,000,000, and the amount of their manu- 
factures and exports are now quoted in billions. Unques- 
tionably Germany is the most prosperous and progressive 
country in Europe, notwithstanding the Vi^onderful advance 
of Stance and Austra-Hungax-j'-, I have not time to enter 
into the many causes that have operated so successfully 
to produce this result within a period of 40 years. 



-125- 



Suffice i", a -.^isG and masterful acbr.inistration of the 
la.vj3, ii protectix'e tariff, and above all, a drastic re- 
vision of t'jie educational s^'stea of the s~a":c, }iave all 
aided materially to this end. As an exaitple of the 
present ayazoni of education a ■7ord about that of iiunich 
must si;.fiice. At present education is cor:.::ul3ory until 
the Bch.olar has attained to Ic years of aje . Afrer that 
there are tlie continuing- schools rrhere all zlie traces and 
arts are tau"Jat. The cor.pleteness of uhe curriculu.ii of 
these schools is ajaazing and includes every -rade and 
art from hair-dressing to house building and engineerinc* 
A three years course in one of these schools puts the 
student at the aje of 21 in the ptrcductive class '.7here 
he Liay at once 1)6001x16 a bread \7inner. It is therefore 
no~ surprising tliat the Creri:ian Craftsirian of today are the 
best trained nen in the vrorld. As for the popularity of 
these hunicipal Schools the follov/ing figures will be il- 
Ivx.inating. The present municipal schools educate 
70,000 students per ann^Jiiu, vd-.ilst the total nienibership 
of the private schools of liunich onl:' amount to 300 
scholai's. Prot. this it irill be seen ?/hat an important 
part tlie educational systeii of the state plays in the 
life of the people. 

Architecturally, Munich is 0, curious coiibination of 
the old and t2:e new. Llanv successive d-"Tiasties have 



-125- 



added their laite toimrd the beautification of the citj". 
But It was during the reign of LudvTig I, the son of 
Maximilian I: who died in 1868, that the city attained 
to its present dignity, A magnificent patron of art 
King Ludwig I causod the city to be embellished with 
most of the handsome churches and palatial secular edi- 
fices which r,re now the chief boast of the Bavarian 
Capital. In its treasures of art, Munich has accumulated 
so much that is rare and interesting, that today the 
city is ranked artistically first in the Empire. I con- 
fess this statement greatly surprised me, for I had al- 
ready seen the collections of Dresden and Berlin and 
could hardly believe that a tovm of the size of Munich 
could have accumulated so much treasure. The statement 
however is quite correct, and I doubt if two weeks would 
suffice to visit the galleries, uiusevims, technical 
schools, palaces and important churches which grace the 
city. Por my part I onl;^ saw the galleries of ancient 
and modern art, and the beautiful New national Museizm. 
This latter is built in the new part of the city and is 
located upon a beautiful boulevard as fine as any in 
Paris. It would be difficult to describe the wealth of 
rare objects gathered within this mass of buildings, 
but some idea of the extent of the collection can be 
obtained when one is told that it takes three hours or 



-127- 



iTiOrc t-o 'valk ~iirou~li the various rooms. I liad nacle a 
rr-pid aur^e;'- of the lever floors an I 'beconing T/eairy ^7as 
aljou" to return to "he ho~el r;hen, a si^n at a stairT;Tay 
near the -op floor of the "ouildins, attracted m;- atten- 
tion. Ever curious, I inounted the stairway and found 
Himself in a rast scries of rooms, containing man;- models 
of erupts. These cvypzs are all miniature iiiodels of ^he 
visit of the liagi to the Clirist Child at Bethlehem and 
are i.-icun^ad and lighted artificially in such a clever 
laanner that the;,- give one the impression of looking upon 
a tahleau or landscape. Some of them T;ere evidently 
modeled 'oy artists of rare ahility and the T;ealth of de- 
tail, heautiful grouping and coloriiig, rendered an illu- 
sion that T/as truly s-orprising. The collection was in- 
deed E surprise to me for I had never seen an^'thing of 
the kind hefore. 

It would require much tirae to give a list of the 
principal mon^Jiments and puolic Duildings of the cit^--. 
IIo"^sver, the new Ho.tliiiaus or Git;?- Hall, is especially/ 
v/orthy of mention. This beautiful "building is in the 
Gotl-ic style so dear to the Gennans, and is something to 
be proud of. It is nearly as large as the hotel de VUle 
of Paris and to my mind much more beautiful. But enough 
of the city and its buildings; in the last analyses it 
is tlie people who have produced these that interest most. 

-128- 



And to sec the inlaalDitants one must either meet them In 
their homes, or else find them at the resorts they fre- 
quent. I therefore took one of m;"- friends and drove to 
the Sxhihition of Decorative Arts located in a pretty 
park ahout a mile from Karl Platz , the centre of the 
town. It was a beautiful afternoon and my enthusiasm 
knew no bounds irhen I entered the gate and looked upon 
the groups of buildings \7hich compose this unique exliibi- 
tion. All was L'Art ITouveau. Buildings, Cafes, Kiosks 
and the thousand end one minor details of landscape v/hich 
lend such charm to architecture. A stringed orchestra 
Vfas playing a lively waltz when we entered, and seated 
about in little groups v/ere the elite of the city, tak- 
ing their afternoon coffee and cakes, as is their custom. 
It was surely a pretty sight and as I Y/atched the family 
groups, and noted the many little courtesies they extended 
to one another, I began to understand why wc crude Ameri- 
cans enjoir the society of our foreign neighbors. At 
night time the e:diibition grounds were lighted by thou- 
sands of electric lights hidden among the trees and 
shrubs. Miilst in a large open court a militarj^ band 
attracted man:' by the excellent selections it played. 
A variety theatre and other attractions were included in 
the group of buildings which on the v/hQlp- were the best 
examples of L'Art ilouveau Architecture I saw during my 



-125- 



trip r.liroad. 

It T.'as nearly -olie hour of table d'lioto V7h.en.t7c re- 
turned -0 our i.otGl to find it thronged with AiJerican 
touris-3. The patron told me that he scctcd and fed two: 
hundred in "he dining- roorri that evenin.^, and I can well j 
l:olieve it from the tabel of voices that nearly drovmed 
the C-^^psy orchestrr. while the courses were being served. 

As wc cpjae out of the dining room wg heard z'ne 
strains of another orchestra necir "by, and passing throug]{i 
n c^^azed. door on 'che right fo^und ourselves in an intense 
cafe -chronged vritli psoplc of the town. ?his cafe was a 
part of our ho'cel and was conducted hy the same propri- 
Gt.or Morr Bauer. A part of the large room was given over 
to six milliard tables which were ell in active opera- 
tion. Another secGion was reserved as a restaurcnt, 
while the inain part of tlie establishment was filled with 
tables where innumerable parties v;ere seated, drinking 
their beer or ea.ting ref reslunents . An orchestra, com- 
posed of two first violins, a cello and a double bass, a 
piano, a. flute and a reed organ, occupied a platforxa zo 
the riglit of the ucln entrance. These artists played a 
rcir^arkable variety of music, and the dash with which they 
essayed the Viennese v;altses completely v^on me. ^Iiile I 
stood v/atching the Bohemian crowd the proprietor came up 
to me and noting my interest asked me how mcixiy people I 

-130- 




»-^ r^ 



Mun/'c/, . 



inagined were in the room at that time. I replied a"bout 

t^70 hundred. "ITo", he said, "there are nore than that, 

for v/e have already served four hundred. Wlienever there 

is an eiript;r table it v/ill find some one read;.' v/aiting 

for i-. You see, our place is popular." Indeed it was, 

and as I now look back at the scene, I marvel at the 

food and drink that was consumed that night. Love, 

laughter and good cheer were the inspiration that drev/ 

them there. And although the beer flov/ed like vmter, and 

the frankfurters and sauerkraut vanished like dew before 

a suiiiTiier sun,- yet there was no disorder or intoxication. 

Could the saiTie be said of a similar establishment in this 

countrj'-? I doubt it. 

Hunich being the home of the celebrated brev; of that 

name I desired to see the Hofbrau house before leaving 

town. We chose however to visit the Deutches "Theatre 

instead. Here was another establishment as thoroughly 

Bohemian as our hotel and cafe. Imagine a large theatre 

in which the orchestra, the balconies and boxes are furn- , 

I 
ished v;ith tables seating four, six or eight persons. Con-^ 

ceive if you can the establisliment filled with men and 

women eating and drinking and smoking whilst a vaudeville i 

entertainment is in progress on the stage, and you may 

have some faint idea of the picture. I think our party j 

|-v/ere the only foreigners present that niglit, for when the 



-131- 



cntre act occurred we seethed to ""db quite out of i'c, aaiong 
the throng of army officers and gaily dressed ladies v;ho 
promenaded tlio foyer.. 

But alas <•' Our days in Munich were drav/ing to a 
close. Sunday, July tlie 31s 'c had r.rrived, already half 
our vacation had paosed and on the morrow we were to 
take "lie express to Vienna. 



-152- 



EIT ROUTE TO VI EJITA. _ | 

It was a beautiful morning wlien we awoke the next 
de.7, and after our coffee and rolls, we paid our bill ' 
and bade goodb^re to Herr Bauer. Arriving at the depot I 
was surprised to find ouch a crowd awaiting the train. j 
It seeiaed impossible that a single train could accommodate 
them. Yet I am not av/r.re that any v/ere left behind. By 
nine o'clock the express drew slowly out of the station 
and with a sigh of regret we bade farewell to ISunich. 

It is regrettable that modern journalism seems to 
thrive on sensationalism. Ihen a writer's story is lack- 
ing in this qiiality, the editor deplores the invention 
of the author, and nine tines out of ten the mos is 
returned with thanks. How it is not difficult to fill a 
narrative auch as I am writing, with adventures that 
never occurred, and jokes that never were cracked. But 

: with such methods I have no patience whatever. Sinceri- 
ty is the essense of all real art, and the best writers 
never descend to deception in order to entertain. I am 
therefore recounting my experiences as they occurred, not 

; as the;- miglit have happened. | 

Our route to Vienna lay through Rosenheim to Salzberg, 



-133- 



the Austrian frontier. It was about tv;elve o'clock v/hen 
we arrived in the oeautiful nev; SLation of Salzberg and 
I v;ould gladly liave "broken our journey there had out 
tine permitted. 3u'o fortunately- v/e decided to proceed. 
Therefore, I -.Tent to the Customs to pass our baggage, 
v.v.ile the youn^ men accotipanjring me atterapted to get 
so'iaething to eat. An hour is usually allov;ed the pass- 
engers to pass the custons and get wheir luncheon. Had 
v/e been allovjed tr:ice that tiirie i~ v;ould not have suf- 
ficed 30 great Y^as the crowd at the stcoion. Already a 
half hour had passed and our trunks had not been brought 
into the examining room. Becoming nervous at the delay 
I returned to the platform and found them la3'-ing beneath 
a mass of baggage mountain high. In vain I appealed to 
the porters to get them out and cc.rry them to the exam- 
ining room, lly apyeal v;as useless, either the3- did not 
understand or did not wish to. Portunatel^'- an Inter- 
pre-^er appeared upon the scene and I explained my pre- 
dicaraent to h.im, passing him a mark at the same time. 
Tiie effect of this little courtesy v/as electrical. In a 
Jiffy our trunks were pulled from out the mass of baggage ; 
a.nd brought before the examiners who passed them in short 
order, and a few moments later v/e and our trunks were 
enroute to Vienna. j 

"Tlie country about Salsberg is open rolling land 



—1 "yA — 



"beautifully tilled. At every turn are to be seen hand- ' 
some fanahouses and imposing barns indicating a wealthy 

peasantry. As we proceeded toward the tovm of V7ol8 the 

1 
land became richer and more fertile. From thence it 

slopes gradually, until it reaches the valley of the 

Danube uponv^ich is located the Cit3'- of Linz. This town 

is the most important in this section of the country 

and does a flourishing trade; being located on the ! 

Danube it has daily communication with points north and 

South by water, and excursionists can proceed from this 

point to Vienna by s'ceamer if they prefer. We chose to 

continue on, and as we neared the river were not sorry 

vre had decided to do so. So much poetic exaggeration 

has been written about the beautiful Blue Danube that 

our expectations ran high. Certainly the first view of 

I 
the river was disappointing. Througla miles of flat 

meadow land a muddy clay-colored stream wound its way | 

toward some rolling hills in the distance. Uot a boat 

was visible and it was hours before we passed a steamer 

upward bound. The country bordering both sides of the 

river has been so denuded of forests that during the 

rainy season the river rises with marvelous rapidity and 

floods along its course are of such frequent occurrence 

as to be commonplace. 

The route of our railway followed approximately that 



-135- 



of "'.le river and gave us a i'air iupression of the sur- 
roundinc country, r;l:ich is as fertile as an;' in Prance or 
Spain. About 6:50 p.iii. •:ve spied upon a high hill over- 
looking the Danuce , Klosoer 7ev7"burg - a uost imposing 
::ias3 of ouilclinf^s conparable onl" to soLie of the great 
jjonas'..eric3 in Spain. As this celebrated inonaster;/ is ; 
onl:' about t^.irty j.^ileB from Vienna our journey v/as soon 
at an end. At 7:50 p.ia. we entered the Cit,y Station ano. 
8:50 p.m. precisely xwelve 'aours from the time of our 
departure az Ilunicl'. , v/e founc. ourselves at vhe Hotel 
?ris"ol on the Ring Straaser, completely wearied oy our 
day's journey. 



-156- 




e/7nou . 



Qj te/a.n,sJ(/rc/ie, 



VIEFIIA 

It is quite impossible to give a description of , 
Vienna in a few paragraphs , and the same remarlc is j 
equally applica^ble to Paris, Berlin or London. All 
these cities are so large and have such a wealth of in- 
terest that voluminous guide "books aro necessary to 
record them. I 

The present year being the Diamond Jubilee of the 
accession to the throne of Emperor Joseph I. much atten- 
tion has been attracted t;o Vienna. A reign of sixty 
years ia a remarkable one at best, but when we compare 
the city of sixty yetxTs ago with the Vienna of today the 
Austrians have good reason to be proud of their capital. I 
Today it is a city of 2,000,000 inlaabitants, with a com- I 
merce that has grown at a tremendous pace. Located upon 
flat meadow lands bordering the Danube the city was fre- I 
quentl;' inundated by floods until the present Danube , 

canal was built. At present the town has grown up to the 

i 
canal upon the borders of which are built many handsome i 

business houses, hotels and apartmeiita. 

The climate of Vienna is approximately'' that of New 

York. Its altitude above the sea 436 feet, giving it a 



-137- 



slijl.': advantage over our cit". I'everTSlieless during the 
su:i:er "ilie temperatures T\m as liiili as ITeT; York, and the 
•waria reception v:e received v;iiile there, discouraged us 
froij goin^- south to Euda Pcs^h. 

C?l-:.e Cfi'icial Guide sa; a "I'c v/as not unoil the Im- 
perir.l edic- ci lc57, oh-:-,t the ci'c;' oegan to at":ain -c 
its -.resent digni":,-. The old citj-- v/alls and glacis ".Tere 
then des~ro:-ed and in their place was buil" ohe present 

F.ing, v/liich the Viennese clain ~o be xhe uost beautiful 

I 

stree" in the vorld." I do not -^ish to dispute theia, 
ifor it is cer-ainl7 a noble and dignified thorouglifare 
unlihe thr.t of any o':;her cit^-. But once off it we find 
ourselves in a t-pical jaodern city, lacking in ohe charac- 
ter of ol'i^er to"7ns. Hov/ever, there is one excepxion; 
I r^fer :^c the haria Theresien Plats vhich is en-ered froxn 
I the r.ing and is justly the nobles': square in E-orope. The 
sisG of "his square is enomous . In the center of an 
open pai-k stands a colossal bronze i^ioniJiaent erected zo 
the xuemor:- of ilaria Theresa; beautifully surrounded by 
gardens. Cn ^^.e right of -oh is square is the lluseuiii of 
his-cric Art and on the left the Iluseum of iCatural His- 
jtory, whilst at the enil are other public buildings fona- 
I ing a group riios-b iiaposing and artistic. All the buildings 
are designed in -he classic style so dear to Christopher 
'.Vrenn, and their in"oeriors were quite as beautiful as the 



-158- 



architecture of their exteriors. 

The Rathhaus is also a very beautiful building of 
Gothic design and the Hofburg Theatre and the Hofoper - 
or Opera House, are justlj' famous. In point of historic 
interest however, the Stefans Kirche, or Church of St. 
Steven, is the most important edifice in Vienna. It 
dates from the year 1300 and was so long in building 
that it was not completed until the year 1510. The 
total length of this edifice is 118 yards and the height 
of the nave 89 feet. The extraordinary lofty nave, with 
its 18 massive supporting columns, gives this church its 
rare distinction. I remember entering it late one after- 
noon as the sun was setting. There was no light in the 
c'hurch except that which filtered through the tall lancet 
windows. Groping my waj'- cbout I finally found a pew and 
sat for a moment in reverie. A priest was reciting mass 
at one of the side altars, the monotonous drawl of his 
voice, broken every now and then by the tinkling bell of 
the acolyte producing a most dramatic effect. I can well 
understand why this building has been so often mentioned 
by tourist, when greater buildings have been forgotten. 
There is a dramatic effect produced by its proportions and 
lighting, which completely transports one on entering for 
the first time. The architecture of pointed Gothic is 
good but not as beautiful as other cathedrals I have seen, 



-139- 



while its roof of black and red tiles is as u^ly and 
discordant a co:nbination as •ne can imagine. Tlae tower, 
hovfsver, rises to the extraordinary height of 435 feet 
from the ground. 

But T7hy atteiapt to give even a suggestion of the 
architecture of Vienna. It is too large a task and photo- 
graphs speak through the eye with more enduring effect 
than \Yord3 can ever hope to do . 

Desiring to see the city and onjoy an afternoon in 
the open, vie ordered a carriage and drove to Sclioenbrunn, 
the residence so intimately associated with Empress llaria 
Theresa. Tliis castle is at present occupied by the 
Etaporor Joseph I, and it is here that tlae groat recep- 
tions of state are held. Although the Hofburg in the 
City has also seen many brave events during his reign, 
the castle is interesting because of its beautiful loca- 
tion, and the gorgeous decoration of many of the salons. 
These are kept in excellent preservation and lighted by 
electric lamps, yet strange to sa;'' the ancient porcelain 
stoves are still used "co heat tlie various rooms. The 
gardens are beautifully maintained and on the whole it 
is a castle v/orthj* of an Emperor, 

Prom Schoenbrunn we drove to the Exhibition grounds 
on the opposite side of tiie city passing througla m&nz^ 
uninteresting and dirty streets. Pinally after an hour's 



-140- 



drive the coachiaan stopped "before a cafe in the Tir Garden 
and we got out for our afternoon coffee and cakes. A I 
largo militar3^ "band occupied one side of the gaxden, while ; 
a Gypsy orchestra held forth in an opposite kiosk. As we ' 
entered, the Gypsy hand was playing the Blue Danube Waltz. 
Tlie strains of which made me lau^i when I contemplated its 
age. IJevertheleos the audience seemed to enjoy it as 
much as if it had only been vrritten a year ago. 

The Viennese are a QQ.y and light hearted people. "In 
the days when Metternich suppressed free thouglat, Strauss 
and Lanner revived the drooping spirit of the people by 
their vivacious waltzes and set all feet tripping to 
their seductive strains. Thus while mouths were gagged, 
the populace gave vont to their feelings in the dance." 
"While the Viennese waltz is known the world over, it is 
not generally known that the great composers Haydn, 
Beevhoven, Mozart, Bruckner and Braiims lived and worked 
here, and their works are intimately associated with the 
gay Viennese. 

Although Vienna lias been the home of the Secession 
Movement in art and architecture, the only exhibition of 
these artists I sav: was in Munich. As for their L'Art 
I\?ouveau Architecture there are but few examples to be 
seen in Vienna, altliough the most celebrated Secessionists 
are either Viennese or have been trained there. 



-141- 



One often hears enthusiastic admirers of Vienna comparing 
it \7ith Paris. Aside from the similarity of its archi- 
tecture the conparison iB absurd. One miglit as well com- 
pare Philadelphia v;ith Hew York. Boti are large cities, 
"bU" '^here is more enterprise, ccmL'ierce and activity'- in 
GothEun in a day than takes place in Philadelphia in a 
month, -he night before we left I took a V7alk a mile or 
30 up the brillian-013/ lighted Ring in the hope of seeing 
some movement such as one sees on "che boulevards in 
Paris. Although it v:as only ten o'clock at nigiit, the 
thorouglifare r/as deserted. I therefore returned to the 
035 ra and passed up Karntner Strasser, the Broadway of 
the Cit3'. On this thoroughfare and those radiating from 
±z, are located the beautiful shops of the city. To my 
amasement, I did not pass a dozen persons in my walk of a 
mile or more through this brilliantly lighted district. 
YTnere were the people? At the Tir Gardens and Exhibition, 
my friends replied. Pei-haps.' But in Paris one would 
not have to ask this question for the boulevards are the 
life of the city. j 

i 



-142- 



/(btr/s^/rc/n 







/^r/sjo/ciZ-z 



BOHEBilA 

August the third had arrived and with enohuaiasm a- 
noT/ we boarded the train for Prague, the capital of 
Bohemia. 

The correct designation of that vast territory which 

i we call Austria, is the Austra-Eungarian Empire. The 

i 

' Official Guide says, "It is divided into two distinct and 

nearly independent groups of provinces, each group having 

a government of its own, -cdiile the central govorniaenx of 

the whole empire is maintained in Vienna. The provinces 

differ much in nationality, race, language and religion, 

of which about one fourth arc Germans, a sixth Magyars 

of Hungary'-, arid the remainder Slaves, Jews, G;/psies and 

Greeks. To the South lies the JLLngdom of Hungary, with 

its beautiful capital, Buda Pesth, five hours ride from 

Vienna, whilst the flingdoia of Bohemia adjoins the Gennan 

boundary on the north-west of the Empire. Its superb 

capital, Prague, 13'ing north of Vienna, seven hours ride."] 

Out course lay due notth through Znaim and Inglau to \ 

Kolin, from thence to Prague. It is difficult to describe 

the beauty and richness of the territory through which we 

passed on this journej'-. The land is not flat like the 



-143- 



t 



plains of Castielle in Spain, hxxz of vast rolling areas, 
nearl" dGVOid of treos, divided, in'co farms of inuiiense 
acreage. The size of tliese farms and the great ;rield of 
grain vhich they produce, I confess surprised ne . I liad 
never seen the like except in "r^he far v/est and was unpre- 
pared to pass through a lane in Europe v;here patent har- 
vesters and steam thrashers were in as active operation as 

I 
in our o".vn country, yet these are the surprises 'chat a- 



wait one and ahcir the advantage of even a hurried trip 
thr ligh Eur p e . 

The day had been overcast when ■we started, but by 
iaidda2' the rain had ceased and sun cane out ■cc gladden us, 
and with the sun cai.ie forth the harvesters to reap and 
garner their grain. Ever;-where, as far as the eye coula 
reach, were peasants v;orking like beavers to secure the 
I golden harvest, Pields of wheat, rji-e, oats and barley, 
Vfith here and there a small section of flax, V7ere visible 
ever;n:irherc . All these, except the meadows, which bordered 
the streajas, were of man;'- shades from burnished gold to 
sombre brown, relieved by xhe verdant green of the clover 
reserved for ■::he pasture of the herds. As our train 
progressed through this El Dorado of the farmer, I v^on- 
dered hov/ many generations liad tilled that soil to pro- 
duce the beautiful fields. And then when I v/ould look 
upon a farm house with its many barns and other buildings j 



-144- 



often forming a colony in themselves, I knew that they 
dated back to the old patriarchal tines vzhen the farm 
house was the center of many industries such as the spin- 
ning and weaving of flax and wool, and when the crafts 
such as smithjr, masonry and carpentering were practiced 
within the farmer's home. Many of these arts, such as 
wine making, cheese making, embroiderj/- and lace making, 
are still in vogue among the farmers and their wives, 
"but the introduction of roachinerj'' has had its effects 
upon these people as upon others, so that one must go 
far to see the perfection to which the old regime 
attained. 

Our train progressed hut slowly among tlie foot hills 
and rolling knolls which like the waves of a mighty ocean 
seemed to sweep the landscape. Often on looking out of 

the window I could see the tracks of our railway, miles 
I 
' away, crawling like a mighty snake, irregularly to a 

i point in the distance. Then after a while I would espy a 

I 

I church spire far away, and a half hour later our train 
i would pass, not through a tiny Alpine village, but through 
; a large and prosperous town, as modern as our ovm and 
usuallji' much more beautiful than those on our western 

i 

plains. Such tovms were Znaim, Inglau and Kolin. If 
j one wishes to see the Bohemian in his native home he 
should stop at one of these to^rns , and drive into the 



-145- 



surrounding country. I 

It was nearl3^ five o'clock \ihen we arrived a* Prague, 
Although soinevdiat weary from our long day's journey, we 
were glad that viq had made it, for from this point for- 
ward, we were nearing home, and that is always something ! 
agreeable to contemplate. 



-146- 



w 

>:r. /Ill 




^v 






I ,•;. 4;,./ /^^'^ '' '' 




-Z-^/e Tk/'nA/f-cAe. 



9> 



mAGUE. 

Like Rome, Prague is built upon seven- liills from 
which fact it has derived the name of Rome of the ITorth. 
"A city of 250,000 inhabitants, it is a place of real 
historical interest and has innianerable evidences of the 
great wealth and power of the Kingdom." Goethe, Humboldt, 
George Brandes and others have written enthusiastically 
about the town and it is surprising our American tourists 
so frequently paaa it \>y. 

Prom the Guide of Prague I quote the following: 
"The Kingdom of Bohemia is counted the most precious jewel 
in the crovm of Auatro-Hungarian monarchy. It was during 
the Pifth eentur^r A.D. that Cech with his tribes of Slaves 
invaded the land which they have dominated ever since," 
They still retain many of the Slav characteristics, and 
the kingdom is often called the land of the Ceclis. To 
us their language is xinintelligible , and the Russian clu-r- 
acters in which it is written and printed does not help 
us to understand it. 

Our hotel "The Arch Puke Stephan," was fortunately 
located on Venceslance Place, the most important square 
in the town, graced on both sides with imposing buildinss 
and dominated from an elevation e^.Jove by the beautiful 



-147- 



Museuia of Bohemia. In the afternoon I walked up past 
the lauseura and seeing a pretty park lying further up on 
the hillside, decided to climb there to obtain a view of 
the city. Though late, the park t/as thronged witli nurse 
laaids and children enjo;.'-ing themselves in all manner of 
games T7hilo many arm;- officers sat about ogling the maids 
and laughing at the children. Perhaps I enjoyed the fun 
as much as they did - at any rate, it was quite late 
when I returned to the hotel, and entering the cafe called 
for a cup of coffee. The room was crowded to its utmost, 
and reeked with the odor of beer and tobacco smoke. At 
last here was a real Bohemian crowd for me, laughing, 
joking, playing chess and checkers whilst thej'' smoked 
their pipes and drank their beer, little they cared for 
the morrow and were enjoying life for the day. Among the 
group were many ladies enjoj^ing the spirit of good cheer 
with the men in a manner trul;'- Bohemian. Compare this 
scene with the alleged Bohemian resor's of our cizy and 
the comparison will not be in our favor. ¥e have not 
yet passed the barbaric age when intoxicatioJi is con- 
sidered a disgrace. The real Bohemian has. Once a 
gentleman, always a gentleman is his motto, and the man 
who does not live up to that standard, soon discovers 
that his acquaintance is undesirable to his friends. 
I Such is social ostracism. 

T 

-148- 







r 




/ 



J..... IK. -"^'^ 



/J 



u 



7 



%^im 













It would seem almost hopeless to get an idea of a city- 
nine Diiles in circvunference in a morning's drive. IToverthe 
less, tlie principal "banks and commercial houses of Prague I 
are located in the heart of the town and a drive through 
the main streets gives one a glimpse of the great wealth 
centered there. Kow many banks and trust companies we 
passed, I do not know. But I noted the Equitable Insur- 
ance Company of ITew York and several other institutions of 
thin kind among the n^amber. All the buildings were sub- 
stantially built and many of them of modern architectural 
design. In the residential part of the city innumerable 
new and beautiful modern apartments were being built, 
giving evidence of the rapid growth of the city. But to 
the tourist the older parts of the town are the most in- 
teresting. Most imposing is the Cathedral with its large 
open square and market. And the quais which border the 
River Ultava which fona a pretty promenade for the people 
and give one a view of the Castle and Cathedral of St. 
Vitus on the opposite side of the stream. Many handsome 
bridges cross the Ultava, the most historic being tlie 
Charles Bridge with a Gothic tower and gateway at each 
end . 

To describe the Cathedral of St. Vitus would require 
many pages and serve but little purpose. The Castle and 
the Cathedral have seen the vicissitudes of many wars 



-149- 



! and the work of restoration is progressing so slovly that 

it may be a century "before it is completed. As a group 

• of medieval architecture fehe buildings are Justly famous 

' and students of architeccure will do well to visit them. 

j It was a long drive up a steep hill to the eathedral, 

and it was therefore nearly*- midday v/hen we returned. But 

I I stole a few minutes to go through the ITational Museum, 

I before luncheon. It is a beautiful building with inter- 

esting collections of all kinds. IHost gratifying to me 

v/as the series of twenty or more tableau?: of the peasants 

of Bohsiaia in the native costumes of their provinces, 

I su:rrounded by examples of the products of their industry, 
i 
These included the arts of spinning and weaving, pottery 

making, embroidery and lace work and many other crafts 
for which the peasantry have become famous. 

But our flying visit to Prague is at an end. A 
htirried luncheon and wo were soon on our Miay to the Hail- 
way that was to take us to Dresden. 



-150- 



\ 







m i k 




Terrassenufef 



DRESrESr. 

"Jot long after leaving Prague our course led inio 
the valle-r of the Elbe. At its souroe it is a narrow 
streari following a serpentine course through rolling hills 
until ati:aining volume and velocity, it becomes a stream of 
inporoance, rushing like the Rhine through rock-bound 
shores, bh-jn through the mountain ranges known as the 
Saxon Switiierland. 

The journe;'- by rail although picturesque does not 
give one the same impression that a trip by steamer would 
do; and if one has the time the boat trip will well repay 
for the day's delay. But ours being a flying educational 
trip, rather than a siommer outing for pleasure only, we 
con-cinued on by rail and at four o'clock reached Borden- 
bach, the German frontier-, ¥e were not long delayed here, 
but one of our passengers had a hot discussion with the 
Custom officials before his trunk was passed by them, 
fortunately, he being a Geraan, was able t:o fight for hia 
rights and eventually won. 

The incident reminded me of an episode that occurred 
to a fellow passenger when in 1S91 we v/ere traveling 
from Paris to Ba'Teuth to hear the Wagner operas. ¥c had 



-151- 



taken f.ie nigli* train direct and ny coiripanion, a young 
FrencliLian, wh.0 had "been very entertaining on the trip, 
requested the guard to pass his baggage for him v/hen we 
reached the frontier. The guard, hc\7ever, declined and 
at 2 p.n. V7e were ushered out into a dimly lighted sta- 
tion to av/ait our trunks. Liine was one of the first to 
arrive and after a slight examination hy the officia,l v/as 

passed a,nd taken hack to the t?'ain. I retired to my bed , 

i 
and was i.ioinentarily awaiting ny "companion de voyage", | 

-.Then to r.y surprise the train drew out of the depot with- 
out him. I asked the guard v^i-hat had become of the 
Prenchman and was told that he had failed to declare a 
five pound box of chocolate caramels, which he was taking 
to some friends. I laughed at this and could scarcely 
credit the incident, but was assured that his offense 
was a very grave one end that ten to one he v/ould have to 
spend the niglit at the station and pay a fine besides. 
Such is fate.* ?or my part, I never have had any diffi- 
cult;'- in passing any frontier in Europe and I have passed 
the most of them - some many times. Yet friends of mine j 
have liad very different tales co relate. I can only 
account for this by the fact that I travel only with such 
cloth.ing as is necessary and never purchase anything 
en route tliat is liable to duty. I am thus quite within 

I 

my rights and when the official demands my declaration can 



-152- 



give it v^ith the conviction tlir.t I must be sUotained. 

ITov; these officials arc almost without exception excellent 

judges of hioiaan nature and seem to knot; "by intuition the \ 

i 
I I 

j people vfAO nish to evade the law. Consequentl;'- those who 

'' are too clever eventually find themselves in their net, 

i 
and few indeed deserve ejiy s^^apathjr. 

As Di'esden is so w'ell kno\Tn to Ariericans I shall 

only relate e. few incidents and proceed on our journey. 

It had been nineteen j^ears since ny last visit, and I was 

therefore not surprised to see the city nearlj"- doubled in 

size. Today it is a tovm as large as Munich covering 

many square miles on both sides of the Elbe. Being the 

capital of the Kingdom of Saxony--, it hcs alwaj'-s held c 

high place in commerce, art and letters. The resident 

' Aaierican colony, I was told, often cjaounted to forty or 

I fifty thousand per annum and as these people come to 

! study and reside for mon'chs at a time, the revenue to the 

town from this source must be very considerable. 

Located on the Elbe and occupying the old palace 

of the King of Saxony, are the art galleries and museums 

of Dresden. This art collection is justly famous and 

contains come examples of ancient art of priceless value. 

' ITevertheless, the collection is small compared to that 

; of the Louvre in Paris. But the art objects collected 

in the museum called the Green Vault, I thinlc vfill compare 



-153- 



faroracly with tliat of ohe Musee Cluney. Tlie extraordin- 



ary' collection of silver end "old, bronze and enaiiels 
that are gathered in these email roor.is defy dcscrip~ion. 
Ancng ■chera all perhaps the crovm jewels cf Saxony attract 
inost attention. These ceexn ever to he a source of won- 
der, "but I confess to little interest in then, for the 
reason that the stones selected are so largo that they 
appear unnr.tural. I recall one necklace of thirtj'' or 
i^ore diamonds J the smallest of which would weigh many 
cara"cn, the total producing a chain cf several pounds 
weight. Such cumbersome jewelrj'- is neither beautiful 
nor practical, but it has that sordid quality, intrinsic 
worth, which scorns to be a sufficient excuse for its ex- 
istence. 

On a bright summer afternoon iz is very p].easant to 
walk down the quay to the Eelvedere, a high terrace over- 
looking the Elbe, and listen to the orchestra hidden therfe 
among the mulberry trees. This is the rendezvous of the 
elite of the town who come here for their coffee and 
cakes in the afternoon, a:id often remain to dine in the 
open- The view up and dovm the river from this point is 
very pretty. Directl;^ opposite lies the new city v/ith its 
many bcautifu]. publi.c buildings, parks and open squares. 
The gro'.vth of the citj' in this direction is surprising, 
but to my taste the residential quarter of the old town 

-154- 



where the English and American colonies reside is 1:0 be 
preferred. In this quarter are to be found i;he schools 
and academies and the fine shops and hotels are near at 
hand . 

It would he difficult to Ciention the import;ant 
buildings in Ta-esden, there are so man;'; but. the new 
."RatMiaus or Git;/ Ha,ll, is one of the finest exaniples of the 
sane laodern G-erman architecture I saw while abroad. Cov- 
ering a ver:* large area, its facade facing a prett;'- park, ' 
i it looas up with its red tiled roof and loft^- tower to a, 
1 great height and it v^ould seem that its interior jnight 
accoianodate a veritable arra:'' of officials. 

Our hotel, dignified by the title of "The Palace", 
happened to be located beside the Central station said to 
be the largest in Geraan;-. \?hile I have no complaint to 
make against the hotel, the treiaendous amount of traffic 
passing through this station, made the location undesir- 
able and we therefore decided to go on to Berlin on 
Monday, the 9th of August. In the aieantime, Sunday had 
arrived and as this is alvmys a quiet day in Dresden, we 
asked the porter if it was not possible to hear some good 
music before leaving. "Oh yes," he replied, "I v/ill se- 
cure the tickets." Wlien we went to pa^?" for them, imagine 
our surprise to find them for Strauss 's opera "The Gr^psy 
Baron". Suiidaj' Opera is therefore quite permissible 



-15(3- 



while Sunday shop-keeping is not. However, desiring to 
■ see the perfcrmance, rre were driven to the nev/ opera 
house on the opposite side of the city, and to our sur- 
prise, found it crowded wi"ch the elite of the town. The 
arraT"- of arm;/ officers and heautifully govmed v/oman made 
an attractive sight, and one could not ask for a better 
production. On the whole, the experience was well worth 
while. The Germans understand the art of living. They 
are not an irreligious people, hut they sec no harm, 
after having "been to church in the norning, to go to the 
opera in the evening. 



i 



-156- 



IT 











Ill .,4-^1^ 













3EBLI1T . 

It was about midd.a:'- of August 9th, wlien v;e arrived in 
Berlin. If I had been surprised at the growth of Dresden 

I since my last visit, I was amazed at the change in Berlin. 

I Txie treiiendous growth of the citj'-, and the increase of 
its nanufac~ories seem almost incredible. And then 
again, its beautif ication in public buildings, parks and 
monuments, makes the city today a capital Y/orth;?- zo rank 

' vrlzh. Vienna or Paris . 

Ljring upon a sandy plane of great extent, through 
which runs the river Spree, there has been built a citj'' 
now ho'osing 3,000,000 inhabitants. The capital of the 
German Empire, it is also the capital of the ICingdom of 
Prussia, and is the residence of the German liiperor and 
the seat of the Imperial Government. Likewise, it is 
the centre of the railway system of Germany and is today 
perhaps the greatest manufacturing town in Continental 
Europe. A slight conception of its size may be imagined 

|V;hen it is know2i that the present city covers an area of 

; 25 sq'Jare niiles, its municipal revenues amounting to 
over C'-iO, 000,000 per annum. This is of course smaller 

I than London or Hew York, nevertheless Berlin occupie;s 



-157- 



tliird place ox'iong ulie cixies of Europe, and it is already 
a beautiful capital of which the Oermans ma" justly "be 
proud. 

On a fonaer visit I had spent a week in Berlin anc. 
hr.d visited the principal galleries anc liiuseums and had 
enjo:red a delightful day a'c Potsdsun with its inemories of 
Prederick the Great. At thct tirae the Unter den Linden 
was paved -.yith huge granite "blocks, after the fashion of 
Vienna of today. The Beautiful Cathedral or Dom was 
still inconpleted and the Reischtag only half finished. 
Today these noble buildings and many others grace the 
xslzi'- and are in active use, while the beautiful Siegers 
Allee with its thirty-two inonunents of the Ger/nan con- 
querors, make a proiaenade unequalled by any other city 
of the world. 

It is difficult, on arriving in Berlin, to compre- 
hend its vast extent and unless one takes an auto and 
makes a tour of the city, he will return Trith only a vague 
ii£ipres3ion. however, the hep.rt of the tovm lies in the 
vicini-y of the Kaiser's Palace about which are gathered 
the art galleries, museuns and the beautiful new cathedral. 
The coiiiTiiercial centre of the town is the Frederick Strasse 
and the streets radiating frora it. On these are located 
the prominent shops and cafes; whilst the Unter don j 
Linden is given up mainly to the clubs, hotels and stores 



-158- 



of the first order. 

Out liotel, the Bristol, being located on the Unter 
den Linden proved "co be a beautiful establisliinent and 
well laaintained. Arranged with two open courts, the 
entire iar„in floor is given to restaurants, cafes, reading 
rooms etc., while the upper floors are reserved for bed 
rooms and suites of apartinents. During the evening rnan^ 
private dinner parties are given here and its cuisine 
is justl" f ariious . In order to tenpt the appetite of the 
guests it is the custom of hotels of the first order in 
Geman;- to have a table set near the entrance of the 
restaurant, with the masterpieces of the chef's art. 
Tlaese are ver^ artistically arranged surrounded by the 
rare fruits of the countr3''. I have often watched a "bon 
viveur" stand surveying the display while the tempting 
dishes made his mouth water. Then he would enter the 
'restaurant and order a dinner fit for a prince and sit 
for an hour or more alone in his glory listening to the 
music of the orchestra. A selfish sort of enjoyment 
I this - yet gourmand though he be, he \TOuld doubtless re- 
sent i;he insinuation and ridicule temperate people as 
fools . 

If I were asked to name the most beautiful building 
in Berlin I should unquestionablj!- mention the llev/ Cathe- 
dral, or Dom. This noble building is in effect a votive 

-159- 



church, the entiro cr^jpt being given up to the toinbs (37 
in nuiDoer) of Hohenzollern farciily. Located on the Lust- 
garten axaid ma.ny beautiful buildings its central done 
(374 feet high) is e distinguisliing feature from an^r 
part of the cit:,'-. In style the building is of Italian 
penaissance. Its dimensions being: len^'th 3^4 feet; 
breadth 246 feet; height to cornice 102 feet; to foot of 
lantern 246 feet. The main auditoriuci lies beneath the 
central done and forKia. a most beautiful interior. Sur- 
rounding the central dome are four small ones vrhich sepa- 
rate the main church from these chapels. One of the 
chapels is known as the Uemorial Church and contains many 
beautiful tombs including that of Prince Bismark. The 
cost of this superb cathedral is said to have been 
10,500,000 marks. "JTliile it cannot compare in size with 
St. Paul's, London, it is nevertheless one of the finest 
churches of classic style, built within the century. 

Opposite the ILiperor's Palace in the Schloss Platz , 
is erected the ilational Hon\r:aent to Eaperor William I. 
As this is one of the most costly nonuments in Europe 
and of quite recent date, I cannot neglect mentioning it 
and quote from Baedecker: The sculpture is by Begas and 
T7as unveiled in 1897. On tl'^e pedestal, 66 feet high, 
rises the colossal equestrian figure, 30 feet in height, 
of Eaperor William I. in bronze. Tlie cliarger upon which 

-160- 



he is mounted, is being led bv a graceful figure of 
Peace. At the four corners of the br.se are Victories, 
and on ^he tT7o principal sides are colossal seated fig- 
ures of Peace and Yfer. At the four corners of the base 
are four noble lions cjiiid trophies of weapons and banners 
A Suone colonnade with coupled Ionic columns extends on 
three sides of the platform, the at-cic being adorned with 
other sculptures - too nTimerous to mention." As an 
exajmpli.e of modern sculpture this monument ranks high and 
I confess to great admiration in witnessing it for the 
first time. Its cost is said to have been i^l,000,000. 
Such is the tribute the nation has paid to their beloved 
sovereign. 

To give m:* impression of the museums and art galler- 
ies, the Emperor's palace and stables, and the many at- 
tractions of -his imposing city, would take much time and 
serve litxle purpose. These things must be seen to be 
appreciated for even photographs only vaguelj'- suggest 
them . 

'Jhien the Emperor and his family leave town for uhe 
summer, the elite follow and the cit;'- is then relatively 
quiet until they return, which is usuallj'- at the opening 
of the P.eischoag in the autumn. The sumner is therefore, 
a poor season to visit Berlin. However on my last trip 
I was more fortunate, at that time a review of manjr army 



-161- 



corps was ordered to take place on the plain at the out- 
skirts of the cit3'. By a special peruiit our carriage v/as 
allov/ed to dravr up v;ith the foreign attachees and I saw i 
the Ilaiser and Kaiserin accompanied by a staff of officers 

reviev: the troops. In their excursions up and dovfn T;he { 

i 
Kaiser passed very near us so that xre sav/ the rrar lord I 

in his glory. Regiment after regiment passed in review. I 

Cavalry, artillery, chasseurs, cuirasseurs, and soldiers j 

of the Line, vrith. their attendant wagons and ambulances,. 

made an array the like of which I had never seen before. 

In all 70,000 laen passed in review that day, wearied with 

it all, I 3e f t the scene dazed at the magnitude of the 

event. 

Although taxridden b3'- her army and navy, Germany 
holds to her course of xailitarism claiming it to be the 
onl;/ way to retain peace. But ohe present course nust 
eventually-' give wa;;- to a more sane policy. Mutual dis- 
armment will come with time and the millions that are 
spent for war will some d.a.y be disbursed for nobler ends. 
Europe cannot continue to drain her resources, and this 
must be the result unless some form of mutual disarmment 
takes place. 

The personalitj-- of the Emperor is too well known to 
require comment; a man of strong personal it;'', broad 
intelligence and initiative, fate has placed him in a 

-162- 



( 




^e.r//,n^, ( 






position where he has been able to achieve great results 

in a relatively short time. While he has made some— eneia- 

I ies he has made more friends and his people are loyal to 

i 

him and love him. Tliis is the best evidence that he is a 
\7ise and good sovereign. As for the other members of the 
royal family, all are loved hy the people and the interest 
they take in them is evidenced by the photographs of the 
I members which are sold during a season. A very popular 
photograph is that of the tiny Prince Louis "Ferdinand 
von Prussen" running through a daisy field, -his genuine 
glimpse of a little tot who may some day attain to great 
power is ver;.'- interesting and those vrho have seen him 
must surely love him. 

It would be interesting to give an idea of the summer 
life in Berlin, where the open air parks and restaurants 
make the cit;r as attractive as Paris. But again, our 
"ejnssis pursues and on the night of August the 12th, we 
secured our sleeping car accommodations for Amsterdam. 
Although our stay in Berlin had been short it had 'oeen 
very interesting, notwithstanding the fact that socially, 
the city r^s dead. However, the great influx of tourists 
and the iL-duense movement of business, keeps the city as 
lively as E'ew York, and it is this similarity that makes 
the Crothairiite feel at home. 



-3 63- 



AIISTERDAII 

7roiii Berlin tc Amsterdam is s. tv/elve-lioui' ride on an 
express train. There "being little advantage in making 
this trip oy daylight, we gladly cra\7led into our "bunks, 
hoping ^o sleep the drear;- hours av^aj.', Alas, the night 
v^as an oppressive -one, and "being obliged to keep our 
windoT/s open, ue could sleep ""cut little for the noise, 
the dust and cinders that filled our mouths and e^'^es. 
3?ortunately, a shower at ruidnight cleared the air and 
shortly after vie left :-anover I fell into a doze and re- 
iQeiQ"ber little until the guard called me at 6 a.iTi. Then 
I arose tv^j'bled into my clothing and when the train drew 
into Salzbergen, the Dutch frontier, got out -with the 
other sleep;'' passengers to puss our baggage. 

As this was the seventh time I had passed a custon 
house since leaving JIe\7 York, the procecLdKe was becoming 
monotonous yet I, an American, had no right to complain 
for I knew the attitude of our people on the subject of 
tariffs a.'rid see no reason why our Europea,n cousins should 
not enjoy the same privilege. 

The foruiality of passing the Custor^s being over I 
entered the restaurant to get a cup of hot coffee. A 



-164- 



sleepy Dutch girl was lazily serving the-^ p-assejaijere-oruL 
as I was one of the last, I got the dregs of the pot. 
The draught was v^elnoQe howevir, for it put new life in xne,! 
and as I boarded the train, the ascending mist permitted 
a ray of sunshine to peep through the windows, and my 
spirits rose with the genial warmth it yielded. 

The cotmtrj'', through which we were then passing, was 
low and uninteresting, yet in this unattractive locality, 
flourish many farms and gardens. ITow and then we would | 
pass a chain of sweet water ponds, filled with pond lilies 
and other v;ater plants, and the contrast of these with 
the Bonotonous level meadows was very agreeable. About 
j 7 o'clock we arrived at Appledoon and in less than a half 
hour afterward were landed in the magnj.ficent Central 
Station of Amsterdam. 

The citjr being filled with tourists it was nearly 
niddaj'- before we secured rooms at the Hotel Amstel, an 
hotel located on the River Amstel, at a considerable dis- 
tance from the Dam which is the center of the town. I was 
not sorry however, to be located in this hotel which held 
pleasant memories, for on a former trip I had made some 
delightful acquai.iitances here; one proving to be a wealthy 
velv3t manufacturer of Crefeldt with whom I afterward 
entered into business relations to our mutual advantage. 
Since that time the good man has passed away, and at 



-165- 



a"bout the saLie ticie I wit hdrev; from commerce to essay the 
difficult art of literature. Such is the irony of fate. 
Buv, to my story: 

ihe afternoon proving fair, I took a v/alk through the 
to\m and after seeing many quaint houses and canals upon 
the "oojiks of r/hich grow noble elms whose branches nearly 
Kieet at Didstrea-Ti, I chanced to pass a narrow house about 
14 feet wide with a hi^a stoop and a brass plate upon the 
door bearing the name Speyer 6 Co. Curiosity led me to 
inquire further and I 1b arned that this diminutive office 
was the parent house of the great and v/ealthy firm of that 
name so v/ell knovm in this country. I recount this in- 
cident because it is typical of the countrj'-. i/Tno in a 
city of Granite Banks and Trust Companies, whose towers, 
touch the clouds, could possibljr imagine a wealthy bank- 
ing firm being housed in a tiny house 14 ft. wide by tT,'o 

and a half stories higla? The idea is ridiculous, yet 
] 
here in Holland such things are the rule rather than the 

excep tion. 

Holland is a land of great wealth though one would 
rarely know it from the simplicity of its people and the 
modest though generous manner in v/hich they live. I could 
give a dozen incidents of this kind to prove my point, 
but time is too valuable for that. 

In the opening chapter of this narrative I submitted 



-166- 






as a premise "T]riat loatexial'Tn'oeperllr^^'^iji^jtr'rijrt^^ 
precedes artistic supremacy and. this in turn engenders a 
desire for tiie more beautiful and spiritual things in 
life." 

: iTow when the course of Empire passed from the Vene- 
tians to the Spanish in the fifteenth century and from 
Spain to Holland in the sixteenth century the arts of 
Flolland began to flourish. By arts I do not mean only 
painting, but architecture and the many kindred arts and 
crafts » It was during this period that the comtuerce of 
Holland extended over the world. Their fearless navigators 
had explor3d the most distant lands while the factories or 
colonies they established in the East Indies, yielded a ' 
golden harvest to the no ther .country. During this era the j 
sciences flourished and the art of painting (notably that ' 
of portra^.tursOattained its greatest perfection. The 
great wealth of the Dutch at that period can only be sur- 
mised, and although the course of Empire later passed to 
Prance an-i then to England, the evidences of Dutch suprem- 
s.cy still exist. It is for this reason that a view of their 
luJ^seums and art galleries are of such interest, for in 
them are gathered the rarest treasures of their art. j 
j It is not my intention to give a list of these or to 
attempt by words to describe them. Suffice it, the Ryka 
Museum of Amsterdam alone, covers three acres and every 



-167- 



room and passage ■'no.-j is filled rrith the best exauples of 
Dutch Art. 

vrnile iimsterdan has not gro^m as rapidly as nan:' 
other European north seaports, such for exanple as 
Ant-jerp, i'c is today a cit^-- of over 500,000 inlaahitanta 
vrith a large export and import trade. "As the chief laart 
of the East Inaian Colonies of the Dutch, it is the larg- 
est importer and distributor of coffee, sugar, rice, spices, 
etc. in Europe, and its refineries of sugar, its camphor, 
tobacco, cobalt blue, and diamond polishing industries 
are very important." A cit^'- of canals and bridges, it 
is extraj.iely picturesque, and the new residential quarters 
contain manj'- handsome buildings that v;ill compare favorably 
with those in other European cities, but, aside from these 
characteristics the cit;?- is lacking in movement and is as 
dead on a week daj*- as a provincial town in England would 
be on Sunday, I 



-168- 



-lie Island of I'laarlcen lies at a distance of about 20 
lailes from Aiasterdain. It is a fishing village a-nd in 
order to reach it one uust go Itj steaa 'boat, and pass out 
of the h£ir"bor, through tlie great sea looks into the 
Zu;-der See. 

It v;as a beautiful surjuijer norning v;hen we boarded the 
Steasi Yacht Kaarken for the trip. The boat was of about 
sixty ton burden and croxv'ded with passengers so that it 
was '.Tith difficulty that •'.ve found a seat. Hov/ever every- 
body 'v7as good natured and there being laan;?- Anericans ainong 
the nuiiiber we felt quite at home. 

It required a half hour to lock our boat up to the 
Zuyder Zee - a distance of about six feet, but once out 
of the locks, we started for the Island, passing all 
manner of quaint sailing craft on the way. I remember 
noting a ya,wl rigged lugger one hundred feet long nanned 
"by the captain and his son, a lad of fifteen. A. t the 
helia sat his wife in her peasant costunie steering the 
craft, while the father and son worked the sails. A 
piping breeze was blowing, their craft careening and as 
it passed us by, it made a picture for a painter. We 
doffed our hats to the hardy crev/, and received a 



-169- 



salutation in return. In a moment tkey had passed and 

i 

soon \vere lost in uhe distance, ilov/, although "che i 
2;^: or "ee is a sliallov; Ir.nd locked "bay, it is ver:-- large 
in oxten- r.nd during heavy v^eather is a ver^'- dangerous 
place, yet here vrere three haraj' mariners "braving i'^s 
shoals and storiis in a craft tliat should have been manned 
by six good nen. Sui-eljr C-od is good to the brave. 
Doubtless, as the^-- had reached port man:/- tiir.es before in 
safety, they continued to believe that fate vjould always 
treat them kindly, nevertheless there coues a time when 
t?iey,like m.ny others, sail their last course and their 
craft becomes a wreck upon the shoals, while the brave 
crevj perish with it. 

About midday v/e reached the Island harbor, which 
seemed a maze of masts and nets. ?ollov/ing the board 
pathways we reached the village witli its quaint houses, 
school and church, and at the request of one of the good 
women of the village v.'ent to visit her house. 

Although it was v/ash da;;- everything was scrupulously 
clean- The house v/as a stor;'- and a half higli, built of 
wood heavily pitclied on the outside. VJithin it was cozy 
and attractive. In the eaves hung the nets, whilst the 
main floor v/as used as living and sleeping room in one. 
The beds were built in the wall like ship's berths and nay 
have been comfortable enough although they did not look it 



-170- 



But tlie peat fire used for heating and cooking was no tiling 
more than an open hearth with a crane hung over it, the 
ft-jaes passing through the open room to a hole in the 
roof al3ove. Such c;rude methods are hardly credible, 
among a people so near civilisation, yet here they were 
still in use end no effort made to improve them. The 
old lady told us they suffered lauch from cold in winter, 
when for nontlis at a time they are cut off from communi- 
cation with the mainland. However, v/hen the Zuyder Zee is 
frozen over they skate to Amsterdam or Volendam for sup- 
plies. '^Jhat a life they lead during the dreary v:inter 
months, we who live in comfortahle homes, cannot imagine, 
but God knows I do not envy them, although I am free to 
admit the men and women and their beautiful flaxenliaired 
children, fairl-- radiate good health. It was great fun 
to txy to talk to the children who seemed anxious to air 
the little English they had learned at school, and we were 
making friends rapidly when our merriment v;as cut short 
by the tooting of our stearner's whistle. Thither v/e 
went, follov;ed by a band of laughing children who crowded 
the pier as v/e sailed away and waved their hand to us in 
loving adieu. The grouping of these children in their 
^rctvy colored costuries, with the quaint village in the 
background, made a picture I shall long reEiCmber. 
Luncheon had been prepared in our absence, and as we 



-171- 



went abroad v/e found, the deck set vritli ruany little 

tables, filled T;ith excellent food. As soon as we cleared 

I the harbor v;e sat cov/n to an "Al fresco" luncheon as 

good as one could desire. Oj.'ielette, beefsteak and vege- 
tables, sa,lade, cheese and plent;- of good bread and butter 
with a bottle of beer to help it along. Surely vrho 
could ask for more on such a tin;- craft, whose kitchen was 
only about ten feet square. To this day I marvel that 
one hundred people were fed 'virith such inadequate arrange- - 
i:ients and this, without dissatisfaction to an;,'. 

; About half past 1 o'clock our steacier put in to 
Volendati, another famous fishing village so much souglit 
by artists. The town was "en fete", it being a feast day 
of the church o '^'e therefore had an excellent opportunity 

! to see the natives in their gala array. The women T:ere 
really attractive in their pretty costujnes aJid dainty 
caps, but the men, ye gods, were the V7onder of all. 
Decked out in their velveteen trousers as broad as a laeal 
sack, -.vith two silver buttons on the fore, and a saucy 
little jacket and slouch hat, tliey wore so ungainly' as : 
to be grotesque, ;ret they strutted about with the air of 
dandies en Broadway. Surely the coobination was a curious 
one and I have often laughed at the meiuor3'- of the husky 
lads I saw that day. i 

j Our captain tried to enter Marikendam, another 

i 

-172- 



in"eres~ing village further Inland. But tlie tide liaving 
' fallen ■'.ve found ourselves aground before we had progressed 
a mile up the inlet. As the yacht only drew six feet of 
water. I asked the captain if this thing often happened. 
"Oh yes", he replied, "the deepest v/ater in the Zuyder 
Zee is only fourteen feot and v/hen we get off the high 
ways v;e usually get aground," 

It was sone tine before we got off the mud bank, but 
finally b;- going stem first the screw worked its way 
through the ooze and sline and at six o'clock we were 
' back in AiasterdaD, sunburnt and exliilarated by our de- 
liglitful day's outing. 



-173- 



A highway to the luid-countries of Holland, the 
Aiiiboel river finds its source in the sweet v.'axer lakes 
T/e passed on our railv/a:" journoj' from Bex'lin. These lie 
nearly'- in the center of the state and are the sources of 
many streams » The Anstel like the other rivers forinerl;/- 
overspread the low lands as it neared the sea. -oda7 
throiigh the untiring efforts of the people all the im- 
portant streams and rivers are confined with solid em- 
hankments and thus there liave "oeen hundi-eds of square 
miles of land reclaimed for agricultural purposes. Host 
of this is meadowland upon which can "be seen fine herds of 
Eolstein cattle grazing from Spring until /lutumn. 

On a "bright sunny afternoon we hoarded one of the 
river steamers that make the trip up the river; and as 
our boat passed under the last "bridge of Amsterdam, I 
saw the river erahanlanents for xhe first time. These v.'ere 
of oaroh from six to i:v;elve feet in height with a fine 
roadway upon the one on "che right and a footpath on tiie 
other. Large e3.m trees shaded the roadway, hut on the 
other side we could look far cut over the meadows, and 
see the farms and villages that had grown up on this 



-174- 



reclaimed land. It was a pretty siglit from the deck of 
our boat for we v/ere man;?- feet above dykes and experienced 
the novel sensation of gliding over the meadows instead 
of sailing through then. Tlie course of the river how- 
ever was so serpentine that the boat had to travel many 
miles in order to progress one mile direct. ITevertheless 
every turn developed a new picture and the many craft 
upon the river added to the interest. One in particular 
attracted my attention. It vvas a Dutch fishing boat 
which had been fitted up as a yacht. Although only a 
gentle breeze was stirring at the time, this unwieldy 
craft was slipping through the water at a lively- pace, its 
sails filled as though it had a good capful of wind. I 
can not imagine a more delightful vacation than to spend 
a month on such a boat cruising on the inla,nd v/aters of 
Holland. To the artist this mode of travel offers oppor- 
tunities that cannot be had in anv other vmjr. The beau- 
I 
tiful pastoral scenes of the low countries are difficult 

to reach by roads; and the sunsets, which are the artist's 
delight, must be seen from the open. Of course one must 
I love the country and be able to converse sufficiently'- to 
be understood in order to enjoy it. But I venture to 
predict that if he is a writer in search of quaint t^/pes 
or a painter in search of pretty pastoral landscapes, he 
will return with something worth while, for one cannot 



~].75- 



; travel in this country.' "?;hen nature smiles without adciir- 

I 



ing it and its people. 



" ZAITDVOORT, " 

The Dutch have conquered irallanci, is a pleasantry 
as old as the hills, the meaning of it heing that they 
have reclaimed it froia the encroachment of the sea. Chis 
poetic metaphor, hov;ever, is only partly true, f o r a 
very great part of the country'- is above sea level. ?or 
exaLiple the en-^ire ■western coast from the hook of Holland 
north to Helder, is a noble sea coast of migl-itysand 
dunes that extend man^' miles inland and form a nattiral 
protection from the iTorth Sea. But the Zu^der Zee, a 
vast inland bay is d3''ked in for miles and miles to pre- 
vent encroacliment . Tlie dykes at Volendam which I saw 
were fort;/ feet high above tide v/ater faced v^ith granite 
blocks to prevent heavy seas from undermining them. 

I~ is very difficult for one v:ho has never visited 
this curious country to uncerstand the magnitude of the 
I works v;hich Zlze r;'Utch have constructed to save their 
country froifj inundation by the fresh './ater rivers £ind 
flooding from ":h6 sea. Perh.aps, however, I ma;'- suggest 
this 'o-j mentioning the cost of the llorth Sea Canal wliich 

-176- 



was tuilt to permit large stesuners to enter Amsterdaia and 
thus prevent retransportation of cargo from Rotterdaua, 
the main sea port. To accofliplish this a ship canal of 
fifteen miles long was built from Amsterdam to the North 
Sea, where great sea locks are located at a place called 

j Harweg, six miles from the Village of Zandvoort. The 

i 
total cost of this canal \7as 35,000,000. florins or near- 
ly 15,000,000. dollars, a prodigious sum for such a small 
country as Holland. Nevertheless the success of this en- 
terprise has agitated a still greater project, viz., the 
reclaiming of the Zuyder Zee. This is not an impossible 
engineering feat for as I have observed before the Zee is 
very shallow, and should it be put into effect 687 square 
miles of territory would be thus reclaimed. How many 
square miles have already been reclaimed I do not know but 
the number must be very great for the present works repre- 
sent the effort of centuries of persistent endeavor. It 
would seem almost a waste of energy to drain marshes, when 
there is so much fertile land elsewhere in the world, 
but this is not the case, the land reclaimed is extremely 
rich and the farm products, fruits and flowers of Holland, 
arc one of her chief sources of wealth. 

Zandvoort is sometimes called the Coney Island of 
Amsterdam. The comparison, however, is erroneous. Loca- 
ted on the North Sea, at a distance of twenty-five miles. 



-177- 



' frcn Anisterdai-i, aucl sLx miles from tbe Toie-toi^lxs Ixrwn of 

ilaarlen, was once a fishing village o Altliough the vil- 

i I 

lage rcLiains the fish have departed for other waters, j 
and instead of the finn;;- tribe the populace of Amsterdan 
disport themselves in the orinj- r/aves. Arounci the village 
there has grovm up a seashore resort that extends for 
lailes up and do^Tn the beach. The heiglit of the dunes 
here above the sea give one a full vie\7 over the ITorth 
Sea, and the great T;xdth of the beach makes it a Yery 
desirable bathing ground. To compare Zandvoort, there- 
fore, to Cone- Island -.Tould be absurd for there is no 
sinilarit;;' either in location or otherwise, nevertheless 
on a bright sujamer afternoon it is a wonderful sight to 
see the throngs that come for a dip in the sea. In a 
simple manner they are content to enjoy themselves, wan- 
dering among the dunes or sitting on the sand where they 
paijij the hours away in merry groups. ^Tlien evening comes 
they climb up to the hotels and cafes on the bluffs and 
dine in par-iea until the last departing trains hurr3'- 
them back to I-Iaarlem or to /uiisterdam. T7e chose to lunch 
tliere with some friends who were spending the summer at 
the place, and througli their courtesy were shown all the 
interesting sights. After a dip in the sea we too re- 
tvirnei to Ansterdam and arrived at our hotel in time for 
table d(hote. 



-178- 



" HAARLiat." 

2he next day, "b;,' special appointment I set out to 
meet my Butcli friends in Haarlem, for a day's outing 
in the suDurbs. I considered this a rare privilege for 
, one iiiust either speak the language or miss much in a 
land where beauties la^'- in unfrequented places. I had 
visited Holland many times on previous trips but could 

jOnl'- vaguely rsiiiember rlaarlem. It was therefore necessary 

I 
for ae to refresh my memor;^ ty a glance at Baeaecker. 

I A toxjn of 50,000 inhabitants it lies six miles from 

I the Iforth Sea on the direct line to Amsterdam. It is 
said to be the cleanest town in Holland, but that honor 
is claimed by many others. However, it is a very quaint 
and interesting place. The old ramparts from which the 
Dutch repelled the Spanish in the famous siege of 1572-3 
are now converted into promenades and pretty gardens, and 

jit was only witii the greatest stretch of imagination 
tliat I could picture that heroic defense which has gone 

.down in history as one of the bravest, from the peaceful 
streanis and beautiful trees and flowers that now occupy' 

Ithe site. 

E;r the courtesy of my friend, after a walk through 



-179- 



the gr.rdens he took me to ccJLl upon his \inc3.e th-e Karbor 
i-iaster of T,he tovm. 

Here vras a charac':er fit for t-ny novelist. A xnan 
of about sixt^'-f ive 7ears of age, still hale and hearty , 
he had lived a life of adveiiuure tliat few raen can boast 
of. It rras \vith difficulty that I could get an idea of 
his career, for he spoke lit';le English and as I spoke 
no Hutch, uy friend had to act as interpreter with the 
usual result. ■'Tever'cheless I cau[;lit a gliinpse of his 
life. Briefl:" it v/as as follows: An incorrigible scliool 
'ooy, his parents had quite given up an;'' hope of estab- 
lishing him in a career in the quiet to':7n of Haarlem, .■ 
when one day they awoke to find that he had taken ship 
for the East Indies. Por over eighteen ^^ears they heard 
nothing of hiti, and were about to believe hiui dead; when 
lo.' one fine day he arrived, with the East Indian fleet 
of which he liad becoiae Admiral. ITow to advance froKi 
cabin boy to Captain v/ould be a rcriarkable thing for a 
lad handicapped by lack of education; but to advance to 
the very responsible position of Adiairal of a fleet 
reads like the v/ildest roiaance. nevertheless truth is 
stranger than fiction. If I ara spared I hope some day 
to write the narrative of this remarkable nan. Prom 
the short conversation I Iiad with him I learned more 
-of the i^utch East Indies, its iiHiabitants, clii-iate and 



-160- 



alDorigines than I have ever learned from books; when he 
had finished a dim idea of the wealth of those countries 
began to filter through my "brain, and then I no longer 
wondered that little Holland was so rich. 

I shall not linger over the -veTj interesting toA7n, 
with its quaint and "beautiful town hall and still more 
fataous collection of paintings, "but prefer to relate our 
drive to P.osendaa.1. 

Blessed ti' a 'balm;'- afternoon, we rode for hours 
among the beautiful countr3'- residences that are built 
in this district. Being located on the edge of the sand 
dunes the country becomes more rolling and is often 
wooded with beach and other hard;.- trees, which gives it a 
character quite English. At the best vantage points are 
built the residences of the rich bankers and merchants, 
who liave created a colonv like Lencooc or similar country 
places and who during the greater part of the 3^ear re- 
side here enjoying their ease upon their beautiful 
estates. It was an interesting trip, this, for it gave 

i me another proof of the v/ealth and simple tastes of the 

i 

; more prosperous Hollanders. 

After ovjr drive we returned hy train to Zandvoort 
I and I had the delightful experience of dining in a tj^ical 

I Dutch home, vrhere simplicit:', refinement, and good cheer 

1 

I abounded, it is such excursions as this that give zest 



-181- 



to an EvjTopean "crip, and tlie only pity is that fe-;? of us 
have tlie op'-ortunity to enjoy tliem^ 

It was wixh real regret that I bid farewell to n;'- 
friends that nigli", for I knev; it might "be years before 
we could all meet again, rlowerer, I did so \7ith the con- 
viction 'Chat we should reiiember the jollj' reunion and 
mark it as a red letter day. 



-182- 




'^-■f 



TI-IE HAOUE. 

riie 18-ch of August had arrived; already our vacation 
; was t'TO-tliirds over. Sixty days had passed since we 
1 sailed from -^eir York, yet who can sa" that we had not 

I lived a 3-ear in that short tine? Surely- no one v/ho has 

1 

j carefully' read this narrative. And pray reii^ember, good 
I friend, that this short story does not conve^'- a tithe of 
oui' experiences; it only records the principal ones, or at 

i best such as I imagine uaj'- interest you. ITow to have 

i 

left Holland without visiting The Hague, would have been 

like a visit to Italy without seeing Rome. 

At the risk, therefore, of tiring you I am going to 

quote Wiiat an English v;riter says about Holland, and then 

I will tell you about The Hague: 

"In our groove-spun haste, we pass the quaint- 
est of European Mingdons b;-, forgetting or ignoring 
its fascinations, its sweet floweriness, the unique 
picturesqueness of its water-waj'^ed landscape, its 
Eiarvelous ol(". towns, its stupendous triviiphs in art 
and le-'cers, tlie vigour of i"cs histor^r, and ita 
people, 'oheir wholesouje and happ^r industriousness, 
their pretty and ancienx wa^^-s of dress, their brave 



-185- 



association ivioh the sea, and their courage and suc- 
cess of their fight for freedom and all it stands 
for in tlie constitution and peace of Europe." 

A handsojxie tribute this yet well deserved. Of all 
this "beautiful country The Hague is the political, social 
and intellBctual capitol. A city of about 150,000 inltabi- 
tants , it is relatively a small town, ^''et I predict that 
there will coue a day when it will becoine the laost famous 
city in the world. To not lavigii at this, my friend, wait 
until you have heard me out. ?lie first and second Peace 
Conference have alread;/- been held there, and although the 
results they attained ma;^ not appear encouraging, the fact 
tliat they have taken place is a miracle in itself. iTever 
before in tlie histor;;- of the world has this been accoin- 
plished, and v/ho can predict where this spirit of amity 
will lead? Certainly' neither you nor I. Therefore do 
not let us say with some of otir pessimistic writers that 
the Palace of Peace is built upon a foundation of sand. 
Tlie assertion may be literally correct; for The Hague 
itcelf is built upon piles driven into sand; and the 
foujidations of the Peace Palace will doubtless be con- 
structed in the sane inanner; but there the simile ceases. 
MotwitJistanding the trerriendouo obstacles encountered by 
-he International Court of Justice the novement is gain- 
ing ar ound and all rifg l.t -t hinking pe ople ar e in favor of 



-184- 



it. The world moves slcwl"', for human nature is perverse, 
"but that it moves at all toward such an important goal is 
indeed encouraging. 

As an evidence of this movement let me narrate an 
incident that occurred to my brother ?red and myself some 
tv/ent}^ 3-ears ago when we were making a trip together on 
the Steainer Potsdam hound for Ro--cerdam. One stormy day 
we found ourselves in the smoking room v;ith a dozen or 
more fellow passengers, \7hen the conversation drifted 
from various subjects to International Comi.aerce and Recip- 
rocity. \Ye had taken little part in the discussion, when 
one of the gentlemen turning to me asked for my opinion. 
I replied that we were at present in the period of tariff 
wars, "but that the principal of reciprocity v/as gaining 
ground, and that when more equitable trade relations were 
established International ComLierce would grow at a trem- 
endous pace. But, in order to facilitate this, I foresaw 
that many other conditions would then become necessary'- 
and that their establishment would prove of the greatest 
benefit to mankind. These '.vGre, an International system 
of weights and measures, an International unit of exchange 
or money, an International language oral and written 
(for commercial purposes), and an Internationetl Court of 
JuKjt.Ice. At the mention of the last a roar of laugiiter 
swept over the room, and I would have felt quite alone 



-185- 



Iiad not a worthy man (a rnsr chant and banker) coifie to ny 
rescue. A practicc<,l man of affairs, he sustciined ne on 
every proposition, but knowing laore about the subject than 
I did, shov'ed the great obstacles which at that ticie pre- 
vented such ends being realized. Since that da;' three 
blcociy v.'ars have taken place, the South African or Boer 
War, the Spanish Aiaerican and the Russo-Japanese ^Jar. 
The anount cf blood and treasure v-liich these have cost, 
beggar analysis. ITe'/er the less they ha,ve av;-akened the 
world to the folly of war, as a means of attaining justice 
between nations, and there lias been created a new and laore 
stable belief in "The International Cotirt of Justice." 
Although only tv^enty years have psBsed, since our dis- 
' cussion took place in the cabin of the Potsdao, I would 
be quite cea^tain that every man in that coiapan3r would 
acknowledge today the great advance that has been made 
tOT/ard the penvianent establishment of aii International 
Tribunal with its blessing to luankind.- 

^fcile we were in The Hague the fisheries Cotiwission 
were holding their conference there and the advent of 
these important personages added to the tremendous influ:: 
of su-mi.'jer tourists filled the town to ovsrf lo\Ting. We 
had fortunately written ahead for rooms and found them on 
our arrival at "Tlie Hotel des Indes", one of the ba^t 
hotels in The Hague, vrhich since the Peace Conferences lias 



-186- 



been nick-ncmed the anti-chamlDer of the Palace in the 
Woods. It is at the house in the woods that the Queen 
and Prince Consort reside, ohe greater part of the year. 
^.l.though the Queen has many palaces she loves none more 
than "He-: Loo", the house in the woods. It was in this 
quaint and historic palace tl.at the Peace Conferences 
were held, during Y/hich period "The Hotel des Indes", 
heing frequented "b;" the aojbasaadors, and roj'alties of 
cia-n;- countries actually became the lobby or anti-chaiaber 
of the Palace where their deliberations were held. To 
have been a guest of the hotel at that time would have 
been a rare experience, for probabl;'- neYer before have 
there been so nany of the world *s diploiuats gathered 
together in such a place. 

lian;' ^rears ago I visited tlie Palace in the IToods 
and the iinpression of simplicity ana homeliness that per- 
vaded it has alwa2's remained a pleasant memory with me. . 
At that time 1891 Queen TTilhelmina was a child of about 
fifteen years of age. I remember the custodian showing 
me her latest photograph, v/hich proved her xo be a sweet 
and pretty child. About the house were man;'- evidences of 
her good taste and simplicity and while she has since 

married I fancy that I see upon her later photographs a 

i 
careworn expression that I did not see in years agone. I 

However tiiat may be, she is ever;'- inch a queen, and holds ' 

I 

-187- 



the love, nox onl" of iier people, but of all nations. 
This is r,n ex'^raorclinary t;ribute, yet I believe ic is 
true, for in "liis laovenent toward an Interna'cional Ccur^ 
of Justice, zl.e little Queen and li'otle Molland have 
played an important role, one ~hat will forever endear 
then to fjankind. 
j -lie "vig'xe was originall" a hunting seat of the 
Counts of ^'olland, froia whence its name, S. Graven riage , 
is derived - lieaning, the Counts' enclosure or hedge. 
Ax that tijiie, the 16th Century, tlie forest was of vast 
extent. CiA'-iliaation however has gradually encroached 
{upon it, and the present wood is all that renains. It is 
j hovrerer a park of considerable size and adorned with 

noble beech trees as hcmdsoiae as those in the forest of 
i Pontainbleu, On a sunny afternoon its shady glens and 
I pretty water ways filled wi":h aquatic plants, are a re- 
"^■reat for the lovers of the to'.7n, and A7ho can blame them, 
for ciiriicL such roiaantic spots surely' love should tlirive. 
Mow little ironder then, that Queen Willielxuina should pre- 
fer the Palace in the \7oods to the ciore s tat el;'' ones she 

possesses. j 

I I 

i Upon the Place Voorhout is located the Palace of the 

I 

I Queen Mother, and near there the Hotel des Indes, where we 
stopped during our stay in The Hague. 

It is said that no to^m in riolland possesses so luany 



-188- 



Inroad and handsoxne streets, loftj- and. substantial houses 

I 

' and lian.'.soine squares as The Plague. ITow tliat I have renev/- 

ed lay acque.intance \7ith the city after a lapse of twenty 

years, I know that this stateaaent is no exaggeration. Of 
I 
' the sho'^ palaces, I shall only mention the Picture Gallery' 

or liauritshius as it is called, an iiaposing structure 

j erected oy Prince John Maurice of Imssau, Governor of 

Brazil in 1679, which novr contains a rare collection of 

Pictures, the .inucleus of which was nade hy the Princes of 

[ Orange. It is in this galler;'" that Ilexn'brantitJs famous | 

' ! 

picture, the School of Anatomy is safelj^ guarded. His j 

: other faraous picture "The ITight Watch" "being shown in a 

I 
room speciall3' built for it in The Ryks Museum, Amsterdam. I 

It would be difficult to put a value on these two master- | 

pieces, so highlj' are they prised, but I think few pictures 

I 

in Surope would bring a higher price if put up at auction. 



-189- 



" SCHEVEITIITGEIT" 

A iiiile or two froQ -he Hague lies the seashore re- 
sort of Scheveningen, Once a fishing village, it has 
grown and prospered until today, it is one of Europe's 
great seashore resorts, Biarritz, Trouville, Ostende 
and Scheveningen, these are the places where during the 
season one nay see life and fashion. Ostende, the laost 
i^nportant of theia, is not far from Brussels and steaiaers 
ply regularly froui there to Dover, England. It is there- 
fore wore frequented hy English than Scheveningen. ilever- 
theless inany English and Americans favor Holland's "Bains 
de mer":,: and the Continent sends its portion so that it 
like The Hague has become an International resort. During 
the season it is very gaj'" and the concerts and balls at 
the casino, or Kurhaus, as it is called, are most brill- 
iant affairs. To one who loves good music the Sjrmphony 
Concerts are a deliglit. Under the direction of Herr 
Ernst Kunwald with his PhiUiannonic Orchestra of Berlin, 
there ha^tebeen produced many original works at The Casino 
tiiat might never have been heard by tlie public. One of 
these "La Hoi en Exile", b3'' my friend of Zandvoort, was 
produced on August 5th, before a most brilliant and 



-190- 



entliusiastic audience. The work took 25 minutes to per- | 
form, and was followed Toy a work of the master Tscliaikowsky 

To descrilDe the various emotions of my friend upon 
hearing for the first time one of his works interpreted 
by the best orchestra in Europe, would be iiapossible. One 

must listen to the composer tell it "viva voce", in his 

i 

I own inimitable wa;-; and as he arrives at the climax - 

' "vvhen the hoiJise rose to a man and cheered him lustily for 
i ten ninates" ^ as the memory of this triumph brings suf- 
! fused tears zo his eyes, one ma^'- then perhaps ujiderstand 
what it means to labor and slave for twenty-five years 
I without recognition, to become famous in a night, 
j I could fill many pages vrith interesting incidents 
that have happened to me upon my various visits to 
Scheveningen, for it is amid such thicngs , made up of all 
nationalities, that a writer often finds his best mater- 
ial, I will mention one experience that was extremely 

, interesting. 

i 

: During the tour of The Comedy-prancaise Company of 

Paris, I liappened to be in The Hague and secured tickets 

for the performance. Arriving at the Theatre adjoining 

the Casino, I found mj-self among the most fashionable 

audience I had. met in Europe, Everj' man (except mj'-self^ 

seemed to be in evening dress and the fairest ladies in 

the land were present decked in their la'oest Parisian 



-191- 



toilettes. I could hardly 'believe that such a "brilliant 
audience had cone out on a rainy night to honor the 
pla:,-er3, and therefore acked a gentleman near ne for an 
explanation and Y/as "old t!:at af^er "che theatre there was 
to be a grand ball. ITothing daunted, I requested hiia to 
' find ne sorje i.7ay to get into the ball roon that I night 
I see the audience v/ithout being stopped 03- the liveried 
eiaployees because I rras not in evening dress, rie courte- 
ously did so v.ncx I beheld a scene that I have remembered 
ever since. Beautiful Tjomen were there in abundance, 
their brilliant costumes contrasting strangely witii the 
uniforms of the many Arj;^y and l\a.vy officers present, who 
danced with spurs on their boots as thougli their equipment 
would be incomplete virithout them. Courtiers, Diplomats, 
Princesses and Princes, all were i inisxorably mixed in the 
maze of the waltz with the elite of the town and the for- 
tunate comiaoners who, like myself, were reveling in the 
intoxication of th.e monent. Such is -he Hague during the 
season. 



-19^ 



ACROSS THE CHA17.TEL TO EITG LA!^. 

It -^ras Sunday afternoon, August the 21st, when we 

I 'ocd.e cood-loye to Scheveningen. A gale wr.s blov/ing at the 

i t.liT.e and ever;^ indication pointed to heavy weather for 

i our trip across the Channel. However, it was too late to 

back out. Our cabins had "been secured and off we went 

on the "boat train to The Hook of Holland, which is not 

: far from Eotterdani. Arriving on hoard at eleven o'clock, 

imagine our surprise to find the gale abated and the moon 
i 
' shining through the rapialy drifting clouds. 

I 

I Pinding that our steainer would not start until the 

Berlin Express arrived, I placed my baggage in my state 

room and went on deck. It v;a3 a wonderful night, one 

such as Clark Russell would revel in for one of his 

'poetic descriptions. Out upon the horizon hung a pall 

of black clouds lightened only where the ocean and the 

; horii:on met bjr a luminous ra;- that permitted one to peep 

' upon the cold ITorth Sea, O^'-erhead v/ere masses of drif t- 

I ing wind clouds, pa.ssing with the speed of an express 

; train, ever and anon shutting out the moon's raj'^s, which 

{persistently tried to pierce their sombre mantles. A 

1 
heav;?- swell swept into the estuary indicating that the 

sea be^-ond had not subsided although the gale had blovm 



-193- 



iteelf out. Tlic earth air current which but a few hours I 
passed had tossed the sea into Liountainous waves, was 
passing over zlie English coast, while the upper air current 
was apparently passing in an opposite direction tearing I 
the clouds into all manner of fantastic shapes that beggar 
description. ?or a long while I sat T;atching this dramatic 
spect-acle when iny attention was attracted by a red light | 
which I supposed to be upon the jetty of the liarbor. A 
noicient la':er a green light came out to match it and a 
small steaiier inv/ard~bound passed us by, without a sound. 
The appeai-anco of the boat had been so unexpected that I 
almost fancied it a phanton ship, until I was told that 
it was a coaster that had bucked the gale all day, her 
hardy capxain having brought her safely into port when 
others would have scudded before the gale. 

Our steamer proved to be one of the new "turbine 
boats of which so much has been written. A long narrow 
ciaft cf about one tiiousand tons burden, she was propelled 
by a pair of twin screws actuated "by compound turbines. 
In ap;:ointment8 and accomLiodation her equipment was as 
fine as any channel stcainer I have seen, but I confess 
that I should not ca.re to be caught in a gale in her. 
However, speed is the quest of the public, and if tliey 
wish to make the run from the Kook to Harwich in six 
hours they must have a boat that flies. 



-194- 



At the midnight r,s the German Express had not arrived 
I retired for the night and had fallen asleep, when the 
sounds of v.n Aeolian harp avroke me = By the motion of 
the boat and the hum of the turbines, which produce this 

curious musical sound akin to an Aeolian harp, I knew 

i 

' that we were under full headway. To some the sound is 

extremely annoying, but to a wearj'- traveler like myself, 

it acted as r. lullaby and in a few moments I was again 

sound asleep. 

j It was six o'clock the next morning when the steward 
awoke me. After a cup of coffee I dressed and went on 
deck. A cold clammy fog enveloped even'iJiing, but as 
we neared the harbor of Harwich, it lifted sufficiently 
to permit us to enter the estuary at half speed. A few 
moments later we were landed at the wharf, a dreary 
place with a dirty railwajr station, and were ushered into 

I a large shed where our hand baggage ^ras examined by the 
Customs. Then entering the Great Eastern R.R. train 

; tliat awaited us, were bowled off to London at fiftj"- 
miles an hour. 



-195- 



'-'ron J-"aiT/ich to the Liverpool Street Station in 
London, t/as a ti.Yo liours ' ride. The day being overcast, 
the country through vrtiich we passed, lacked the charm le 
e:;cpec"ied and as we entered the scioke-laden city, a sense 
of depression caL'ie upon U3,"buu as this is the inpression 
Lo nJ-on first i;:>akes on an American we had our baggage 
passed oy xhe custom officials and tossing it aboard a 
four-'T/heeler and were driven "Co the Hotel Thackeray, 
Great Russel Street, directly opposite the entrance «o olie 
British liuse'omo i 

As this hotel is comparatively little known, I shall 
say a word about it. A temperance house, owned and run 
by woraen, it is an excellent place for those who wish to 
remain for so^e time in London, ""^ile it may not have i 
the privacy of quarters in a private family, it has many 
advantages, such as good room and board, a library, a 
billiard room, a lounge and a parlor v:here one may be I 
quite at home for a modest stipend per v/eek. "Tere it 
more centrall;."- located I should prefer it to many of the 
more expensive hotels, frequented by Americans. | 

1 

But alas.' the contrast of smoky London to the sunny 



-195- 




.X^/ic^o/z^ 



cheer:'' cities we had left behind us, dampened our spirits 
BO that we were not enthusiastic about our quarters or 

I 

our contemplated sojourn in the greatest citjr in the | 
world. I 

"'The Soul of London" is the title of a book which it 
Tjas ii;'' good fortune to read some six years ago. A curious 
title, you will say, for how can a city have a soul? Of i 

course, the inanimate city, the bricks and mortar, cannot 

i 
have a soul unless we believe Maeterlinck's Pairy Tale of 

"The Blue Sird" , - but as an individual may have a per- 
sonal soul, so a collective "body of individuals may also 

have a collective soul, and it is to the study of this 

j 

subject that the author treats us. Oeorge Moore has called 
i this studj-- "The Psycholog:^'- of the Mob". Hoxv the author 
proves (at least to my satisfaction) that London (the mob 
soul) is 30 great and powerful that it dominates all in- 
dividuals and nationalities that come within its gates. I 
So powerful are its allurements and attractions; so dominat- 
ing the customs, manners and modes of life; so irresistible 
the good cheer and love of King and country, that whosoever 
comes within its influence, is eventually changed in cliar- 
acter and after a few years' residence, becomes a Londoner 
in name and in reality. Curious this wonderful influence, 
yet true nevertheless. 

The sway of environment is something lixtle understood 



-197- 



ty the average person, else vre touIcI not see men and vjotuen 

I of xntelligence content wioh a drearj' lot, ",vhen 3 ome tiling 
tetter for a little pains might ce theirs. Of all nation- 
alixiea, the Anglo-Saxon is the icost adventurous e^-ni self- 
relian'c, yez incredible as it aaj seexii, we see an ar^Ly of 
theni content \-ith a tare livelihood in London, 'vhen their 
own colonies offer theci £oloen opportunities, ^xzy do 
"he"' not go? The ansv/er nine tiiLes out of ten Trill cs , 
the hcae ties are too great, they cannot oreak theni. 

i The lure of lonc'on has fallen upon them and they are lost. 
It is therefore quite iii.possitle for an Anierican, atrve 
all, a tourist, to comprehend this lure or influence in 
a short visit. To c'o this one must live there, at least 

'for a tin.e, and cecoxne one of theiL. 'Tner., after a year 
or more of residence, his kno?(ledgo of the city and his 
acquaintance with its people shall have gro'OTi, he -.vill 

'c; is cover that he too has fallen under the influence of the 
Soul of London. His fcrasr prejudices and antipathies 

[have disappeared, and loj'-al Aiijerican though he be, he 

!has nevertheless, hecoiie a Londoner in taste and s:^iDpa"chy. 
It is not iT.y purpose to attempt to explain this won- 
c'erful influence, I only kno'.v that it exists, and thaL a 
week had barel;- passed, tefocre the s.zicky dirty city I sa^v 

I en rii3' arrival, began to tecoae rnore attractive to me, and 
vhen one day I found .ii;-self standing upon the steps of the 



-198- 



I'ational Gallerjr ovex-looking Trafalgar Square, I said to 
myself, "Surel^r, London is the peer of all other cities 
in the ^orld." 

It was earlj- in the eigliteenth centurj'- v;hen the 
course of Empire passed from Prance to England. The 
Sattle of Waterloo settled forever ITapoleon's dreams of 
conquest, and England today is the peer of all the nations 
of Europe. To her comes the wealth of the Indies, her 
colonial possessions are vast, rich and powerful, and her 
friendly trade relations have developed a foreign com- 
merce 30 great that ours is 'but a mite in comparison. 

: ■'jTith the introduction of steejm and machinery her manu- 

I 

! factures have developed "beyond the wildest dreams of her 

forefathers of old, until today her trade, foreign and 

domestic, is counted in billions. 

Of all Great Britain's vast empire, London is the 

commercial and political capital,, and it is therefore not 

sur. rising that there has grown up on the hanks of the 

Thames, a city of over 6,000,000 inhabitants made up of 

all nations of the earth. To give an idea of the vast 

wealth whicii has been brought through foreign commerce 

and controlled by the Banks and Trust companies of London 

would be a task so great that fev; but experts could do it. 

Puxthermore such statistics would be bej'-ond my purpose 

which is to relate v:c trip as it occurred, and give 



-199- 



t 



"en passant", such infomation as may "be instructive and 
.entertaining. 

^ioli the death of Queen Victoria, there ternjinated 
the greai;est era of prosperity Englajid has ever kno^Tn. 
-hose fift^"- or more vears have justly- been called the 
Victorian Era, and a better designation could not be 
chosen. ?or it was rrith her accession to the throne that 
"he arts and sciences flourished in England as they had 
never floui-ished before. 

j One must look at the wealth of treasure gathered with- 
in "he museums, galleries and libraries of London to 

! 

understand this, and remember that fifty years ago these 

collections either did not exist or else were so small 

as to be unimportant. Moreover by private bequests, 

London is gradually acquiring collection upon collection 

of paintings and other art treasures, so that today it 

mav justl*' boast of rivaling the wonderful collections 

I 

'of Paris. As an example of private bequest, the Sir 

Richard Wallace Collection recently acquired, is appraised 
at $25,000,000., and this, be it remembered, is the be- 
quest of one man, a collector of excellent taste vjho has 
l3ft a monument behind him worthy of an Emperor. How 
many other private collections there are I do not recall. 
But the 1*3W Taite CJallery on the Thames embankment, dazz- 
led me with the beauty of its building and the wealth and 



-200- 



excellence of its paintinga of the English mastera. Com- 
pare this collection, and the National Galler3'- collection 
of ant:.q.ue art, with the host that Berlin can shovv in the 
painter's art, and one can theia apprecitite why an art 
student cannot neglect London in his itinerary. 

It has "ceen rrj good fortune to visit London many 
times, and though it had "been hut six years since I vxas 
last there, the changas which are taking plaoe, are sur- 
prisingc Charing Cross or Trafalgar Square, may justly 
"be considered the heart of London. In this Tloinity many 
great improTements have already taken place end others 
under completion, will eventually make thic part of the 
citj as fine architecturally as Paris, Berlin or Vienna. 

The Thames embankment is now "being extended a mils 
further up the river to a point v/here the l\iew Taite Gal- 
iQTj is located. On the opposite side of the river the 
emhanlariont is "being carried down from Lam'berth Palace 
to the l^ow Palace cf the London C;cunt3r Council, (City 
Kail), and eventually it is hoped the Surre-^ side of the 
city v/ill "be as attractive as the other. ' 

Through the courtesy of my friend, the Superintend- 
ing Architect of the London Count3'- Council, we had an i 
opportunity-- to inspect the foundations for this new i 
City Hall. Already the emhankment is coyjplcted with : 
its massive granite walls, and the excavation of the ; 



-201- 



accuiiulated jxi'ud of centuries ■vitiiin the wall, is now 
nearly finished. During these excavations the workmen 
discovered the remnants of an old Roman C^allev, with 
many otlier rare trophies of the period of the Romsui in- 
vasion. EoT this craft hp.ppened to "be abandoned, there, 
no one vrill ever kncA7, but the finding of it 2GC0 years 
later, gives one some conception of the antiquity of 
London. 

I think one of the best viev/s of London iiia.z^ be ob- 
tained froii the WestKiinster Bridge Avhich crosses the 
river at a point between Lamberth Palace and The New 
Count" Council. Pros:, this point one juay see the beauti- 
ful Parliament Buildings and the iiiany other superb struc- 
tures, such as the Whitehall Chambers, the Savoy and 
Cecil Hotels, and following Covm the embankment, the 
noble CoiTLe of St. Paul's Cathedral finally looms up high 
above the mist and smoke of the city forming a land mark 
discernible as far as tlie e3'e can reach. 

Often I have delighted in a trip on the penny stsaui- 
ers that run from Kew wardens to Black Eriars Bridge, and 
from thence to Greenv/ich Observator;- and Arsenal, many 
miles down the river. In making such a trip one gets a 
better impression of the magnitude of London and ics im- 
portance as a sea port, than can be acquired in any other 
-/ay. However, the average tourist prefers to stick 



-202- 



alDout the Strand and Piccadilly, or Bond or P.egent 

Streets v/liere the principal shcpj: are located,. 

I It would require much time to describe the many im- 

proveinents whicli are making London realljr an attractive 

cit^^, hut the Uew Mall in front of Garleton Terrace, the 

:Kingsv7ay, the Strand improvement, and many other radical 

changes are transforming London, as Paris was transformed 

in Saron Haussmann's time. 
I 
I Architecturally, and in plan, London is unlike any 

city in the world. An inextricable net of narrov/ streets 

with only here and there a highwa3.', one often finds some 

I 

of the best examples of architecture surrounded by a mass 
of humble or ramshackle buildings that completely?- destroy 
its dignity. 3?urthemore the law of ancient lights, 

j 

prevents property owners from building to any great 
heiglit, for the reason that adjoining property o\mers 
have a right to God»s free gifts, light and air. This 

jvery v/ise law has saved London from the abnormal build- 

I 

ings we see in Hew York and elsewhere in this country. 
London, therefore, is a mixture of the old and the new 
Ithat often illy harmonizes In style the preference has 
largely been for the Classic of which the British Museum 
is an excellent example of the Greek, while St. Paul's 
Cathedral, the Jfational Gallery and manjr other public 
and private buildings, are good examples of the Roman 



-203- 



Classic style. Sir Chris toplier Wren's masterpiece of 
St. Paul's is the third largest church in Christendom, 
being surpasced only bir St. Peter »b at Rome and the 
Kilan Cathedral. Its proportions are enormous, and the 
interior capahle of accommodating, if I remember cor- 
rectlj', ten thousand people. Hovever, the Church is so 
hemmed in "by narrovr streets and unimposing houses, that 
from nowhere near at hand can one obtain a fair view of 
its gigantic proportions. 

This is not true of the Parliament Buildings, of 
which a fine view can be had from the Surrey side of the 
Thames* -hese buildings were erected in 1840 from the 
plans of Sir Charles Barry and are in the richest late 
Tudor Gothic style occupying a space of 940 feet on the 
river front and covering eight square acres of ground. 
The beautiful Victorian Tower adds greatly to the magni- 
ficent pile of masonry which are in my opinion the finest 
Parliament Buildings in the world. In the tower is hung 
the great bell, called "Big Ben", weighing thirteen tons. 
This monster is capable of sending its vibrations over the 
whole city of London, but owing to a defect, it is only 
rung upon important celebrations. 

To give a review of the many new and beautiful build- 
ings which make London so interesting to an architect, 
would not be practical, but the new War offices are 



-204- 



Il[ff#vw' 




V. IN 






wortlr-- of irien";:ion, and the Imperial Institute, where are 
gathered the rare collections of England's Colonies is, 
I think, one of the finest specixnens of xaodern architec- 
ture. 

I Sut v;hy attexapt such a task as the description of 
London's architecture. Tliat is feat for a student '.7ho 

i has unlimited time. I './as not so "blessed; five days had 
passed and Sundaj'- v;as at hand and I v/as meditating how I 

' could get out of London on that day, when an invitation 
from my architectural friend requested me to come dovm and 
spend the 7:eek-end at Swanage "by the Sea where he and his 
family '.vere residing for the summer. Needless to say that 
v;eary irlth sight-seeing I was glad of the chance to get 
out again into the open, and hurriedly packing my satchel, 

I I Called a hansom and in about twenty?- minutes was landed 
in ohe ^^aterloo Station of The Grand Central R. R. in time 

, to catch the 9:30 A.M. train for Swanage . 

I 



-205- 



SWA2AGE BY THE S3A . 

Our train was an express and crowded to its full 
capacit3'' v;ith inan:'- week end trippers who like myself were 
anxious to get a breath of the sea. After leaving the 
snoke-laden city, the sun came out disclosing the "beauti- 
ful fields and farms of Surrey. An hour's ride brought 
us into Hampshire with its lovely rolling fields of grain 
and prosperous farms, its picturesque cottages and fine 
estates, and about twelve o'clock passed through T7inches- 
ter. A lialf hour later we stopped at Southampton, iihere 
many of our passengers got off, a few more descending at 
East Bournemouth, whilst I and those who remained con- 
tinued on to Swanage by the Sea. 

At two o'clock we arrived. Somewhat weary from the 
Journey I descended from the train, and was met by my 
friend, who with a cheery - "Welcome home old chap" - 
greeted me like a long lost brotiier. In a few moments 
we were driven to his cottage where a hearty welcome 
awaited me from his wife and his four beautiful children. 
A jolly reunion it was, one especially agreeable to me, 
for it had been many years since we had all met, and one 
of the little tots I had never seen before. Ever 

-206- 




,0 y^o-noc^e ^«^ 




T/JJy V^ht'tn Caves 



thoughtful of the inner man our hos*ess had prepared a 
royal luncheon which a half f£?j[riished iijan like myself en- 
joj'ed to the full. Afi;er a chat and a cigar it v/as sug- 
gested that I accompan;'- the faiailv on an excursion to 
Corfe Castle a distance of ten miles or so, but I "begged 
off and sought my quarters in the Hotel Grosvenor near 
"by, v/here to my surprise a palatial room, large enough 
for a fai'iiily, had been reserved for me. As I opened the 
'.Yindov; and caught a breath of the fresh sea breeze laden 
with its brine, I looked out upon Sv/anage bay, with its 
yachts at anchor, and saw in "ohe distance the Isle of 
Wight. "Hiien a sense of compassion came upon me, and I 
pixied those less fortunate than myself, who housed with- 
in a smoke laden city might rarelj^- see so pretty a scene. 
Swanage I found to be an old fashioned seashore re- 
sort rareljr frequented b;'" any but English families, who 
come for the season, that is, for July and August. On 
the first of September a general exodus takes place and I 
a month letter the place is deserted. I was fortunate ! 
therefore in arriving before xhe people had left and in i 
the afternoon took a walk around the bay, which is semi- j 
circular and about a mile in diameter. On the north side 
of the bay are lofty chalk cliffs forming a bold head land 
which makes it an excellent harbor. The south side is 
equall;r well protected by imposing hills whose woodland 



-207- 



or verdure run cIo^tti to the soa - Between these natural 
■bul'.7arks lies the town and the "bathing beach. 

It was about five o'clock in the afternoon, the time 
Tvhen cliildren and nurse maids should have been at home for 
tea, when I reached tlie beach which was crowded with chil- 
dren ei'cher disporting themselves in the water or building 
sand castles to be destroyed by the morrow's rain. I sat 
for a long wiiile watching the sport and tried to ixiiagine 
myself a boy again. But alas.' so many years have rolled 
"by tLifxt the feat was difficult. However, as I looked out 
over the channel I saw a mist gradually shutting tlie Isle 
of Wight from view and noting the sudden change in temper- 
ature csked an old sea dog near me, \7hat the indication 
meant. "Ah',' he said, "There be a storm brewin' sor". Al- 
though I suspected then that he knew the weather better 
than I yet I never Imagined we should get the gale that 
twenty-four hours later lashed us with its fury. But of 
that anon. 

j The sudden chill in the air encouraged me to continue 
my walk, when suc-.denly on turning a cornor of the promenade 
I literally ran into an old friend, a Londoner, who with 
his j'-oung wife, were spending their vacation in the town. 
l»rithout more ado we went to his hote?. for a chat and a 
cup of tea. As v/e sat around the hoapitaole board I began 
to feel at home in Swanage and from my friend learned much 



-208- 



about the vicinity which may be of interest. As this 
coast is a delightful place to spend a summei- I will 
quote the information. Let me see if I can expDain it to 
you without the aid of a map. 

Tl-ie English Channel from Lands End on the ^est, to 
Dover on the East runs approximately east and west. Lo- 
cated midway" between these two points is the Isle of 
¥ight, England's most delightful summer resort. To the 
west of the Isle of ^ight about 25 miles distant a prom- 
ontory projects into the Channel, called by some the 
Island of Purbeck, it is however really a peninsular, on 
the channel side of wh-ich is Durlston Bay with its famous 
St. Alban's Eead and light house, ivhilst on the eastern 
side of the peninsular facing the Isle of Wight lies 
Swanage bar and its prettj town nestled in between for- 
boding bluffs or head lands. In coming in or up the 
Channel therefore if one follows the English coast, one 
must pass the following headlands and lights on the way 
to Dover. I shall omit Lands End, for the reason that 
The Lizard light, is really further to the Southard, and 
is in effect the most southerly part of England. After 
leaving the Lizard and its famous liglit the next headland 
is Start Point - located East of Plymouth, then comes 
Portland Bill, St. Albans Eead, St. Catharines Point 
Isle of ^""ight; then Beachey Head, Dungeness and Lover. 



-209- 



These headlands and lights have "been ric^de fa?iiouc "by Clark 
Rv.ssell in his nautical stories, and it Wiis surprising to 

ine that one of these very renoTmed lights, (St. Altans 
Head) should be so nearbj'-. I deterinined therefore to pay 
it a visit the next day. But zo continue - The narrowest 
part of the English Cliannel as is well known is called the 
Straits of I'over and lies "between Calais (Trance) and Dover 
(England). The next narro'.vest point is that lying between 
the Isle of ¥ight and Cherbourg, Prance. It is therefore 
possible to nake a trip froni Swanage to Clierbourg and re- 
turn the same day. In fact; day and night steamers do 
this regularly during tlie season, weather perriitting. 
j l-Ibw was it not a curious turn of events rhich broiiglit 
me '.vithin fifty miles of Cherbourg where two nonths before 
'we had disembarked so f"j>ll of enthusiasm for our educa- 
tional tour through Europe. How many miles we had covered 
'in that time I do not know, but if you have followed our 
journey from the start I think you will admit that oixr 
time :ras not idly wasted. Swanage therefore is a very 
desirable place to reside in the summer, for the reason 
that steamers ply regularly to Portsmouth, Southampton, 
and The Isle of Wight, as well as to Cherbourg, St. lialo 
and the Channel Islands of Guernsey, Alderney and Jersey. 
rurtheiTQore the country in the vicinity of Swanage is very 
rugged and beautiful and innumerable excursions inland are 



-210- 



possi-Dle. It is an ideal place for a poet or a painter, 
but not for those ^vlio desire excitement drese or parade. 
Por such I would recommend Brighton, vrith its? swc^riiiing 
crowds of trippers, touters , Jacks and Jills of every 
station. One may see more of the human side of life, 
high or low there in a day than could be seen in S-.7anage 
in a year. 

If time and space would permit I could tell many 
interesting things about this peninsular wiaich my friend 
maintains has all the geological formations of England 
T/lthin its small domain, but I must hurry home to dinner, 
{then to bed for the next day Sunday wo had arranged to 

i 

walk over tho dovrns to Studland, five miles distant. 

In Puritanical England Sunday is always strictly ob- 
served, and it is for that reason that London is such a 
dreary place on the Sabbath. If its many r:.hiirches were 
filled to overflowing one would feel that the outward 
solemnity'- corresponded with the inward grace. But un- 
fortunately that Is not the case. In some of the oldest 
I parishes, we see a clergyman and a curate with all the 
attendant choir, holding forth to a dozen or more of the 
faithful, whilst in the more fashionable p?.rishes few 
churches are filled to their capacity. However this is 
not the case in Swanage, which being the hone of John 
Veiiley, has a strong following of IJon --Conformists nearly 



■211 



equalling that of the Church of England residents there. 

As the Church bells "began to ~oll I v^andered through 
the tovTn to see the Sunday parade. I had passed the 
Wesle^.^n Church and several others whose congregations 
crowded about the doors in their anxiety to get in, and 
was proceeding up the hill when I heard the Episcopal 
Church nearby- ringing its peal in a merry fashion. Desir- 
ing to see liow this was done I proceeded to the church to 
find that it was already filled to overflowing and that 
many were being turned awaj-. i 

As the peal or old-fashioned bell ringing is little 
known in this country', I will say a word about it. A peal 
usually consists of seven bells turned in the scale of C. 

Thus if the fundamental C. be rung once at Lhe begin- 
ning and once after the six others have successively been 
rung, there will be a complete octave in effect, though 
not in reality. IIow in chimes the bells are struck by a 
hanuner virhile the bell remains stationary, but in bell ring- 
ing or pealing this is not the case, the bell is tolled 

in the ordinary manner, and in a complete revolution j 

i 
is struck twice by the clapper. It is this, that gives 

bell ringing such a curious character. In effect there 

'is a harmon^"-, and ;.-et an apparent discord. The bell ropes 

; of each tell in the cliurch I mention was manned "by a husky 

i lad or a man over whom the head bell ringer dominated. 



-212- 



I By indicating successively'- the bell to be tolled there 

j was produced a series of double bell strokes \7hich al- 

! ■chough not producing a melody, obtained a harmony, that 

j 

I sv/ept in surging vibrations over the village end must 

; have awakened the dead in the grave yard from their slvim- 
bers, had it continued much longer. But at a final growl 
■of the bass or fundamental, the organ in the church burst 
forth in a peal of melody and as I left the scene the 
choristers were marching in to that beautiful processional 
singing, "Onward Cliristian Soldiers, marching on to War, 
with the cross of Jesus going on before." 

I had arranged to join my friends for a walk over the 
chalk cliffs in the afternoon to see the very interesting 
old church of Studland, but as I looked out over the 
channel, I saw the heavy storm clouds gathering and knew 
'that the prediction of my old sea dog was going to be true. 
jl therefore went to my friend's cottage near my hotel and 
iwe decided to await events. Xfe had not long to wait, for 
ivfithin an hour the wind had increased to a gale thiit i 
soughed and sighed through the trees and rattled the doors 
land windovrs as though it would break them in. It was a 
iwild storm, yet withal thei-e was no rain, and the v/ind I 
coming from the southard was not cold enough to be uncom- 
fortable. Ever ready for an adventure my friend suggested} 

i 
that we walk over the cliffs to the Tilly Y/liim Caves, 



^213- 



located on the head near St. Alban's Liglit. Prom this 
point he argued we might see the surf and yet "be safely 
protected fron the s terra. I accepted, and the two eldest 
children pleading so hard to accompany us their mother 
consented and off vie went in great glee. 

^e had not gone far however before we found it diffi- 
cult to face the gale, nevertheless by taking advantage 
of such shelter as we could find we reached the woods that 
skirt Durlston Bay, and following the path emerged into 
the open road which leads to the Light House. This road 
winds gradually down to the light but being long and cir- 
cuitous, my friend decided to take a short cut down the 
grassy slope and reach the caves bofore the rain should 
ouertake us. The slope being at an angle of 45 degrees 
was very slippery and I feared that if any of us should 
miss our footing, nothing on earth could save us from 
falling into the channel, which was now a seething caul- 
dron of hissing surf lashed into a mad fiiry by the gale. 
Unfortunately we had dela3'ed too long, the storm accom- 

; panied by a driving rain that cut us to the quick was now 
upon us in deadly earnest. ITo thing daunted, we attempted 

j to descend in the face of the blinding rain, when a miglity 
gU3t literally blew us backward up the decline. In the 
roar and tumult it was imroasible for one to be heard. My 

; friend who had rushed blindly into the storm, had reached 



-214- 



L 

tiie path leading to the caves and was waving frantically 

for us to follow. If he called to us we never heard hiia j 
nor would it have been possible so terrific was the roar 
of the gale. The children and myself stood for an in- 
stant with our backs to the driving rain in order to tie 
handlcerchiefs over our mouths, so that vie might breathe; ' 
for the air vras so saturated with moisture that we felt 
as though we were drowning. Then, as if by coiomon consent, > 
we turned back up the slope and were aluoso lifted there j 
by the force of the v/ind. Gaining the roadway we found a \ 
stone wall nearby which formed a wind-break about four 
feet higa, behind this v:e sat to catch our breath while 
the rain drove over us at such speed that 've were as dry 
there, as under a roof. Hot far from us were a flock of 
sheep who with the instinct of self-preservj.tion, load 
also souglat the shelter of the wall. Tliere they stood 
quite oblivious of us patiently awaiting the abatement of 
the gale and seemed to take the event as a common occur- 
rence. Tliey ho^TBver, had a great advantage over us for 
their woolly coats being smoothe and oily, shed the rain 
like the feathers of a duck; v/hilst we were literally 
drenched to the skin. Pearing that the children would 
catch cold if we remained longer I induced them to pro- 
ceed and finally we regained the wood. Once there our 
spirits revived, and wo itere v/alking along laughing at 



-215- 



our exi^erience, \ihen lo, in a sheltered nook, vrhom should 
we discover but the mother and her other little bairns, 
who fearful for our safety'-, }md come with her brother-in- 
laT7 to bring us home. Learning that we xrere all sai'e a 
smile p-i3saed over her face and in a cheery manner she sent 
us home, promising ta follow as fast as the little tots 
could follow. 

It was six o'clock that night when I rea'^lied n;,' 
hotel. Already'- it had gro\Yn dark and althougli the sun 
had nearly set l!he wind had abated but littl3. Retiring to 
my room I called for the maid and handing hnr my v/et cloth- 
ing to dry, retired to oed and fell inoo a heavy slumber 
from which I did not av;ake until the next morning. 



-216- 



BACK go LOITDOII. I 

i 

KefTeahed ami invigorated "b" my night's rest I awoke 
earl7 zlie next day, and looking out of my window thought 
I sav; the sun at-::eiapting to peep through the heavy cunu- j 
lou^ clouds that floated over the ^.iDay. The storm had 
olovm itself out, hut "chere was a tremendous sea running, 
the roar of which I could plainlj' hear although my hotel ] 
was at considerable distance from the sea. A dozen or 
Miore fishing iDoats had taken refuge in the harhor during 
the nig]it and were riding at anchor, tossing and pulling 

■ at their chains as though they were tethered mustangs. 

i Galling for my clothing which the xnaid had dried and 
pressed, I hurriedlj?- dressed and after a cup of coffee 

! 

i v;ent out on the pier. notwithstanding the fact that it 
I was most substantially huilt and sheltered from the 

Channel the waves had washed clear over it in the niglit 
1 and a small steeamer that had been lying alongside, had 
j found the berth so dangerous tliat she had cast lose and 
I scudded before the gale up the Solent to Portsmouth. 
j Returning from the pier I went to bid my friend 
! goodbye and learned from him that he had not only reached 

the "ill;' ^''liim caves safel;--, but that he had secured a 



-217- 



fine TTater- color sketch of the surf and shore. 

After ■blading all gcocl-'b^e I vr.z rotum.lng to ia2r 

'hutfii vihen a comiaotion on the pier attracted ray attention 
and I went down to ascertain the cause. An old salt 
necirty pointed to a large paddle wheel steamer putting in 
to the pier. "Well vfiiat of it," I inquired; "She's a 
go in' to land, sor". "Veil, v^hat of tliat," I continued, 

I "there's nothing nexr in a channel steamer landing here." 
"Oh no sor", he replied, "urilj'- she's a "big 'un and left 
Portsmouth this inornin' "bound fur Cherbourg." "Well, then, 

i-why don't she go there?" I ventured. The old tar shifted 
his quid and giving lae a scornful look, blurted out: "Gawd 
sor, she couldn't live in the sea cut there, an' she's 
got 800 trippers aboard." I was not entirely of his 
opinion, however, for as the steamer cane up to the pier 
I saw that she was a very powerful boat of about 1500 tons 

I "burden. Doubtless she could have ridden out the sea. But 
the excursionists, "oh ye gods", what of them? TTliat a sorry 
spectacle. Men, women and children lay about the deck in 
the most deplorable condition - some too weak to rise 
their heads, had to be carried ashore while all were pale 
and wan from the terrible tossing they had received and 

'were more or less drenched with the sprry thnt had come 
aboard. I could learn little about the party, except that 
tl'.ey had set out from Pnrtcmcuth in high spirits in the 



-218- 



morning exr:eGting to spend a jolly da;'" in Cherbourg a- 
cross the Channel, hut ilie sea had proved so heavy that 
the captain had wisely put in'oo Sv;anage, \vhere although 
excursionists are no~ encouraged to land, they xrero kind- 
ly received by the townspeople. Surelj?- here was an excit- 
ing incident for sleepy old Svranage and I only regretted 
that I could not reioain to get a further glimpse of the 
mass of humanity that landed there that day. 

Hy trip to London xvas made agreeable b;*- a South 
African and his vrife who occupied the same compartment I 

wioh myself. Prom him I learned much of Johannesburg ^ 

I 
and the mines in which he was interested. Twenty-five | 

years agone he had been a lad in London with little or 

no prospects for making a livelihood. Chafing under the 

! intolerable condition T^iich surrounded him, he load shipped; 
to Cape Colon;'-, and load become rich from the opportunities 

j the new count r;^ offered. It v;as ver;r interesting to hear 
him lash his ovm countrj'-men for their lack of enterprise j 
and contentment with dirty old London. Bur as I ex- 
plained to him, during his absence he had become an ! 
Africander, his s^'mpathies and interests wore v/ith his 
people in the South, and he now sav; his native land as a 
stranger. He adr:iitted my argument, but deplored the lure 
of London that held so many able-bodied people enchained. 
At Southampton we secured luncheon baskets and being 



-219- 



quite alone in our compartment set our little tatle and 
dined tr)gether in true old-fashioned cainaradsrie. 

Prow my cunversauion vvioh this gentleman and his 
wife, I think the true Afrj.cander is nore like an American 
than any othur rTationr.lit^-- I have ever met. Resourceful, ' 
self-reliant, enterprising, and courageous, they have dug 
their gold from the bowels of t;he earth and sown it broad- 
cast in a thousand enterprises that are making of South 
Africa a nation that will in time rival our own. i 

Our train arriving in London I bade him ajid his wife i 

good-b3'-e, and as he shook my hand he said, "We have had a | 

delightful trip together, I wonder if we shall ever meet 

again." "I fear not," I replied, for a week hence I sail 

for ITew York and you for the Antipodes's,. Yet, I knew in 

i 
my heart" that God's ways are greater than man's, and that ' 

fate might, ere we knew it, drift us together again. 

lly return to London was to be short, for the first of 
September liaving arrived, we liad but ten days left before 
VTG were to sail from Liverpool. I called my companions 
together and we lald< out a short trip to occupy tlie few i 
remaining days abroad. It took us a day or more to make 
some purchases, and bid goodbye to our friends, then we 
were read^i-. ! 

I wish before leaving London. I could g:' ve a resiimee 
of the gallex'.'fcs and their collections, the theatres and 



-220- 



their plays and above all, a slight glimpse of the verj'' 

great ohangss that are talcing place in the city owing to 

the underground rail^zays and penny tubes that run in 

everj'- direction sometimes 200 feet under the city's 

i 

massive buildings. Tliese extremely cheap and rapid means 

of transit are rapidly transforming London, so that in ten 

years it will be a cit:'- of such colossal proportions that 

I 

other cities will be villages in comparison. As an example 

of the speed of the penny tubes, my experience laay be in- 
teresting. I flined with a friend in Golder's Green on our 
last night leaving his house at nine in the evening and 
in less than half an hour was landed at Tottenham Court 

Road, a run of seven miles into the cit;''. The actual run- 

i 

ning time, I think, was 20 minutes and when I arrived at 
my hotel I had made the trip in just half an hour. This 
is rapid transit in fact, and I little wondered as I sat 
in my room a few moments later, tliat the e:^od\is is pushing 
out into the suburbs , where the air is clearer and the sun 
can be seen on a fair day. A thousand other things I 
should like to relate, but now we must say au re voir to 
London, for time and tide wait not. 



-221- 



In ordor 1:0 make the seven days' trip as rapidly as 
possi"ble, we had our trunks sent forv7ard to Liverpool "by 
advance luggage on The Great Western R. R, As the term 
"advance Imggage" is one that is \inknovni in this country, 
a word ahout this excellent system, will he necessary. 
Expressage is less exi.ensive in England than in the 
United States, nevertheless, it would have cost a pound 
or more to have expressed our trunks to Liverpool. I was 
therefore surprised when the head porter informed me that 
the cost by advance baggage would only be a shilling for 
each trunk or three shillings in all, but in order to 
receive this rate he advised me that it would be necessary 
I for us to sign a document by whj.ch we would agree to pur- 
chase three tickets on the G. ¥. R. R. to Liverpool within' 
the coming week. I 

As vje were perfectly willing to do this, our baggage 
was called for, and two days later WciS delivered in the 
Hotel Adelphi, Liverpool. Surelj'' hsre i,:; a convenience 
to travelers which we have not ^-et secured. I may remark 
"en passant", that the Parcel Post rs: another. 
I It is about a two hours ' run on en e:cpre3s from London 



I 



-222- 




Afercery .^»e. 



Ito Can~ei-bur:/. Our route Ir.y tlirougli Ileni: jus':lr called 

I 

ftlie garden of England. At al^oui; 4 P.M. v;e shopped a^ 
fciatiiai;! , a yerj- imp or".; ant tjanufac".:uring town and a'c 
five o'clock reached our destination. Tlie hotel \ie had 
selected X7as "Tlic Fleur de Lz's", located on "che nain 
Street, reputed to he the oldes'c hostelr:.' in England, a 
[part of it having he en huilt in the 13th Eentur;r. i was 
greatl" interested in i:he building thouj^h the modem in- 
stallation of electric lights detracted somev/hat from its 
ancient character and it was not until the dinner v;as 
served h" old and faithful servants that I began "oo feel 
quite at home. The dcferonce and decorimi of tliese ser- 
vants was a delight and the cuisine xnuch the saxiie as tliat 
of all English hotels, xhat is to say hiediocre, but when 
one leaves the Continent one must not coiriplain. The 

English have their tastes and believe in their dishes as 

I 

tftuch as the Erench do in theirs. 

Canterbury in liistoric interest, is a to'.m the 

tourist should not pass "by. Its beautiful Cathedral is a 

jstudy for the student, and the vi^al English hisoor3' that 

centers around it endears it to every good Englislnaan. 

I iiave not the time to quote, but the place v;here Tliomas 

j 

A. Beckot was killed is still shovri and is quite authentic. 

"■//e were unfortunate in the hour we selected to visit the 

cathedral for the norning services were about to take 



-225- 



— J_ 

placG and t/e had the alternative of being locked in or 
loclced outr We chose the latter and "being directed down 
the nain street to the R.R. Station, decided to spend the 
dav in Deal. 



-224- 



DEAL . 

Deal is a seashore resort fourteen iniles from 

I Canterbury and about ten frora Dover. It is £i,n linattrac- 

I 

I tive village located on a vast meadow v/liida like that of 

j Atlaiivic Git3", slopes do^Tn to the sea. In picturesqueness 

I it has none of the beauties of either Dover or Swanage, 

I but it has that T;hich is Yevy necessarjr for a seashore 

j resort, a beautiful shingle beach Eiiles in extent. Once, 

' one of the ancient Cinqtie Ports, it lias become the ren- 

' dezvous of English fair-ilies xirho enjoy sea-bathing. 

After luncheon at The Black Horse Tavern in the town 

vfe went for a stroll on the beach. A milii:ary band was 

regaling the proix^naders and the nurse maids and children 

v;ere liaving a merry time paddling in the sea which to our 

surprise was as smoothe as glass. So placid was it that 

my 3'"oung companions could scarcely believe they were 

j looking on the dreaded English Cliannel, and hiring a 

I wherrjr rovred out toward the iron pier. The tide rises and 

I falls in this vicinity about 21 feet making a tremendous 

i current when at its half flood or ebb, but at the time 

! 

j thejr started it had attained its full flood, and they 
therefore had the advantage of the slack. However an 



-225- 



hour later Tdien the3'' returned the ebb xras comraenclng; and 
shortly after that, the current had attained such velocity 
that onlj-- po'.Terful steoiaers could stem it. 

As the average visitor little understands the power 
of these currents he -will do uell to find a safer place 
for his nautical excursions, for my par"C I have never en- 
thused over the English Channel as a cruising ground for 
I have seen it in too many austere noods and know too well 
its dangers. About Deal the coast is especially dangerous 
for the reason tlaat the treacherous Goodwin Sands lie only 
a few miles off the shore and the number of lives that 
have been lost there will never be known. The Goodwin 
Sand and the Manicles that lie further to the westward 
are undoubtedly the most dangerous places in tlie English 
Channel, and all good sailors heave a sigh of relief v;hen 
they have passed them by and put out into the broad 
Atlantic . 

It was my good fortune to find some old Yorkshire 
friends stopping in Deal and after a cup of tea in their 
hospitable home, we wandered out upon the beach and en- 
jo3'-ed a jolly afternoon until the departure of our train 
for CanterbuTir. 

I In returning to o\ir hotel on arriving in Canterbury, 

[ 

it was neces3ar3'- for us to proceed up the High Street 
which was, and still is, the main thorouglifare or post 

-226- 



I road, to and from the totm. How many pilgrims have passed 
' in and out this road, it would be vain to surmise, "but 
their number must "be legion. The street is crowded with 
many qtiaint and interesting houses of the half timbered 
'■ construction so popular in the 14th, 15th and 16th Cen- 

i turies, and many "Pubs" indeed I cannot understand how 

i 

[ they all exist, yet the odor of tanneries and other works 

I on the outskirts of the city suggest a large laboring 

j population and it is no doubt from this class that they 

secure their patrons. Canterbury is today a tovvn of j 

j about 30,000 inhabitants, situated on a small stream called 

I the Stour, and its history has been that of the religious 

history of the land. 

j After the murder of Thomas a Becket in 1170, the 

' town became the undisputed center of religious life and 

is now dignified as the religious metropolis of England. 

Of the famous inns there still remains only the old 

Palstaff Inn on High Street, "The Chequers Inn" of 

Chaucer's day has disappeared; not\7ithst£inding this tliere 

is a wealth of historic material in the town in which an 

antiquarian could revel for months. 

The following day being Saturday, and not desiring to 

spend Sunday in a sleepy to\TO like Canterbury, we decided 

to proceed to Oxford, which at least would be on our 

homeward way. In order to do this it was necessary to 



-227- 



return again to London aJ3d take the Great 'Western R. R. 
upon which, according to our contract, \iq had agreed to 
travel to Liverpool. This forced us to double on our 
tracks and one joB.y justly ask vrhy we did not cross from 
Ostend, Selgium, to Dover and proceed up to London through 
Canterburj'' 3aving this detour. That would have been the 
proper route to have chosen on leaving Amsterdam and 
woi^ld have given us a glimpse of Antwerpp Brussels.- and 

Ostend. Unfortunately, there v/as an Exhibition in Brufl:;els 

i 

I at the time and this had encouraged so much travel via the 

Gstend route to and from England that accomrnodationswere 
|d?.ff?-cult to secure; furthermore a short time before our 
larr.-f.val in Holland half of the exhibition had been de- 

struyed by file, and the j.ncentive being gone, we wisely 
'Chose the route from the Hook of Holland to Harwich. 



-228- 



" Ell ROUTE ?0 OXPORD" 

It v;as a oeautiful morning v/hen V7e started on the ex- 
press, which t^;o ho\irs later landed us at the Victoria 
Station not far from Buckingham Palace the heart of aristo-^ 
cratic London. 

"he -/eather had heen so rainy and depressing during 
our foriTiar stay in the city that nov/ that the sun had 
come out to dispel the gloom an ujicontrollable desire 
came upon us to remain a few days longer so that we might 
enjoy it at its best. An odd confession this; yet true, 
nevertheless. Was it po3si'ble that in so cohort a time 
we v/ere beginning to feel the lure of London? Yes it 
'.".'as true - and nov; that we are three thousand miles away 
the delightful memory of our visit only makes it truer. 
But alas.' it was not to be. Hiring an auto we put our 
luggage aboard and were whirled off to Paddington Station 
at tv;enty miles an hoar. As we passed Buckingham Palace, 
with the new memorial now' being erected on the liall, to 
the late Queen Victor-'.a, we caat a last lingering look 

at it and the beautiful px-omenaie, and before we v/ere a- 

i 

! ware of it wore in Regent Gi'.rcus with its ever moving 

throng of h'jmanitjr. Up Regents Street \ie fle^;, passing 



-229- 



tlie eliT;e a'.iops of London, to Oxford Circus, whence up 
'^^ :>Tcl Street passed the iTew Selfridges Store to Paddington 
TT.-.en \7e arrived I asked the cabb;^ the fare; and paid hin 
the sun, giving hirn a shilling tip for the skill he dis- 
pla^^ed in passing in and out these cro'irdod thoroughfares 
TTithout a scratch. riie speed rre had laade across London 
gave us an }iour for luncheon "before the departure of our 
train. Heedless to say vre were read;-" for the meal. It 
|then becaiue necessary for us to cotiply with our contract 
with the G.T7.E.R, and buy our tickets to Liverpool. Desir- 
jing to stop at many places "en route", we decided to buy 
ifron point to point. I therefore went to the Booking 

Office and asked for tliree second class tickets to Oxford. 

! 

i^o my surprise the Booking Clerk informed mo that there was 

no longer a second class, only first and third. Kaving tray 

lelled on this road many tines before, second class, I could' 

scarcely believe him, and asked him how long this new class-^ 

ification had been in effect. "Oh," he replied, "since this 

morning." We thereupon bought tliree first class tickets 

paying the round sum of 31 shillings and 6 pence for them. 

As the Paddington Station is one of the largest and most 

confusing, we got a porter to put us on the train, an 

exi:roBs, and asked him wlaat had become of the second class 

carriages. "AIi," he said, "'ere's one, onl^r it's got a 

tliree painted on the door Instead of a two." VZe looked 



-230- 



it over and sure enough he had let the cat out of the "bag. 
Tiiereafter v/e bought third class tickets and saved just 
one half on our trip to Liverpool. 

I mention this incident to show how the coEipetition 
betTxeen the various R. R. lines is slov/ly but surely giving 
the people of moderate means better acconmiodations for 
their money. It is a virell known expression in England 
that only fools and Americans travel first class. That, 
hov;ever, is not altogether just, for it often happens | 
that the second and third class carriages are so crowded 
ithat one is forced to travel first class or remain for a 
later train. ^Nevertheless , every indication points to an 
elinination of the second and the advancing of the third 

class on all the English R.R. 's, so that they will even- 

I 

'tually have cheaper fares than \re have in this country. 

Our route lay through the beautiful mid-counties of 

England which on this fair early autumn day, vrore to be 

seen at "cheir best, the harvesters had already gathered 

'their crops, the shooting season had opened and as we 

i 

'passed the large turnip fields we could see the sportsmen 

[and their dogs beating the fields in search of the wiley 

pheasant. 

i Tiien we reached Slough, where a short branch road 

I 

I runs up to Windsor, I regcetted thr^t our time did not al- 
I low us to spend t: e day there, for on a former trip I had 



-231- 



discovered a charming little inn near the Castle and I 
would have liked to have vi^iited it again. Eut we ha-f*. no 
time to dall^. A short time after Isaving Slough we 
stopped at Reading and a half hoiir later v/sre in Oxforci.. 



-232- 







Oxford. <- 



I'athaniel Ka\7thorne is said to have viriften in one 
of his essays, "The T;;orlcl surely has not another place 
like Oxford, iz is a despair, to see such a place and ever 
leave it, for it would take a lifetine and more than one 
to comprehend and see it satisfactorily." 

Surely, after such an introduction as this, it v/as 
discouraging to tourists like ourselves to hope to see or 
comprehend much in a day and a half. Portunately I had 
visited this great University town tv:ice "before and the 
last time in company vrith my "brother Pred and together 
\7e had faithfully visited all the principal points of 
interest. 

Our visit this time was confined to onljr one College, 
Christ Church, which is one of the largest (accommodating 
250 students) and also one of the wealthiest of the group 
of 21 colleges that form the University of Oxford. Pound- 
ed in 1524 by Cardinal Wolsey, it is one of the most fash' 
iona"ble colleges and its Cathedral, the smallest in 
England; is used as the College Chapel. Justly famous for 
its ITonnan Architecture, it has some ^'ery beautifully 
modern stained glass v;indows which greatli'- add to the 



-233- 



beauty of its interior. The Q,uadrangle or f^uad of this 
college is the largest and finest in Oxford, and its 
hanc'sone gateway called the Toci Gate was begun ty ¥olsey. 
In its tov/er is hung a bell called Great Tom which weighs 

seven and one half tons and tolls the curfew ever;'' night 

I 

at five Eiinutes to nine, by striking one hundred and one 

strokes, indicating the number of students on the founda- 
tion. Five Liinutes later the college gates are closed 
all over Oxford, and the town then takes on its quiet 
pea.ceful air to last until the next raorning. | 

I It was our good fortune to visit the Great Dining 

I 

•tiall and Kitchens before the gates were closed to visi- 
tors. The Great Kail is a beautiful room 115 feet long 

by 40 feet wide and 50 feet high. It is lighted on both 

I 

sides by long lancet windows, and the carved oak Tuaor 

ceiling gildad and decorated adds greatly to its beauty. 

Around the walls wore hung many portraits of the famous 
i 

'graduates and others. Among the number I noted a por- 
trait of Gladstone by Millais , one of Henry "III by Kollbein, 
one of Q,ueen Elizabeth by Zucchero and one of John Lock© 
by Leiy. Mow many others there were, I do not remember, 
but the majority v/ere portraits of high dignitaries of 
•the Church of England. This fact led me to inquire fur- 
ther and I learned greatly to my surprise that the total 
revenue of the University of Oxford was i 400,000 per 



-234- 



1 annua and that it had in its gift 450 ecclesiastical 

I 

I livings Talac?d. at £ 190,000,- that of Carrjbridge being 

i 370 livings valued at £ 100,000. Here was the explana- 

i tion readily enough. Think of it. These two Universities 

I control 820 livings valued at '-pi, 450, 000 per annum, or an 

i „ 

I average of §8,600. each. However many of the clergymen 

i occupying these livings I regret to say are miserably 
under paid, whilst others are grossly overpaid. I remem- 
ber once having this made quite clear to me, when I was 

shown a parish church, near a manufacturing town the cler- 

i 
gynan of v/hich, I was told, received the munificent sum i 

of £ 300 or $1500 per annum. On another occasion in 

coaching through Cornwall, I was shown a magnificent 

j parish church set in the centre of a vilD.age of twenty 

houses i' the clergyman of which received L2,000 or 

$10,000 per annum. Is it little wonder therefore, that 

there is great dissatisfaction at this injustice? Pur- 

! thermore, in England, we must remember, the people are 

I taxed for the Established Church, and ITon-conf ormist 

j though one be, he must pay the tax although he mii.y never 

! desire to enter the shrine of the estate. 

I On returning from Ohritbt Church College to our 

I Hotel, dignified by the ecclesiaf uical title of "The 

' Mitre". I was sorrjr to note that the sun had become ob- 

soured under a heavy bank of wind clouds that portended a 



-235- 



cold ancl dreary- day for the morrow. lEy companions who hcd 

preceded me had retired to their room and ordered a fire 

built, to the great surprise of the maids Tvho found the 

ho'iiel warm o.nd comfortable. Probably'- if we had had to 

work aj hard as they, we too would have found the house 

warm, but 65 degrees was not a comfortable tsmpera'-i'.re to 

i 

us. Hov; they manage to keep warm in the winder in such a 

countrj'-, is a problem. ?ew houses or hotels liave any other 
means of heating than small open f ire-p^'.aces, v.'hioh burn-- 
ing semi -bituminous coal require an eternity to get sta-^ed 
and then only give out enough varmth to take the chill ovt 
of a tomb-like room. 

That night we dined with the other guests in ~he cozy 
dining room of the hotel, being served an excellent meal 
a I'Anglaise. Although it was not yet the opening of the 
college term, the hotel was filled T;ith English pecpla, we 
being the only Americans among them. The dinner over, I 
went for a walk through the tovm. To my surprise, the main 
streets were brilliantly lighted and thronged with boys 
and girls, men and v;omen of evei^;'- station in liie making 
their purchases for the morrow, Ir.ughing and. jok\ng as 
they pacsed up and dovra the fatieots, w-iose s.rae wn,ll:3 
weae so narruv that thoy were forced to take to the road- 
way to the great disgust of the av.toigts, w'^o dared not 
proceed at a speed above a snail's paoe. Prom \/hence all 



-236- 



th-GSfe; people a me I do not know for the town onlj*- has a 
pc-piOp/t.; on of about: 55,000, and there bsJng no xnanufactor- 
ie.i near oy, I cjlu onl;r surmise that they ■mere actual resi- 
dents. Howovtr, I concluded that the county seat of 
Oxfordshire, (an Episcopal See) and the most ancient and 
celebrated Universitjr in Europe, has gathered together as 
large a population as jrnan:'' of our great University towns 
in this country. 

As I had anticipated the next day Sunday broke with an 

i 
overcast sky and a cold north wind that chilled cne tc the 

bone nevertheless I ventured out for a walk on the meadows 

that border the River Thames and returning by Polly Bridge 

heard the Church bells ringing. I therciupon decided to 

go to church. Amid such a wealth of churches I was at a 

loss which to select, but finally nearing a beautiful 

church on the l/Iain Street, which ceemed to be attracting 

many of the townspeople, I entered. The services were 

I 

jjust beginning and noting the large choir and the Dean and 

other clergymen with their brilliantly colored hoads , I 

anticipated a rare and interesting service. Imagine my 

[disappointment when the choir began to chant the Te Deum 

in a dreary nasal manner that nearly drove me mad; then 

follonud the long and tedious prayers, and seme more 

chant.'.rtg until the offsrtor^'- was taken. Ah.' now, thought 

I, we chall have an interlude on the organ by a competent 



-237- 



iLiubical Bachelor zhut will make me forget the aelinquenciea 
I 
of the choir. Alas.' whoever was at -che key board had 

nothing to say and knew nox \7hither he was drifting. Prom 
the ciorciinant he progressed \>y a simple transivion to the 
iQinor, then again the raajor then to the aiminished seventh 
and after an uneventful wandering, arrived at the dominant 
with which he had comraericed. Surel;-' a pathetic musical 
wandering this; for an interlude that should have touched 
the hearts of the congregation and made them weep. 

But finally the Dean ascended the pulpit and in a 
feehlQ voice read the text. Hardly had he finished when 
I saw in his face that "beautiful spiritual expression, that 
only years of coianunion with God can give. An old man 
with snow white hr.ir carefully dressed, he in his pure 
7rhite surplice and hrillianx college hood, stood there a 
living excimple of Ozcford's culture and the sweet and ser- 
viceable life which the clerg^'' of the English Church lead. 
As he progressed with his sermon, hio voice grew stronger j 
and ere long he had the congregation completely under the 
away of his scholarl;' mind. That his message of gentls - 
ness, love, hope and faith reached the hearts of many 

hat day, I am sure for as we passed out of the church 
I saw many eyes of the congregation sul'fused with tears 
as they took t}ieir way homeward strengthened and upheld 
ty his good words. Gratified that m;/ lonely adventure 



-238- 



k 



had-^noir T^een xirLrewarded^ XTretrurrie<Li;o^th^-'h^^e^ Then, 
I thought it would "be verj'- interesting to write -9omeT?hat.- 
of the college life in Oxford, and show by what forms of 
Academic training such beautiful and scholarly men as our 
Dean, were produced. But that would be a long story, ajid 
soiaewhat beyond my purpose. Suffice it, both Oxford and 
Cambridge produce many such men and a degree from either 
of these colleges can only be won by untiring effort and 

1 study, 

I Now if I were to be asked what was the most beauti- 
ful thing I saw in Oxford that drearer Sundajr afternoon, 

i 

what do you think I should reply? — A pretty girl poling 
a skiff down the Is is, you may yenture, — Ko, not that. j 
-- iJThat then? you ma;'' justlj' ask. ^ell, I will tell you. 
It was a swan f Ij'-ing up the Isls . She had hatched her I 
i brood and having taught them how to navigate and search 
their food had left them to their own resources. A cruel 
nother you will say. Not so my fr-send, for by her action, 
she forced her offsprings to beccine self-reliant and 
worth;^ of the noble race of b.-'.rds from which she came. 
i This is precioel;- what happens to the Oxford graduate 
when he leaves the Unive.rbity, His Alma Mater teaches 
him the importance of unrelenting study -civile he is in the 
collage, she offer? pri'^fts in many forms so that he may 
not start out into the world vjiprepared or unknown. But 



-239- 



once without her dcroainy, he must xnaka h.i3 mork by his ov.ti 
gf;nioas and exertion. ShouD.d he select the church for 
his career he will find her his loyal supporter. Shou.i.d 
he select literature or any other career, hie dogree be- 
comes an asset of real value to him for the reason that 
in acqufrlng it; he has had to do the t/ork and "by the 
results prove h;"-& worth. It is for this reason that an 
Oxford or Cc^jnbriclge degree is so highly'' prized. ^ile 
the degrees conferred B.A.- M.A. , L.L.D. are purely 
Acaden.ical or Scholarly degrees- the degrees of Bachelor 
and Doctor of Medicine - and Lav; are ver3/- practical. Some 
colleges also confer the Mus . 3ac. or Musical Bachelor 
degree, which from friends, I know to be one of the most 
difficult of attainment demanding an amount of original 
creative work that would amaze the stud&nts of our Con- 
servatories in this country. j 

One other interesting question and wo shall leave 
Oxford: I have been asked since my retiirn, what inf-lxxence 
the Rhodes scholarships will have upon the University, 
An annual invasion of a hundred or more prize studen-s 
from the wild and woolly world without mu-?.t surely'' create 
a splash in this center of scholas iicism. ¥:hile I have 
I no definite knowledge on this subject, reasoning by ana- 
logy from mj'' observations of London and its influence on 
character, I venture to predict that the splash these 



-240- 



Rhodes scholars make will be of short duratiann. As 
London lures all and tornes all vrho come within her gates, 
so Oxford, with her centuries of precedent aiid culture, 
will surely do the same. 



-241- 



LE/JC1TG?0]^. 



If ITathanlel Hawthorne considered it difficult to see 

and Gorapreliend the artistic and literary treasures of 

I 

Oxford in a lifetime, how u~~eil;' impossi'ble then. laust i 
it ha^e heen for us to see and comprehend the land cf 

Shah&pcare in the two days we had allotted, nevertheless 

I 
we jiade the attei^pt and if we have cnl;" returned with a ' 

detjre to pay it another visit our time vras not wasted. i 

In order to facilitate our trip we decided xo stay 
at Leamington, a ride of an hour and a half from Oxford. 
This town heing in the center of Shakspeare's countr3'-, and 
on the Main line north to Liveipool, we could thug readily 
make our excursions to Kenllworth, ¥ar^7ick and Stratford , 
on Avon, and return in "irte to take the express northward 
through Einningham to Chester, which was to be our next 
place of rest. 

As this part of our journej'' vras of particular in- 
terest I shall relate in some detail how we accomplished 
the feat in so short a tine. 

It was about eleven o'clock on the iriorning of Sep- 
teiaber the fifth when we arrived at the fjne old .Manor 
House of Lean-iington. An interview wich the head porter 



-242- 



of the hotel coiriLionly called Boots, because forsooth, in 
ancient times it uas the duty of this functioncr;^ to clean 
the guests' boots, decided us to visit Kenilworth and 
^7nrT7ick in the afternoon and reserve the entire next day 
for Stratford on Avon. Accordingly v/e were shovm to our 
rooms and "before luncheon took a v;alk through the town. 

As Leamington owes its present prosperity zo certain 
mineral springs, which were discovered in 1797, "chere is 
little of historic interest in so modern a town. It is, 
however, a citj'- of about 30,000 Inhabitants, pleasantly 
located on a tributary of the Avon, called the Leam. Like 
Bath or Harrowgate it is a very aristocratic to'^Tn, with 
wide streets interspersed with trees and gardens, and 
during the season is much frequented by rheumatic and 
gout;' patients, who come to drink the waters. 

Of course it has a Ro;'^l Pump Room where the gouty 
gentry congregate to condone with one another and drink 
the nauseating sulphur water so beneficial to them, while 
a fine military band in the garden deludes them into the 
belief that they are quite well. Opposite the pump rooms 
are the very beautiful Jephson gardens with their noble 
elms, their extensive la\Tn8 and pretty flower beds that 
run down to the river, where swans and other rare aquatic 
birds disport themselves. At some distance from the en- 
trance there is an extremely attractive open air theatre 

-243- 



and auditoriuEi v/here, for e. trifle the towns people . ay 
enjoy good concerts and litxle plays. On xhe whole it 
is as delightful a place c.a one could desire on a sunny 
afternoon in surmer. Then one may see the ooys and girls 
of the vicinit;/- decked in flannels or other attractive 
costuiaes playing tennis or croquet upon the lawn, whilst j 
gathered about then are the elite of the tovra, watching | 
the sport. ' 

On the main street are many oeautiful stores and i 
shops wixh "Che latest Paris creations on exhibition indica- 
ting that they supply a verj' aristocratic clientele. Kot 
far from these on the Parade is located the Municipal 
offices or Cit3r Hall, a handsome Renaissance -^-structure 
wixh a Campanile that justly'- ranks it as the finesx 
"building in the town. 
j Returning to our hotel, luncheon being announced, we 

entered with several other guests and were quietly seated 

I 

at table when a tall raw boned lady not very prepossessing 

iin appearance entered and took a seat at a table near by. 
Prom the deference the head waiter paid her I imagined 
she was one of the nobility or gentry, and this was con- 
firmed a moment later, when he very politely asked her how 
she was feeling that bright and sunny morning. "AliJ" she 
eplied,"I'm very poorly, thank ye. Yesterday the doctor 
ordered ne to take me draught of water hot, and today I'm 






-244- 



very, very ill.'" I glanced at her florid complexion 
which certainly did not indicate poor health, and was at- 
tempting to suppress a smile ',7hen the steward quite inno- 
OGntljr said: "Wouldn't your ladyship like a brandy and 
soda?" In a stentorian voice that could be heard all 
over the dining room she replied: "Of course I'd like a 
cranc'y and soda; of course I v/ould; but I'm not to have 
one, the doctor said, rrliile I'm taking the waters and 

1 

I've two weeks more of that ahead of me." Tlie steward 
withdrev; at this pathetic sally and sent a waiter to take 
iher order for luncheon; when we had finished and were v;ith- 
drawing from the room she was still there eating and nurs- 
ing a pot of tea that she regarded with an air of pathos 
which plainly said: "I'm not to have any spirits while 
I'm taking the waters, but God bless you my little friend- 
he daren't take you from me, no, he dare not do that, for 
I'd die if he did." I left her there fondling her little 
pot of tea and despite the humorous side of the situation, 
pitied those of the good old English aristocracy', who not- 
withstanding their v:ealth and station, are saturated with 
gout and rheumatism, the results of their own folly. 



-245- 



laiTIL^O RTH OA STLE. 

Tiie afternoon proving fair vre took the train for 
Kenj.lvvortla and a lT;alf hour later were landed, in tlie vil- 
lage. Tl^e castle luring, however, a nile or so from the 
station, wo bargained with a cab laan to drive us there, 
and finding h: m very entertaining, and an excellent guide 
as v/ell, \?e later engaged him to drive us to \7arwick, 
five riiles a\7ay, 

Kenilworth is too well known to require a lengthy 

.description from ny pen. Ijninent authorities consider 

it the most extensive and finest baronial ruins in England. 

It is at present the property of the Earl of Clarendon 

who occupies a pretty residence near the entrance formerly 

'called Leicester's Sate House. ITotwithstanding- the ex- 

icellent map and description furnished ^oy Baedeker, it is 

extremely difficult to comprehend the 3±ze of this ancient 

castle or the beauty of the grounds which in olden times 

were maintained in a high state of artistic cultivation. 

Surely it must have been a monumental pile before iz was 

I 

demolished for the sake of its material by one of Cromvrell'e 

officers, for -he remnants that still remain, make a monu- 
ment that attract tliouso-nds of tourists yearly. Although 



■246- 



ithe coxairiencejuent of the castle dates from the eleventh 
Icentury it was not until it was presented by Queen 

i 

Elizabeth to her favorite the Earl of Leicester, who s^ent 
enoririous sums upon it and the surrounding grounds, that 

I 

it attained to its higtiest magnificence. It was here that 
Leicester entertained his ro3*al patroness in 1575, the 
account of which has been immortalized by Scott. 

Of this great historic English ruin Baedeker says, 
"Perhaps no other English castle has had more varied points 
of contact with English histor;?-, from the stormy and semi- 
barbarous times of Simon de Montfort down through the 
pompous and courtly luxury of the Elizabethan period, to 
the iconoclastic days of the Protectorate; while under 
the touch of the 'Magician of the l^orth', it loas renewed 
its youth in our own era, and ruin though it be, is more 
familiar to contemporary thought than almost any occupied 
mansion in the country." 

I A handsome tribute to Scott's genius this, is it not, 
and one that may well mo-ke the wealthy idler or the busy 

! 

man of affairs contemplate the unremuneraiiive art of 
letters with more charity. Each and every one of us 
should try before the icy hand of death shall have touched 
us, to leave the world better for having lived. With 
what prodigalitjr then has this famous Scotch poet and his- 
torian endowed us. Ah, as to that let the legions who 



love him reply.. 



-247- 



G UY'S CLIPP S. 

In order to take the most direct road to Warwick, 
our driver returned hy "che way of Kenilworth Village, 
passing "en route" the King's Arms Inn, in which Sir 
Walter Scott stayed while leaking his original sketch for 
his stor;-- of Kenilvrorth. Our driver informed us that 
although "Che village only had about five thousand inhabi- 
tants, Lhere vrere in the iramediate vicinitj"- no less than 
three fine packs of hounds, and almost an3'- day one could 
see the hunters romping through the rolling fields near 
by to catch the wily fox. Although I have been many 
times in England, I have never attended one of these fox 
hunting meets. However, from the experiences of friends 
I am quite willing zo believe that they are rare sport; 
unfortunately zhe early hour at v/hich they start is some- 
what of a tax on one who is accustomed to rise late in 
the morning. 

Waen 7/e had passed bej'ond the village a mile or so, 
the driver suddenly stopped and pointing to a lofty tree 
on the side of the road, said in a spirit of banter: 
"I'll give you gentlemen a hundred guesses to tell me "che 
name of that tree." "Oh," he continued, "you'll never 

-248- 



hit it, nors of 'em has done tha.t yet." Ihereupon he 
took his v/h;p and cut a few leaves from the overhanging 
bovAgh, a:ud handed the.tti to us. Tha leaves w^ro of an oval 
shape serrated on the edges \Tith a v;hite margin about an 
eighth of an inch around the border, while the center was 
of dark green. Tru].y I had never seen a tree with a leaf 
like that before, but as I looked at the trunk of the tree 
with its graceful branches spreading out like a bunch of 

ferns that had been tied to a stick I fancied I saw an 

1 

elm. At any rate I quite innocentlj'- said it was an elm, 
and the expression that passed over his face plainly told 
me that I had hit the mark; yet he continued to argue to ' 
the contrary J Finally he admitted that I was right. It 
was in fact a variegated elm, a freak of the forest compar- 
atively little known. Remounting his seat he drove us ' 
on and we heard no more from him until we reached Guy's 
Cliffs. I 

Here the road runs close to the Avon, upon the banks 
on which is built a picturesque little mill said to be of 
Saxon date, -pe that as it may, it is certainly very old, 
and what pleased me mott, a miller was busily at work | 
grinding the grain that had been brought him from the sur~ 
rounding country. ' 

We were intently watching the o'l.d mill and the miller 
when a young man with a strong ''H: nglf'.Lh haccent" came up 



-249- 



I 



to us and offered his services az historian of the place. 
I vjas ac fiiat disinclined to licten to him until he 
quoted some quaint poetry about the laill and the miller, 
the placid Avon, etc., and concluded with a little gem of 
a l3.-ric entitled "The Lovers". Having courted the i^use 
myself with some success, I thought it m'j duty to encour- 
age the bard, and asked him to tt;ll us about G-uy. the ' 
Earl of ^ar\7ick. It is quite i.iipcss;'.ble for me to give 
his inimitable style , but according to him, Guy must have 
been a verjr devil of a fellow, for he showed us a picture 
of this hero killing a dragon or dun oo\'f or some monster i 
of that kind of legendary lore and told me much more 
about the place that I have forgotten. However, during 
our conversation he asked me if I was a "literary gent", i 
to v/hich I pleaded guilt;"-, ^lereupon he requested me to 

shake hands with him, which I did, and we loarted firm 

I 
friends. Such is the brotherhood of those \\^ao court the 

ilus.e of Poetry. | 

It was about four o'clock when our cabby "put us 

i 
down" before the gate of Warwick Castle. I paid him and I 

giving him a "bob" for a tip hurried off to secure tickets 

of admission to the Castle. To my siirprise the entrance 

fee had been raised from one shilling to two "bob" (fifty 

cents) since I was last there. The old lady who sold me 

the tickets deplored the fact that the fee had been 

-250- 



raised, and the only reason I could ascertain from her 

I 

was that the Earl needed the money. However, I would not 
have missed seeing that noble old castle again for twice 
the sum, notwithstanding the fact thot the present Earl 
must obtain a large revenue from this source. 



-251- 



vZAP.^Ci: CAS TLE. 

Varwick is a place of great antiquity, having been 
founded in the year one A. D. "by ICing C3/ii'beline. Orig- 
inally a British settlement it v/aa later occupied "by the 
Komans , and is today a to^:m of about 12,000 iniiabitanta. 
The castle is located at the side of the town on a bluff 
overlooking the Avon, and the park surrounding it is of 
considerable size and very beautifull;/ cultivated. One 
beech tree I noted must have been several centuries old, ; 
and the flov/er beds added that necessary accent of color 
to the verdant green of the sloping lawns that made the 
view from the conservatories a picture for a painter. 

In the conservatory is the celebrated Wanvick Vase 
which was found in Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli, Italy, and 
transported at considorable expense to Warwick. On a for- 
mer visit this precious marble relic of the Romans v:as 
shown by an old gardener who had learned its h.'-stoi-y bj'- 
heart and repeated it in a quaint style that I have D.cng 
remembered. Alas, poor old chap, I fear he h?.s paosed 
away, for I saw him nowhere about. 

The castle being built upon a steep slope rising 
from the Avon was unassailable in olden timer from that 



-252- 





Yccryrtc 



1 



side, and it is here that the largest tuildings were 
wisely "ouilt. To protect the rear of these, a court 
atout 200 feet square was walled in with several towers, 
guard houses and gates. One of these towers built by the 
Romans being 150 feet high is called Caesar's tower. 
Once viTithin this pretty court a peaceful, homelilce feel- 
ing comes oyer one, and it is not surprising that the Earl 
and the Duchess of War\7ick love the place and spend much 
of their time in their beautiful home. 

The old guardian vrho showed us through the castle 
was a droll character who had been twenty-five years in 
the famili'^'s service. A tall heavily built man of sol- 
dierly bearing, he v/ould brook no interference or pleas- 
antry, while he was telling his story. When he had fin- 
ished one statement or bit of history, he would wait un- 
til that had saturated into the consciousness of the 
audience before he would proceed to the next. We were 
therefore an half hour or nore wandering from room to 
room, filled with rare paintings or other art treasures. 

The great liall whidi has been rebuilt since the fire 
of 1871 is one of the finest I have seen in England. Over- 
looking the Avon and the verdant meadows below the view 
from the wj.ndows is charmingly pastoral. Within the hall 
are all manner of trophies and enough armor to fill a 
museum. It is in this great hall that the faruily live 

-253- 



•when at hoine , Modern convenienceij su.cli as electric 
lights and stGjjci hea'j h:.ve "been insuaDlcd r-nd eYerimhere 
about are comi'orta"::le chairs, fauteuils and tables with 
aroicleB of use at hand, 

I was glad to see that the g.veat fireplace had been 
preserTed and was not a rriere ornaiaent to the room, for 
near it were piled several cords of wood cut to three 
foot lengths ready for use. I can picture the Earl, the 
Duchess, her son and her friends seated about this fire- 
place on a bleak winter night, recounting the stories of 
the "King Makers," i 

At some distance froia this groat hall there is a 
pretty little chapel, into vfhich tlie guardian quite apol- 
ogetically showed us, it being used for the noment as a 
store roon. Yet as I stood there regarding the wood carv- 
ings and quaint Gothic stalls, I v^ondered if he knew how 
important a role this room plaj'-ed in the D.ife of the [ 
earl" residents. ITow inolden times, and in soLie good old 
families the custom is still observed, the entire house- 
hold, guests, family and servants arc called together I 
for prayer twice a day, these services were held once in 
the morning before the day's work ccmmcnced, and once in 
the evening, when the day's work was over. This custom 
originated, I was told, from the relig'.oxis orders, which 
held regularly a short service of prayer and praise e\'-ery 



-254- 



three hours of the day of 24 hours. I cannot remeiii'ber the 
names of all these services or the exact hours at which 
they were given. Those that I recall were Lauds, Matins, 
Terce, Vespers, and Complins, - there were eight in all. 
Complins , "being the completion of the religious day. From 
the pra3^ers and chants of these eight services the present 
hook of prayer of the English Church was formed, a fact 
that seems to "be little known except by the clergy. 
I Our visit over, the old guardian hade us goodbye and 

we passed out under the portcullis near Caesar's tower down 

i 

the pretty wooded drivewa;' cut from out the solid rock to 
'the gate house where we had entered. A last lingering look 
at the finest and most picturesque feudal residence in all 
England and I was about to depart when the thought came to 
me: how happened it that this castle survived the Parlia- I 
mentary wars, when all the strongest baronial fortresses in 
England were demolished? And then I remembered that the j 
old guardian had told us, that the great, great (I have for 
gotten how many greats) grandfather, of the present Earl 
was a diplomat and by his astute diplomacy made terms with 
the Parliamentarians by which the present castle was saved, 
and has been held in their family line ever since. 

A short drive to Leamington and we were once more in 

our comfortable llanor House, seated before a cheery fire, 

! 

content with our daj'-;''^-^ excursion. 



-255- 



STRATPORD Oil AVOIT 



Tlie morrow dawned cold and overcast. As I arose and 

looked out upon the lawn "before my windov;, a vapor akin to 

etean seemed to he arising from the ground, The sparrows 

which the day "before had chirped a"bout my window were no 

longer to be heard, and although it wtis soven o'clock the 

hotel was as dead as midnight. Luring the night the cheery 

fire I had left in the grate had burned out and my room 

had become as cheerless as a tomb. I was grateful, there- , 

foro, when the maid brought me a jug of piping hot water, 

and after bathing dressed rapidly and went to breakfast. 

! 

As our train for Stratford did not start until nine o'clock 

we waited to see whether a storm was in brewing, but about 

a quartier to nine the sun peeped through the mist, and wg 

I 

forthwith started out. A run of about an hour brought 

us to the home of the Bard of Avon. 

After Washington Irving 's charming narrative of this 
listoric place, it would seem presumptuous of me to say 
an;^^hing; but I, too, am writing a narrative of my jour- 
ney, and since his visit in 1848 manv things have happened 

I 

AThich he would have included in his narrative were he 

alive today. ?or reasons I shall explain, this new moveaent 



-256- 



is destined to make the place more frequented in the 
future than it has ever been in the past. 

At present it is estimated that frora twenty to thirty' 
thuusa.nd pilgrims, principally Americans, visit tlie town 
annuallj'-. This is a fine tribute to our nation and is 
due very largel:' to the studjr of Ghakspeare's plays, which 
for years has become a part of our school curriculum. I 
believe this love for the poetic drama among our people 
will sooner or later encourage our playwrights to essay 
this forzii of drama, not for the sake of the profits it may 
bring, but because of the rank literary and otherwise 
the author may attain. At present we have no college de- 
gree for a master dramatist, such for example as that 
which is accorded a Husical Bachelor, yet the art is not 
one whit less difficult, and requires quite as many years 
of unrelenting study. 

The advent of a new era for Stratford on Avon began 
with the building of The Shakspeare Memorial Library and 
Theatre on the banks of the Avon in 1879. notwithstand- 
ing the ridicule cast upon the new building, because it 
does not hai-monize with the other half timbered archi- 
tecture of the toTTn, it serves a very laudable purpose, 
and if the intent of its founders does not miscarry, 
under the direction of Mr. P. R. Benson is destined to 
bring before the world new examples of the poetic drama, 



-257- 



for example, such as the Prize ^lay, "?iie Piper", by 
Josephine Preston Peabod;^, which was so superbly present-* ; 
ed there last s'Jiiiiner. During tlie past season, July 25th i 
to August 13th, nine plays of Shakspeare, also "The Piper", 
"Ilasks and Paces", and a "Polk Pestival of Song and 
Dance" were given with great success, and it is not too 
much to expect that the next season will be oven xnore 
eventful. j 

^en it shall become equivalent to liaving taken a j 
college degree of Master Tiranatist to have one's play pre- 
sented at this theatre, then will the tovm of Stratford on 
Avon, become what Oberammergau is to the Tyroleae, and I 

Bayreuth has been to the lovers of opera. j 

I 
In this new drarriatic movement at Stratford there are 

great possibilities, and it will be a thousand pities if 

they are not carried to this logical conclusion. 

To those cynics who fear that there a_-e not enough 
poet-dramatistB in this country and England to write even 
one nev/ and original drama each year, for sucli an enter- 
prise, I will say that there are many who would gladly j 
Qasay the task, if upon winning the prize they felt car- 
tain of seeing their pla;-- produced, under the favorable . 
conditions which now surround the Shakspeare Theatre. | 

But aside from this practical side of dreiiiatic present 
at ion, the memorial has anotlier equally important function* 



-258- 



It is the housing safel;'- of the valuable collection of 
Shakspeareana, which generous donors have £i,lreacly pre- 
sented to it. In the collection of paintings there are 
now many rare pictures all intimatelj'- associated with the 
work of Shakespeare, while the library' is destined to be- 
coEie one of the most complete and interesting in the 
history of the English stage. Thus far the Memorial has 
well fulfilled its purpose , and who can say that d day 
may not come when it shall become the acknowledged shrine 
of English dramatic art? 

It was in the Red Horse Inn that "JJashington Irving 
\rrote his chax-ming essa^r on Stratford, and it was tov/ard 
this historic hostelry that we wound oiir way upon arriving 
at the station. Learning that luncheon would not be 
served for an hour, we determined to visit Trinity Church 
and view the tomb of the famous Poet-Dramatist. 

It is customary in pilgrimages of this kind to visit 
the birthplace of the Eard first and conclude with a view 
of his tomb. We chose to reverse the procedure and if my 
narrative of the trip is therefore more erratic than that 
of other writers the cause will be clear. However a re- 
versal of ordinarj'- procedure is very desirable, for the 
reason that in running historically backward we often find 
a new lead or point of contact. A short walk brought us 
to the Chuich, situated amid a grove of noble trees on 

-259- 



zha "bank of the river Avon. Prom the roadTra;'- an alley 
of statelj'- elxrs leads up to the entrance of the Church 
which is cruciforia in plan, ceing surmounted at the centre 
by a graceful tapering to'.ver. The interior was mi'ch j 
larger than I expected froia the distant viowE, I hud ssen 
of the church, the recent addition of some fine stain^id 
glass ivindows giving a very decorative effect xo the 
chancel. One curious thing I observed, however, vw.s that i 
the chancel was not in a direct line with the nave, it 
doubtless having been built at an earlier period. :io'>7- 
ever this defect is scarcel3^ noticeable and the interior 
still confornis to the ecclesiastical points of the con- 
pass. The chancel being called the east in all English 
churches although geographically it nay point to the j 
north or any other point. i 

The chancel of the church is particularly fine, 
being beautifully decorated with a handsoxae carved marble 
altar with dossal curtains of red plush, as vrell as pol- 
ished brass candelabras and other appointiaents of recent 
date. But the chief point of historic interest is | 

Shakespeare's tonb which is a slab of marble let into the 

! 
pavement in which is carved the famous epitaph of the 

Bard of Avon: 

Good friend, Por Jesus ' sake forbearTi I 

To dig the dUBt enclosed here, 



-260- 



1 



I I 



Blessed "be he that spares these stones, 
And cursed be he that inoves my bones. 
C'he effect of this epitaph has been to prevent Shakespeare's 
I reii'iains from being removed to Westminster Abbey and Strat- 
I ford on Avon has consequently become his shrine. 

Returning to the hotel we lunched and then drove to 
Anne Hathaway 's Cottage, about a mile beyond the town. I 
airi glad to sa^-- thax this picturesque cottage is now the 
property of the state, and well maintained. A pretty 
countrj'- lass shovred us about and exlaibited the settle on 
which Shakespeare courted and proposed to Anne. Chere were 
many other interesting things in the cottage, but the most 
naive and original v^as the lass herself v/ho told her tale 
in such a convincing manner that one would liave been a 
brute to have doubted anything she said. 

A short drive brought us to Shakespeare's house, the 
home and birthplace of the bard, l^ius by contrarity had 
we journeyed from his grave to his cradle instead of from 
his cradle to his grave. 

I think I ai-Q quite within the realm of truth v;hen I 
say tliat there is no house in all England so interesting to 
(Americans as this. "I7e may be shovm the rarest treasures of ■ 
Snglish history and adijit a general interest in them, but as 
this history is alwa^^s a record of bloody wars, the theme "be- 
comes nauseating and vie gladly discard it for something 



-261- 



more beautiful. 

In Shakes per.re 's x.iany plays we find not only English 
historj'- but English custonis and manners, and most delight- 
ful of all "Che fanciful inspirations of a great poet. 

Eis plavs bring us nearer to the life of the times he de- 

I 

piots, and. consciously or unconsciousl;/ we are grateful 

to hin for the pleasure he has given us. It is in this 

! t 

spirit; the vast majorioy of our people visit his home, and' 

I venture to assert that none leave it without a loftier 

regard for his abilit-"- and an unbounded adiniration for 

i 

I the works he has bequeathed us as a heritage. 

I In the days of Washington Irving the house was shown 
by "a garrulous old lad3'-", - and kept in indifferent re- 
pair. Today it is in^ perfect preservation and the guard- 
ian, a sweet and amiable old lady of about sixti?-, takes a 
genuine love in showing one about. Aside from its archi- 
tectural interest, there is a wealth of literarjr treasure 
within this small abode that would make a bibliophile 
happy for the remainder of his life. Koting my interest 
in the manuscripts the dear old lady came over to me and 
pointing to a copy of "Midsianmer Might's Dream", printed 
in 1610, said there is onl^'- one other edition of this 
play more rare and that was printed in 1600. The copy is 
now in "The British liuseum". As I regarded the quaint 
copy and then looked up in the intelligent face;,. I wondered 



-262- 



by what m<*ann of mind reading shs had sslected the play 
of c.ll I lcY8 the r>.o£t» There wp.re many more valuable 
and hio turioallj'- iatereating inanu!:i'^r ipts in the case, why 
did she net mention them? But no, b3'- intuition she had 
doubtless read my thought and noting my interest mentioned 
the smallest edition, a single play, vriiich in olden time 
was sold for a couple of shillings. Prom this incident 
oiiT conversation led to the questioned authenticity of 
certain of Shakespeare's works, and wre we knew it we were 
both deep in the study of his personality and plays. 

It has been my pleasure to meet in my day ma.ny stu- 
dents well ^''versed in Shakespearean lore, but rarely have 
I met one so intimatelj?- acquainted with the life and works 
of the famous Bard. I laughingly'- told her so and advised 
her to v/rite a little history for the tourists. She 
blushed and apologetically disclaimed any literary abil- 
ity. Yet if the truth were known this dear old lady knew 
more about the subject than many of those who have written 
or discoursed upon the theme. If she would write the story 
In the quaint English in which she addressed me that day 
her narrative would have a charm that would make it worth 
whj.le- For art, as RuskJ.n has said: "is nature passed 
through the alembic of man". And Shakespeare's life and 
labors seen through her amiable personality would make a 
etory nicst compelling. 



-263- 



To rise froio obscurity and become a prince is the 
thsiae of laany a romance. Yet sucli stories are based 
upon the accident of birth, and final discovery of the 
real identity of the prince. There is little of interest 
to me in such stories for the reason tht^t the prince could 

not control fate, and hereditary glory is conferred, not 

I 
.achieved. | 

i 
The story of Shakespeare is iiameasural)ly more com- 
pelling because it is true. By his manhood he first 
learned oO conquer his o^n unruly spirit, and by unrelen;;- 
ing effort and genius he later attained to the highest i 
distinction in his art, the drama. Surely, here is mater- 
jial for a romance unequalled, yet incredible as it may 
appear none of importance has yet been vsa-itten. The cold 
Itruth is; his life is shrouded in mystery, and although 
e attained due recognition for his work v/hile alive, I 
am sure that if he v^ere to. return to this world today and 
hear the praises chanted in his neune , he would be the most 
surprised man in the v;orld. In fact, I think he •./ould 

! 

gladly cisk to be transported back to the realm where 
adulation is unknown, where name and fame are lost, and 
tjj-'ie and sp^. ce are one. 

I have no intention of writing the story of Shakes- 
peare's life, others have already done that, but that he 
was the grea'^est genius of his time I will gladly admit, 

-264- 



r 



I onljr ask thai; those poets rirhoa he gpithered atout hira and 
T7ho unqviestionabl;.- aided hici in many of his plays be not 
forgotten. 

I It was the custom of the period for great masters to 
gather about themselves, collaboraters and "by the united 
effort of all thejr thus produced innumerable works of 
merit. That Shakespeare did the same I am convinced; 

I that he wrote manj- plays unaided I am also convinced, and 

j I am satisfied that KidsuiDmer Hight's Dream, is one of 
them. To my mind, it shows him at his best, although "The 

j Tempest" in fanciful conception is a rare second and per- 
haps the most mature of his plays. However taste differs 
in these matters and it is difficult to decide. Suffice 
it, he was not only a great poet, but what is more impor- 
tant he was a very great dramatist, perhaps the greatest 
the English stage has ever known. 

Eut now w^e must leave him and his works to return 
once more to Leamington, and prepare for the morrov/'s 
j urn ey homeward . 

As I sat that night in my room before my cheer3'- fire, 
medixating over the wonders of the ds.y, my mind in fancy 

j Tv'as wafted back to the time when as a boy I sat upon my 
father's knee in the Old Bowery Theatre, to witness the 

! 

first Shakespearean drama I had ever seen. Then, as this 
memory psssed., half dozing, half awake, the various 



-265- 



-1 

chrxructHiT of his ple^ya passed in solemn procecsion "be- 

j r^'Txr rr^r:. crid ere I knew it, I v^as in that poet's dreamland, 

j 

j ''where axry nothings take a local habitation and a najne", 

Suuh is the influence of this great toaster's works, and 

happy is he, v;ho in meiaorj'-, can still fall beneath their 

Eiagic spell. 



-266- 




GAesie?'. - 



CKESTER 

It was another overcast day ■'.Then we left Leanington 
for Chester; unf ortunatel-"" we wore not a"ble to catch the i 
through train and consequently- were olDliged zo take a local 
to Birruinghaci where we intercepted a later express direct 
to Chester. A dela;;-'' of a half hour at Birruingliaia gave 

us a cliance to walk through the to'vra and see a lixtle of | 

i j 

! the city, hut not sufficient to encourage mo xo v^rite a- j 

I bout it. ?Iov7ever we were hurrying on to a tov/n that held 
more interest for us and it v;as therefore with no regret | 

I that we left the snoke of Birmingliaia behind us. 

■'•Tiiile v;e were at luncheon in the dining car our train 
passed through Shrewsburj/-, and scarcely believing ray e;^es, 

, I asked i:he waiter if it could be possible tha.t we had 
cone that distance in so short a time. "Oh Aye"!^ he re- 
plied, "This is the Great Western Express, ^e are due in 

I Liverpool at two o'clock, sir, Chester at 1.30." He v^ras 

i 
quite correct, for we load hardly finished our luncheon be- 
fore the guard opened the dooi' and we v;ere landed in the 
historic old tovm of Chester. 

I On a forner trip we liad gone to the Queens Hotel oppo- 
site the station, but that proving ao noisy, we deterinined 

t 
this time to try "The Orovesnor", located on East Sate 



-267- 



Street quits near the Cathedral. It had just ceased rain- I 

mg vi'r.en. we took the cah, and ':he air was inoist and chilly.' 
It was therefore a welcome treat to see a roarinc soft 
coal fire in the \7riting roo/n adjoining the office, and 
thither we drifted with some Arriericans who had just ar- 
rived from Slirewsbury in -heir automobile. 

Although they v/cre "rarraly clad they were chilled to 
the hone. One of the ladies in the partj'- was so complete- 
ly done up that she v/as quite ill. Yet iu v;as only the 
first week in September, the time \fiien England should look 
its best and the weather be bright and bracing. 

And now to those Americans v^rho think the;'- know Englishj 
climate, let me counsel tiiem to trus': it no longer. The 
climatic conditions are gradually changing. Cold and rainy 
summers arc becoming more frequent. -his season it rained 
almoso incessantly in London from the first of May until 
the 25th of July. And in Paris the record was little 
be-cter, therefore if one be not prepared for such a cola 
reception, he must cross to the contineni; and run to the 
south. 

Chester being tiie capital of Cheshire, and the Chief 
Eiarket for the famous Chedder Cheeses, is to this da;;- a 
place of importance and enterprise. Although h town of 
only 40^000 Inhabitants, it Is next to Stratford ana Oxford 
the tovra most .frequented by tourists i Aside from its 



•2G8- 



historic interest it is the town of all oohors in England 
where one can study "best th.e half tifibereci stj^le of archi- 
tecture. 

-hat this earl;^ style of construction is still in 
vogue after 500 yean-s use is the oest proof of its prac- 
ticabilit;,.' and utilitj^. It is th.is adherence to style 
that gives the to'.m its character, and I hope "uhe da;"" may 
he far distp^nt oaf ore steel cage construction \;ill "be per- 
mitted. Historically the ~own "boasts of earlj-' Roiijan origin, | 
and their fighting men have "been noted for tiieir courage 
and braver;-. The last tcvm to ^'■ield "co Villianj the Con- 
queror in 1070 during the Civil V/ar it held out stoutljr 
for two years for Charles 1st, but finally the people 
were stai-ved into sub/nission in 1646, The tower in which 
King Charles I, saw his amy defeated on Rov/ton noor s"Gill 
stands and being a part of the ancient v/all is new pre- 
served as a museum. 

! This wall is of con^iaerable extent, and like that of 
St> lilalo , is nov; converted into a promenade. I v/as told 
that it was two miles in circumference, and can assert 
that it is fully -hat length from ":he time it took me to 
make the circuit. Originally- the River T^ee washed the 
foot of the walls on the southern side, but the silking 
of the stream has left the walls a considerable distance 
from the presen'c edge of the river. 



-269- 



If one lias time it is a pretty excursion up the 

r.".ver by launch, and a veritable floxilD.a aTvai'cs one ao 
Dee Sricge where on a lioliday, the youth of the town 
dcsport theiiselvea. However interesting the wall and tlie 
river nay he, th.e most characteristic feature of the 
tovm is what are called the Eows . These are really a 
kind of sheltered way ouilt above the shops on the street 
and approached by steps at various points. Sonie of the 
best shops in the tovm are located in these Rows which 
are sheltered by the overhanging houses, which align with 
the stores below. The effect is extreoely picturesque and 
I marvel thr t in crowded London they have never built any- 
thing of the kind. Perhaps some day they will awake to 

1 

the utility of the sche:rie. | 

Learning that service would be held in the Cathedral 
at 4:40 o'clock. I went there with the hope of once a- 
gain hearing the great organ. Vnen I arrived the clergy 
ar.d choristers had already ente.riid the chancel and the 
service had commenced. Altho the service was very inter- i 
esting the chanting was ver^.- poor, notwithstanding the 
imposing nuciber of choristers. However, the services were 
short and almost before I was aware of it the choir re- 
turned to the sacristy. Then for the first ticie, the 
organist seejned to awaken from his daj*" dream, and there 
floated through tha-tvast interior, such a mj.ghty volume 



-270- 



of laannonic sounds that I sat spell-bound for nany iaOi_ents. 
Prom EQv vantage point I could see the organist, 'vrorking 
at the Icey-Doard in a sort of xrjusical ecs'cas;'-, whilst at 
his side, a 3'oung assistant, coupled and uncoupled the 
various stops, which being operated electrically brought 
into instant action new coi/ibinations of pipes that made 
the church tremble. I do not know what corubinations were 
employed that afternoon, but thec^ffect was often that of 

I 

an orchestra pla:-ing sweetlj--, and then again that of a 
mighty thunder storm, reverberating from one end of the 
church to the other. 

I would have gladly remained longer, but the Sacristan 
appearing, the organist ceased, and I with a few others, 
was shovm the chancel and the exquisite carved stalls and 
ibishop's throne that have, at great expense, been repaired 
and now are considered the best oak carving of the period. 

I It would require a book to fully describe this beau- 

i 

tiful Cathedral, but I cannot leave it without mentioning 
the Mosaics which occupy the north side of the nave, which 
my brother considers to be the best exeimples of modem 
marble mosaics in the country. This statement in no way 
detracts from the importance of the modern mosaics in St. 
Paul's Cathedral, London, which are of glass mosaic very 
foeautifully relieved with gold. 

Since my last visit, a beautiful marble tomb has been 



-271- 



placecT in the tranoept to the iDecjory of England's grand 
old men, (Gladstone). It is a most beautiful exa^iple of 
jthe sculptor's art and I predict "ill "be treasured as such 
in years to coir.e. 

r-arwarden Castle, his late ho^iie , lies but a short 
distance frcii here end thus he, like Shakespeare, Till 
ever be associated with Chester. 

i 

' Another estate of great interest, Eaton riall, lies 

about four niiles up the P;iver Dee. This estate is the seat 

of the Duke of Westminster, a descendant of Hugh Lupus, 

a nephew of William the Conqueror. Eaton Hall is said to 

I 

be one of the finest modern mansions of the ari3tocrac3'' 

hereabouts, and is adorned with every resource of modern 

art. Although I liac: not the time to visit it I can well 

I 

believe it is a very beautiful estate, i or if I am not 

mistaken the income of the luke of Westminster is so great 

■that it would make that of many of our millionaires seem 

small in comparison. 

I There are so many places of interest in Chester and 

its vicinity that one should allow three days instead of 

one to visit them, ITevertheless our day had been well 

occupied, a.nd v^eary but content I returned to the hotel 

wl:ere, after a good dinner, I retired to my room just as 

the Town Clock was striking nine. Ten ininutos later I 

wa,3 in the lend of dreams, from which no tiling short of an 



-272- 




l^/'ve.rA}ool 



earthquake could have av;akened me. Such is the fatigue 
that coraes upon one after three montha of incessant 



sigiit -seeing. 



LI^^ZRFOOL I 

I 

j 

I Prom Chester to Liverpool is a short run of atout 
thirty Eiinutes, if one goes "by the Tiray of the Mersey Tun- 
nel, hut the 1:y trip by ferry from Birkenhead is more i 
agreeable it one has the time. Ho^.irever, desiring to reach j 
the Central Station near which our Hoxel "The Adelphi" 
was loceted v:e transferred at Birkenhead to the Electric | 
road, that runs under the river. A worse rattle trap of 
an equipment I have rarel;- seen; the doors and Tvindows j 
seemed in the throes of dissolution, and the floor and 
sides of the cars squeaked and groaned as if thej^ could 

' stand the strain no longer. Finally we arrived and v;alk- 
ing across to the hotel found that our trunks had come 
from London a week before us, thus the G. \7, R.R. had 
fulfilled its promise and v/o had completed our agi'eemeno 

' wi th th em , an d both we r e y a t i 3 f i c d « 

I Our steamer being billed to sail on September 10th 
at 4 P»M, , and as we arrived in Livei'pool on the 8th, we 
had therefore just 46 hours in which to prepare for the 
voj^age . As the last days on shore are always busy ones, 



-273- 



I had but little tinie to devote to the to\'m or its attrac- 



tions, therefore T.'hat I v/rite 



on the subject must be brief 



and may be unoatisf actorj'- to thosG who greatly adiiiire the , 
citj-. Although I have visited the city many tiiies, I 
have never founc" it an alluring place. The greatest sea- 
port of Englano, with a coinmerce rivaling that of any 

j European port, has little to attract the historian, archi- 
tect, poet or painter, but to those interested in ships 

j and shipping and a,ll the many ramifications of trade con- 
nected with them, Liverpool must be the El Dorado of th3ir 
dreams . 

In fact it might be compared to a lusty shipwright 
who has grown to be a merchant pri'.ijce, whose house is 
furnished with the lujcuries of the rich, yet whose I 
aesthetic tastes have never progrcsssed be^^ond the limits 
of his urade or social environment. I 

Tith a population of nearly a million inl^abitants , 
with niany large manufacturing towns near by, with the 
Great T^estern and Great l^orthern R. E. terminating in the j 
cit3', one would naturall}"- expect to find it a town resem- 
bling London in some siriall degree. But drive a mile out j 
London Road from the heart of the city, and you would j 
think you were in a country town of the thousand inhabi- 
tants. However, if you pass down to the water front and 
look up and down the river at the miles of docks and 



-274- 



thousands of tons of shipping, you will get a different 
ijmpression. 

The truth is, Liverpool is a Yery great port, -.vhe re 
cargoes, like the sujruner flock of American tourists, coiae 
and go, but never remain. 

Located on the Mersej'" an estuar^^ chout a mile in 
width, running into the Irish Sea, it is an excellent 
haroor for the greatest ships. The tidal conditions, 
hov;ever, jLake it necessary to dock all but the very larg- 
est ships, 1-,'hich are anchored in mid-streain and loaded 
or lAiiloaded b;^ lighters. 

It was thought that Then the Manchester Ship Canal 
was cut through from the Mersey, that Liverpool would suf- 
fer grea~ly froir: the loss of trade. Yet Liverpool has 
survived end thrived notwithstanding the enterprise of 
Ivlanchester, the greatest market of cotton goods in the 
world, v;hose cargoes now sail gaily down the Mersey with- 
out paj-ing tribute. This is a great compliment to the 
enterprise of Liverpool whose citizens deal in cargoes, 
the destination of which ma3/ be the antipodes. I re- 
member once having a glance at a ship from the Orient, 
ty going on board a P. i: 0., Steamer which had just come 
from India. It was Sunday afternoon and the Laskar fire- 
men were seated on the deck in their turbans listening to 
a dusky lad playing a flageolette whilst another one of 

-275- 



their troup beat a tota-tom in a weird rliytliHiic cadence. I 
Vsas greatly- surprised at the nvjjjher ejiployed on Lhe coat, 
and seeing an officer inquired hov: he xuana,ged to get along 
with such a lot of heathens. "Oh", he said, "they are 
"better workers in hot climates than Englishiiian. " And I 
have no douct he spoke the truth. 

If one were to wander among the miles of docks which I 
skirt the waterfront of Liverpool, he could see ships which 
have come frori ever^- corner of the glohe. The cosmopolttan 
crews which these vessels bring, are with their cargoes, 
emptied into the town, anc' the "Fucs" consequently do a 
thriving business. This and the close proximity of many 
manufacturing towns explain r/h;- Liverpool has such a large 
population of the so-called other half.. If I reiiiemcer 
correctly, rirkenhead has 100,000 inhabitants, and to'Tns j 
like "Port-'Sunllght" , the home of Sunlight Soap, liave 
6000 or more interested in manufacturing. 

i^ear Eirkenhead, facing the sea, directlj^ opposite 
Liverpool, is a sort of Coney Islanc' called Black Pool. 
This resort is much frequented by the holiday excursion- 
ists of llanchester and other towns, who by pre-arrangement , 
go there for a "wake" of two weeks during the season. I 
yyish I could describe one of thece "wakes" or excur- 
sions, and the manner in which they are managed, but that 
is something that I must reserve for another story. 



-276- 









Suffice it, it is on these excursions that one can stucij- 




English character to his heart's content. 






The proximity of Liverpool to ¥ales, and also to 




Ireland-, ineuces iLan3'- of these countrj'men to come to the 




city vrhere often to their own detriment, the^- re^nain to 




live anc' die airiid its saoke and traffic. Tl'.sir influence 




is very noticeatle upon the town and helps to explain the 

1 




jthriving "business of the "Pubs". 

1 






Eesiring to catch a glimpse of these countrymen in 






their haunts, I strolled one afternoon through the fish 




'market where were displayed all the edible fish of the 






English waters. The great variety and beaut;' of the 




ifinny trite ahsorted my attention so much that I had al- 




most forgotten my purpose in going there, when a monstrous 




'fish wife, with a voice like a rasp and a face with n.fwany 




a "blossom upon it, carrje up and spoke to me in Welsh. Por 




1 

Ithe life of me I could not understand 7;hat she said; when 






another one, a neigh"bor of hers much of the same build, 






came over and aeked me, in an Irish "brogue that was al- 






most equally unintelligible, to buji- her fish. I explained 






that I was a naturalist, not a hotel stev^ard, and told them 






I was sailing that day for ITev: York. At once their solic- 






itations ceased and they bombarded me with questions 




ahout Amerikee until, in self-defense, I was o"bliged to 






flee. Oh;, the magic of that word Americac' ??ho can 











•277- 



understand Vr^at charms it holdo for those 7:hose errviromiient 
is £0 heirless and depressing. 

Before sailing I detemiined to have a peep at Tne 
Walker Art Gallery, located on the square opposite the 
Lrine Street Station. Unfortunately the collsotion vsas 
"being re-hung and such pictures as I saw teerc already 
well known to me. However there is there the neucleus of 
a good exhibition and in time to come they may obtain "by 
bequest or purchase enough other works to uiakc it a really 
strong collection. | 

Tirectly opposite the Art Museum, in the centre of 
the gretit square, lies St. Georges Hall, the finest build- 
ing in the city, said to have cost a million and a half 
dollars. The large expanse of space around this fine 
structure, gives it such a dignified setting that one is 
naturally attracted to it. In form it is that of a Greco- 
Rosian Temple of colossal proportions, being 600 feet long 
"by 170 feet wide, with two wings each of which form a i 
facade with a colonnade of sixteen colujnns each bearing a 

tympanums above, containing emblematic sculptures of coji- 

i 
merce, art etc. Curiously enoiAgh, the north end of the i 

building is semi-circular, giving it the effect of chan- 
cel to a cathedral. ' 

The exterior of this building i.s certainly very re- 
markable, and architecturally, will rank v/ith any "building 



-£73- 



n 

of the period in England. Nevertheless, it is the interior 

! that appeals most to "-:he average observer. Designed for 
various purposes, the wings are given to the Courts of 
Assize, Khilst the Great Kail, 170 feet long, 90 feet wide, 
'and 80 feet high, occupies the aain nave or Basilica, if i 
I ma.y term it such. This Great Hall is used fOT public 
liaeetings and concerts and is handsomelj'- decorated -^^ith 
carved marble statues of local celebrities and others, and 
has a re^ticrkable arched ceiling of stone. At the end of 
the hall, opposite the entrance is the great organ, claimed 
to be the largest in the '.vorld. In a seiLi-circle about 
the console of the organist, are the seats for singers, 
while the platform in front of these accommodates a large 
orchestra. I regret to say that with all our lavish ex- 
penditure for nusic and concert halls, we have nothing in 
this country approaching this magnificent building archi- 
tecturally- or in practicability^. 

Opposite the facade of St. George's Hall are equestrian 
statues of the late Queen Victoria and Prince Consort, and 
to the north rises the ¥ellington Monujient, 115 feet high. 
There are other monximents end fountains, and the square 
on all sides is surrounded by inan^r buildings of consider- 
e,ble architectural importance. 

j Prom the square one may v;alk down Dale or Victoria 
Streets, passing man3^ fine shops on the vfs.y, and reach the 



-279- 



Pier head where is located the ne'.T "Dock Board Offices", 
a tuilding in Ksnaissance architecture '.7hich \7ill conpare 
favoral-1;;' -with rrjr.r." of our cest. Western capital buildings. 
Tear ty are the nevr and siii^ptuous offices of "The Lloyds", 
a ii.assive "building taller and larger than "The Dock 
Board Offices" and ccTering q-iite a nq;\are block. These 
are still uncoii/rleted and are of L'art ITouveau archi- 
tectujre. The coinparative proxiinit3^ of these tv;o great 
"buildings gi^es one an opportunit;" to compare these styles 
of architecture. And I think I voice the opinion of the 
vast uiEjority ■:rhen I sa^?- that L'art Nouveau building is 
infinitely less dignified and beautiful than its neighbor. 

At the Pier head is located the Great Landing stage - 
sonietiaes celled The Princess Pier because it adjoins the 
Princess Tccks nearb;-. This is a series of floating pon- 
toons of colossal proportions, perhaps a half aile in 
length, on '"hich are located all lianner of shipping offices, 
rraiting roorus and the like. This sj'^steja of landing stage 
is made necessary by the great rise and fall of the tide 
in the Mersey. Connected to th? Pier head b;/ :iizny iron 
bridges, the stage at high tide is level -7ith the stone 
Pier, but at lo" '--ater it is 20 or CiOre feet belov; the 
level of the Pier, and it is then difficult to mount or 
:nd . 

I re;Tje:Lber '.veil the last time I took ship here. It 



-280- 



' T7as at that time low tide, and I had given my taggage to a 

i:orter -.vho putting it on a little two-wheeled truck 
i 
started do'i'm the decline. In his anxiety to appear ener- 
getic he hustled the truck to the bridge and started down 

j at a saart pace. Alas.' he had under-estimated the pitch 

I 

I of the bridge which was quite an angle of 45 degrees. In 

1 
a jiff3r he and the truck struck the floor of the stage 

with such force that he was thrown completely over the hag- 
gage and landed ten feet away. A crowd instantly gathered 
around him, and finding him unhurt chaffed him for his 
clumsiness. Then follOT;ed a flow of Billingsgate, that 
cannot be heard short of Merry Old England. Such is the 
comedy Y;ith which one's travels are often relieved. 



-281- 



The afternocn of our la,st Ciaj ashors h.ad arrived. The 
passengers Tere "busy getting their luggage together, and 
our hotel was in an uproar. As m^* oompaniuns and myself 
T7ere awaiting a cab an olcl friend '>7ith ^hom I had crossed 
severr.l tiir.es "before, caane up to greet me. "Kello Dick," 
said I, "Tuiere avrajr?*' "?Iomeward "bound", he cried as he 
slung his satchel into a cab^ "liThat ship?" I inquired. 
"The Arabec" he replied. "Good," I sallied, "V/e shall aiQQ% 
again in Queenstov/n. " He laughed incredulously at this 
and a Hioiiient later was bowling along to the Princess Pier. 

Tow it v;as surely a curious coincident, that neither 
of us had knovm the other vras abroad, yet after an absence 
of three months v/e h^d met in Liverpool on the day of our 
ship's departure. 

To one who covers the beaten tracks abroad ouch unex- 
pected meetings are not infrequent, >2.nd that is "fhj one 
need net fear being lonesome while traveling alone in 
Euroite. I have had so JLany experiences in which I have 
met friends on my journey that I nov; regard it as a part 
cf the trip. 

Arriving at the Princess Pier, our steaaer "The 



-282- 



liauretania" lay alongside the floe.ting stage, a Uir.jestic 
picture for a painter. All atout was noise and confusion, 
and I marvel now that all is over that the passengers and 
baggage that xrere put aboard that dB.y in so short a tinie. 
Cn the stroke of 4, three pov;erful tugs caiXie along- 

' side and as soon as the cahles attaching the Leviathan to 

I 

i the pier had teen cast off, to^ved our craft out to mid- 
st reajti, Vv'-herewith the eobing tide she slipped gently do^m 
! the streri'j. A few moments later the;- ooo cast off their 
I cables and then under our own steam vie proceeded down the 
i river past Blackpool, then into the channel and at last 

I 

I were out into the Irish Sea, homeT/ard bound. 

I 

I Ireland, being separated from Scotland by the ITor'ch 

Channel, and from England by the Irish Sea and St.(Jeorge's 

Channel, our course therefore after leaving the Uersey 

lay due r/est. A short run brought us to the Light of 

Hollj-head lying off the peninsular or isle of Anglesea, 

Prom this point our course lay from south to south west 

down the St. George's Channel around to Queens town which 

lies on the southern coast of Ireland. 

Once out to sea, the nervous straiii under which we 

had been laboring for the past few hours, gave Y/ay to a 

foiling: of repose and I retired to my cabin and fell into , 

■ i 
a heavy slujiiber from which I did not awake until late in I 

' the afternoon. TTnen I went on deck an hour later a heavy 



-283- 



ir:i3t had se'tled dcvm and vritli it cane "he rain. Hovrever, 
it c'.iCv not last long and as we rounded liollyhead and lay 
our cou^s3 to the southard, I kne*:? that we wore homeward 
"bound at last and that was quite enough to keep us all in 

a clieerful hvinor. j 

There ia a grandeur in the open sea that lias a wonder- 
ful fascination ior me and I confess this was in no way | 
lessened by the size and power of our ateazuBr, I have too 

i 

often witnessed, the power of old. Boreas and encountered ] 

i 
in my voyages frightful gales that have toyed with our ship 

in such a fashion as to threaten our destruction; yet with- 
al, we hi-.ve sailed safely into port. It is a curious fact i 
tl'iat all these gales were laet with in mid- ocean during the 
latter part of September, the month usuall;/ reputed .the 
best for favorable passages, and I now wondered whether we 
should encounter a gale on our way home. Surely the indie 
aticns were not unfavorable, but one cannot read the 
weather in northern latitudes as one does in tliose further 
south. I therefore v-ent on deck after supper, and was de- 
lighted to see that the haze had disappeared and through 
the filmy gauze which drifted landward the stars peeped 
through, an almost sure omen that the morrow would be 
fair. 

Tor a long while I sat on dock watching the starry 
firmainent which from time to time was unfolded before me, 



-234- 



when the sharp crack of r.he w.ireless told me that the 
operator was speaking with a passing steaaer. I looked 
atout and finally? hull dovm I saw a /nass of hlack against 
the horison, and then the lights of a large steaaier 'bound 
for Liyerpool. 'Wliether or no she was a sister ship of the 
line I could not tell, "but the fact that vie were able to 
converse with her, while progressing at full speed, im- 
pressed, me as the greatest scientific discovery and wonder 
of our age . Although the range of coinxnunication is ccxn- 
paratively liinited, being dependent upon the conditions 
of the weather, nevertheless, as one travels on the Atlan- 
tic routes it frequently happens tha.~ a ship is continual- 
ly in coaimunication with some other steamer, and thus by 
mutual consent the message is passed along from steamer to 
steamer to I^Tew York or London. However, these aerograms 
sometimes miscarrj. I recall an instance of this kind in 
v/hich a steamer bound for Jamaica in the ¥est Indies, 
sent an aerogram t.o.LCape Hatteras. The message never 
reached the station at Ea^teras, but was picked up by the 
station in Cincinnati, Ohio, and re-forwarded to Hew York 
iTow the apparatus employed in this feat was not a very 
powerful one, yet by some freak of atmospheric condition 
it vjus carried 1500 miles or more from its point of de- 
parture - a trulir wonderful flight almost bej'-ond the com- 
prehension of the mind. 



-285- 



It was Tfith such rccolleot.ions as this that I -^vhilid 
4'.":ay Ttiy tice vil.cn the port T/atch coming on deck to -;ach 

I 

down, I '.Tent telov; and sought aiy dov;ny bed. 

It was earl 3'- the next niorning when I a\7oke and went 
on deck. Before rne 1^3'- the cliffs and grassj"- hills of the 
outer harbor of Q,ueenstown. where during the night we had 
anchored a half aile or so from the forta that guard the 
Karrow entrance to the inner harbor. As I looked through 
the narroT\;'3 a thin veil of haze enveloped a large liner at 
anchor; it was the Aracec, which had preceded us from 
Liverpool and v/as at that moment busily engaged taking a- 
board passengers and their baggage. Eesrond her lay the 
town of Q,ueenstown, so well knovm to Erin's iiTiniigrants . 
It is not a very attractive place as I can assert from a 
hurried visit ashore on one of rriy former voj'ages, cut not 
far from it lies the cit;- of Cork in which the business of 
the port is principally transacted and from which point 
one ma 3^ proceed to the Lakes of Killarnej'-j Tublin or 
Belfast. 

The coast of the southern part of Ireland is verj' 
rocky and precipitous. Tjeverthcless the fields are culti- 
ated to the very edge of the cliffs and it is this beauti- 
ful e:>cpan3e of green that one seas on approaching the 
island from the open sea that gives it the i:3mc of The 
vmerald islo_? 



■286- 



I 



As I liung ctcut the rail watching the bum iDoats along ; 

side and heard the crow chaffing the icijuigrantc that had | 

I 
come ahoard an Irish woman near me threw a rope over to i 

the men in the coat belov^; to which they attached a large ' 
hamper "basket full of their wares. The basket Uiust have 
"been a heaYy one, for it took all her force to pull it 
'up, but she succeeded verj^- v^ell and soon had hsr stock of 
'goods spread on the deck for displa3?'. Then in an Irish 
brogue that was clmost unintelligible she solicited the 
passengers to buy. It is quite impossible to describe 
the scene that followed, but amid the chaffing and banter, 
I made my escape. 

After making a small purchase from a less garrulous 
old woman, I walked to the stern to watch the gulls feed- 
ing in the ebb that carried the debris of the ship to sea. 
How many there were in the flock, I cannot sajr, but the 
air seemed white with them, and as I watched them cr;ring 
and fighting for the choice morsels that were thrown to 
them, I thought how much their struggles for sustenance 
resembled our ov/n- But as I watched more closely and saw , 
the strongest gorge themselves and then fly away; I thought 
again how ridiculous the comparison, for so-called civi- 
lized man is not content alone to gorge himself, he must 
eat his fill anc' then store untold quantities away until 
sitting uron the m-ound he ha^s acciimulated he may survey 



-287- 



with equanifliity the approach of old age and death. The ' 
gull lias no thought of the morrov;, nor has it any fear of 
old age or death, it is content to live for the day and 
is happy trusting in the good Father who gave it being. 

^iile I was thus engaged in contemplation, one of the 
passengers "beside xne pointed to the Arabec which had raised 
her anchor snd was putting out to sea. I ascended to the I 
hiirricsne deck in order to get a better view and had the 
satisfaction of saluting my friend Dick as his ship passed 
within a pistol shot of us. So near was she that we could 
pis inly distinguish the passengers and hear the cheering 
as she sailed by. Thus liad m;/ promise to my friend been 
fulfilled. 

It took quite an hour to eaibark the passengers and 
get the mails aboard oi-ir ship, when that had oeen accom- 
plished, we broke out our anchor and glided slowly out of 
the harbor toward Daunt Rock, at that moment the sun came 
out and shone upon the beautiful verdant fields that fringe 
the coast, changing them from a sombre green to a brill- 
iant emerald. A lucky omen this, I thought, for as we 

sail away fair Erin greets us with a smile to make our 

I I 

jtrip a happj"- holiciay. And that in truth is proved to be 

i 
.as 3''ou shall learn. i 

ly the time we passed Daunt P.ock, our ship was under 

full speed, running gaily down the coast, in pursuit of 



-268- 



Ciie Aral^ec 'Ji.icli had preceded, us an hour or -.more"-' she" was 
aluicst hull dcvm v/hen we started, but hy the time we 
reached Old Kins ale ?Iead, a no Tele headland jutting out in- 
to the Atlantic, she was plainly in vieu and a short time 
thereafter we passed her as though she v/ere anchored. At 
the time we passed the Arabec, she was probably making 
seventeen knots an hour, a good speed nowadays ;yet our ship 
was cowling along in the smooth sea at the rate of 26 knots 
ITow a knot, being a nautical mile, v/hich is approximately 
an eighth more than a statute mile, "The Istiauretania" was 
Slaking the extraordinar^r speed of 29 to 30 statute miles 
per hour. If that speed could be nsintained for the en- 
tire passage then we surely were destined to make a record 
ru:n. 

iTot long after passing Old Kinsale Head, we sighted 
Pastinet Light, perched upon a pinnacle of rock so many 
miles from the mainland that I have often wondered by what 
freak of nature this solitar3f spire could have remained 
when all between it and the mainland, had sunk beneath 
the sea. Pastinet is the last light one sights on the 
passage westward, and the first on arriving from the east- 
ward- As I saw the lighthouse slov;l3- sink beneath the 
aorizon, a feeling of regret and pleasure came upon me. 
7:eGret at leaving a land that held so ma.ny pleasant mem- 
ories for me, and pleasure in the expectation of being at 



-289- 



last lioiiie";ard oouncL, to meet tlie loved oneo IzoJie . TT.-.ile 
Tl:.cse reflections vrere passing throuij-h -Ji'-r mind, I tliougnt 
I -"ould £0 forward and see the l?.r.ce numcer of i.cnfliigrants 
that had come aboard, manj- of whom were douttless leaving 
tl'.eir netive land with litrle hope of returning for ^-ears 
to come. ■ -0 ix>v surpriss, instead of tears and siglis, a 
husky Irish lad sat on the hatchway busily playing an 
accordeon, T;hile a group of young people v/sre attomp-ing 
to dance to his rather erratic music, xhat they succeeded 
at all, vvas due to the fact that the onlookers beat time 
with Their hands and feet and b;- ^his means maintained a 
rhj-thjn that gave a weird assent to the music. All seemed 
to be enjoying themselves and as I left them I wondered 
how many there could have been aboard. Passing into the 
salon, I ventuj-'ed to ask a stoward how many passengers we 
had aboard. "Oh. we're full up, 3ir"m he replied. "Tliank 
you" I said, "but ho'.v many vrould that be." He did not 
seem to know, but by accident, I happened to pick up a 
cop;^ of "The Scientific American", lying on the table in 
the reS-ding room and found it contained a complete de- 
scription of the boat and her accomiaodations . 

As the "I'iauretania" and her sister ship the "Lusitania" 
mark the very latest development of the ocean greyhound, 
a bricof synopsis of these vessels '.vill be interesting. At 
the time they were built, I remember reading that the 



-290- 



British Governrient had. voted an appropriation of 
$13,000,000. dollars on the condition that they should 
"be built according to plans mutually agreeable to the Com- 
panj"" and to the GoverniLent, and that in case of ^'var, the 
government reserved the right to enlist them in the ser- 
vice of the navy. Eut it did not occur to me at the time 
that the German Liners, by their superior speed had for 
ten years held the honor of transporting the English mails, 
and that an important reason therefore in the construction 
of these two greyhounds, was to regain this government con- 
tract. This they have done and up to the present there are 
no steamers afloat that are capable of wresting the laurel 
from them. 

■When a boy, I remember being shown the Great Eastern 
at anchor in the Hudson Rivier, where to me she appeared 
the most colossal and ungainly thing in the ^j'rorld. Her 
siae was 680 feet on the load water line, 83 feet beam and 
57 feet, deep, and at 25 feet draft registered 27,000 tons 
displacement. Compare this with our steamer The Mauretania 
which is 760 feet long, 68 feet beam and 60 feet deep, and 
on a 33 feet draft displaces 38,000 tons. If you can men- 
jtally grasp these figures, I think you will understand 
hat a colossal craft human engineering skill has pro- 
duced. But it is not alone in the construcoion of the 
p.ull that the engineers have made such an advance in the 



•291- 



m. 



j past fort- or fifty years c It is in the poorer that pro- 
pels these vessels throug-i the water that their skill has 
produced such fljigl'-t3' powers that the mind, of can cannot 
cciriprehend them. Let me illustrate this oy a comparison 
of the "Great Eastern" and "The Mauretania". The former 
.T,ras propelled Cj a pair of paddle wheels and a single 
screv; nctuated "by engines, the comhincd power of ?/hiGh 
oiil3^ aggregafed 7,650 horse pov/er, whilst the LJaurotania 
is propelled cy four screv/s actuated "by four steozi tur- 
l)ines, the power of v/hich is estimated to cs S8,000 horse 
power, or nine times that of the Great Eastern. "--o".7 is itl 
possihle to comprehend such a force as thit r Surely the i 
aYera~e man is incapacle of doing so, and even the engineer 
can only vacuely understand it cy the most intima,te knowl- 
edge of his science. ?or my part such pov;ers are like 
the millions one sees mentioned daily in oi".r journals, but 
vhich no man could live long enough to couiit. However 
there is another factor that enters into the sxtraordinaryj 
speeds of the ocean grey hounds, other than sise and horse 
power, and this is the model of the hull. In this the 
Meuretania and Lusitania represent the highest perfection 
yet attained. Unlike ordinary liners, they pass through 

j the water v/ith the least possible resistance. This is at' 
tained. by very graceful lines, almost identical to those 

i of a 3'acht. From stem to stem as one stands on the main 



-292- 



deck, it is possible to see a graceful cur¥e, which is 
ever the delight of a yacht snian. 
i It wou-ld be interesting to give a description of the 
; interior arrangements of the ship, which resemble fnore 
! those of an hotel than a steam ship, but that would be a 
I long story. Suffice it, the great height of the ceilings 
gives the salons in the first class, every appearance of 
a modern hotel ashore, and were it not for the vibration 
of the engines, one could well believe they were in "The 
Waldorf" or "Tlae Carlton." 

One of the real luxuries on these steamers is the 
large open fireplaces in the Ladies Salon and in the 
j SiTioking Eooxn, which are made very cheery and homelike by 
the glow and warmth of these fires. Surely this is a 
trifle that the other liners would do well to imitate. 

The size of the ship and the great number of first 
class passengers 550 or more, make these vessels much less 
sociable than the smaller and slower ones. However, this 
is compensated for by the sumptuous accommodations and the 
large and well selected library which to one of literary 
tastes is a veritable Godsend. Then again there are the 
evening concerts in the salon which are always well at- 
tended anci make one feel so completely satisfied with the 
trip that the loss of sociability is after all not so 
serioi;is . 



-293- 



On Sv.n:-ar, our second day ov.z, the service of the 

Church of En£landj was held in the Ladies Salon. As this 

cusioiri coes nc~ ohtain in the lines of other nationalities , 

I 

rnj- companions anc! dvself decided to attend. At sea a ser- 

Ivice is al'.va"s nore impressive than upon land for the 
reason xhat one is out upon the mighty deep v.-hose vast ex- 
panse reaches froiri horiacn to horizon and. -^rhere the heavens 

form a mish-y dome in comparison with which the greatest 

I 

'architecture of inan is cut puny mockery. F-jirthermore there 
is alT7ays a certain danger on the deep, from storm and 
iceberg, from fire and collision that threaten one night 
and day, anc' render even the most "choughtless meditative 
once out of sight of land. It is this communion with 
Tiatujre, G-od if you will, that makes the sailor different 
from the landsman, "corn and "bred within a city. 

In olden times it was the custom to call all the 
passengers and crew to this divine service, which was al- 
ways read "by the Captain. Today, the service is more for- 
mal and is confined to first and second class passengers 
only, There is consequently lacking that spirit of democra- 
cy which was the chanji of former days. I 
I A lev; mcmeiisssl liofore the hour of eleven, the tolling 
of the ship's hell announced the service and when we entered 
the siilon it was already'- crowded to its full capacit;''. I 
ortunately found a seat beside a dear old lady and awaited 



294- 



j 

' ^he entrance of the choir. The choristers were hell hoys 

a::d pa£,e3 of "lie ship, twenty or ruoro in number, who, un- 

i der the direction of the steward, marched in t7;o hy two 

i 

1 and took their seats near the piano, where the musicians 
! were clready assemhled. In front of the piano a lecturn 
' had "been pla.ced over which the English flag was draped and 
I before it stood the Purser in full uniform, awaiting the 
conclusion of the incidental music which preceded the 
service. Then in a voice that could be heard from one end 
of the room to the other, he read the beautiful service of 
the Church of England, receiving the responses of the con- 
gregE-tion. If anyone there expected that the service 
would be one whit less sp.rious than those within a church 
that day, they were soon disillusioned, for no one could 
have asked for a more dignified and responsive audience. 
A touch of pathos was added to the music, when the choir 
Dojs wear^ang of chanting the long Te Deum failed to re- 
spond to the steward's encouragement, and for a moment let 
him lead alone. The passengers, however, saved the da3'-, 
and ere long were chanting lustily, while the orchestra 
concluded with the "Glory be to the Pather" etc.- in 
grandiose style that would h^ave done justice :;o xhe best 
church in England. After the collection and the singing 
of the grand old hymn "Praise God from whom all blessings 
flow", the audience still remained while the orchestra 



•295- 



played in the Uiosl: finishecl ..iCnner Kanal^s Largo. So i:er- 
fect end teD.uti fully was this composition rsnclered. that 
even ■when the orchestra hcd ceased and the Purser and the j 
choir bo3'-s had withdrawn, they still rec^ained as if hyp- 
notized t-j the ir.elody. I was finally awakened from :iiy ! 
rsA'erie ty the dear old lady next to me, asking .ne the nama 
of the coi:.posi tion, and upon learning that it vras I-iandl's 
f aureus "Largo" went into ecstasy at its beautj-. "Yes," I 
replied, "It is ver;" beautiful, such music oouches the 
heart, and is "better far than a sernion." I ajii not at all 
sure thc:t she agreed v/ith me, but I think I voice the 
opinion of the aost intelligent people when I state that 
while vords niay stimulate thought and induce euiotion, yet 
the haraoniss of good music reach the heart direct and 
lead one unconsciousl;/ into the realm of beauty. Once 
within th3t real:;j, all cares dispell, all sorrov/s flee and 
for the r.once we live in that dreataland of ecstasy, that 
land of Spirit from -iirl^ich only sympathy, coapassion and 
gentleness can flow. Such is the xLagic of the inusician, 
to whoni we owe so much and to whom, alas.' we pay so 
little. 

On the evening of the third day outj our trip was en- 
livened by a Suffragette Meeting held in the dining hall. 
rever having attended one of th?se meetings, I deter^xiined 
tc CO so in order to learn their i:oint of view. On the 



-295- 



whole their speeches y/ere very mild and. therijr plaints 
ihany ano j'Jist; out I still fail to see mIiv it is necessary 
:|'or u-Oiaen to vote in order to change the present unjust 
lav;s relating to laarriage, divorce, etc, A unification of ] 
the laws of all our states on ther.e questions must eventual- 
ly coj:fie in the interest of good governinent. If therefore, | 
the vror.ten will force the fight on this issue they will 
accomplish a iiiuch-needed reform and this, I believe, can 
"be done hest through tlieir personal, rather than their 
political relations- 

I Our run- after leaving Liverpool had heen extraordin- 

I 

dry. and at noon, on the 14th, v/e had covered 2267 nauti- 
cal yjiles. Thus far the passage had been extveiiiely smooth, 
and soificred by overcast skies. But as we e^aerged frojn 
Ijhe haze that hung about the Eanks of Few Poundland, and 
once iiiore entered the Gulf Streanj, the tei-nperature rose 
perceptibly and at night the starry heavens shone forth in 
all their glorj'. Who can describe the beauty of these 
starry skies? Alas.' not I, nor are there v/ords within the 
lexicon to picture to the mind of one who has not seen them, 
their grandeur and subliiriitj^. In order to see them well 
at sea, one aust ascend to the hurricane deck far above the 
lights and throbbing of the engines, and recline in a 
Eitea-mer chair undisturbed. At first the starry firmament 
is oiily seen indistinctly, but as the e;.'es gradually become 

-297- 



accustoEjed to xhe fllnrj lig;ht. , one ty one f:ae stars peep 
out and ere one h.as oegun to note the constsllations , an 
inexpresai'cle av/e takes possession of you and in that rooai- 
ent tl'.ere is trought into the frail human consciousness, a 

I conviction that v:e stand cefore the throne of jod. 

j To one of a poetic teujperament , this communion -jith 

nature on the open sea is one oi the luost delightful parts 
of an ocean trip. I never cease to adiiiire the ocean, even 
in its wildest moods, provided I aiii upon a ship in vrhich I 
have perfect conlidence? Eut , "ou mo.y justljr ask, have I 
ever seen a hurricane and tested 117 confidencs? Yes, that 
I have and under conditions I little anticipated '^^en set- 
ting sail. 

It was iiiany years ago, yet the lueuior;- of it is still 
fresh in my itind . I was az that time upon a oj^aller ship 
of the sarie cornpany, hound for Few Yorko Our trip had 
been uneventful until the second day out when the baro- 
me^jer began to fall steadjly until it had reached 28 5/lO 
inches. At that time the wind was blowing at the rate of 
seventy miles an hour^ and we encountered the heaviest 
seas I have ever •.7itnessed in the North Atlantic. One of 
these monsters caae aboard v;ith such force xhat the briage 
staunchions were bent and the dining room flooded with 
water. I'o one 'vas r-llowed on deck, and our speed was re- 
ducedt to just sufficient to keep our ship head to the sea. 



•-296- 



On the second day the storm seexued to have abated somewhat 
r.nc I cra-.vled zq the lea companionway to get a view. To 
my surprise I sav7 a steamer (a sister ship) bound oast- 
ward, running before the gale not shipping a drop of warer 
whilst the deck of our ship was being washed from steirj to 
stern. Surely here was a co/nparison for me; the gale 
whicli was figliting us was wafting our sister ship hoiDe?;ard 
at a. record-breaking rate., 

On the 15th of September^ just before noon, we learned 
by vi'ireless, that ^ve had passed the I^antucket Shoal Light- I 
ship. Iiamediateljr preparations were rriade to disembark our 
passengers and their baggage = Stev/ards and deck hands all 
were busy nowc The life boats were swung in, the mails 
and baggage piled on deck and for the first time since 
sailing I began to appreciate the great nu-:aber of people 
aboard. The officers and crew numbered 800. The first 
class 540, second class, 460, and third class 1200, - a 
total of 300C souls. Surely a precious cargo. And all 
contained within one ship - which was racing to brea,k the 
record. 

About four thirty o'clock we sighted Fire Island 
Light, s.nd. at five reached The Ambrose Lightship off Sandy- 
Hock, having covered the distance from Daunt Rock, Ireland,] 
in four days, 10 houjrs and 41 minutes. Great was the cheerr- 
ing and congratulations upon the achievement of this feat, j 



•299- 



for in order to acccisplish it our ship liacL, had to iiiain- 
tain £.n average spoecT of 26-6/10 knots per hour, or approx 
imately 50 statute miles per hour for a period of over 4 
days. Ifover "before had such continuous high speed been 
attained cy any vessel afloat. ^e had therefore broken 
the v:orld's record. Surely soriiething to be proud of. 

It took nany Biinutes to bring cur stea^ner to a full 
stop, in order to take aboard the pilot. Tlien this had 
been accomplished, -Tre proceeded slo^rly up the channel 
toward Quars-nrine and anchored there, awaiting the arrival 
of the Health officers anc. the discharging of the :iiails. 

year -by at anchor lay an Italian ship close under 
the guns of the fort, with a yellow flag fl^^-ing from the 
main niast. She had been detaJned for :ijan3'" days; soine 
malignant disease having broken ou'; ai'nong her passengers, 
all of "vh.oii: vTOUld be transported to Hospital Island zo 
await developments. 

As the hour of seven arrived, dinner was announced 
and we went below to enjo;- oujr last meal aboard, ^len v/e 
came on deck again we were still at anchor and the boats 
that Were coming and going to the Station Pier indicated 
that we, too, were having some difficulty in getting a 
clean bill of health. Later it developed that a child 
had died aboard and been buried at sea, consequently, we 
were being given a most thorough examination, there was 



500- 



therefore nothing to do cut wait events. 

This delay, hoivevor, gave everyone an opportunity to 
see the "beautiful sunset and enjoy the ever moving pano- 
ra.ffia, which passes continually in and out. the narrows. 
Por the first tine that day a spirit of quietude and re- 
pose seeded to come upon everylaody ahoard, excep* the 
stewards who v/ere occupied with their daily duties. Many 
passengers were about on the deck watching the receding sun 
which left the western clouc's tinged with fiery red and [ 
pujrple and cast a most theatrical light upon the placid 
^vaters of the inner hay that made them reseiiihle molten \ 
JLava. This ma.gic display df liglit and shadow continued 
for more than a half hour and I was wondering if we should 
land that night, when a passenger "beside me ca,lled my | 
attention to the fact that we were moving. I could scarce- 
ly "believe him for the engines were not working and there 
was nothing to indicate that the ship v;as under way. ITever- 
theless, it was a fact our anchor had "been raised and we 
were slowly drifting up the baj'- with the incoming tide. 
fills wa.s encouraging, for I felt sure that this '-vould not 
have been done if the Quarantine Officers had expected to 
detain us. Slovjlj?-, very slowly, we passed Staten Island, 
then Eobbins Beef Light and finally were opposite the 
Statue of Liberty. Ey the time we had reached this point 
■;he fantastic color effects of the sunset had disappeared, 



-301- 



and in their place an after glo'.v of radiating rays of 
light, scxi^ev.hat reserr.hling an Aurora borealis, shot up 
frcn.' *he horizon in a fan shaped display that foroied a 
I most majestic "background to the Statue of Liberty and its 
liglit which, like a diamond, sent forth its scintillating ' 
rays into space. ITever before have I seen such a beauti- 
ful exhibition of nature's glory and the art of jiian. Yet I 

, there -.vere other A7oncers still ahead of us for as tjs , 

i _ I 

drifted on, the iirooklni Eridge burst into ligiit, and as 

if by iriagic, the City with its myriad of lofty buildings, 

flashed, their -vvelccjUie rays over the bay. 

I To those, who looked upon our city that night for the 

first tide, surely that wonderful panorama iuust have been 

entrancing. "What wonder than that emigrants from foreign , 

I 
lands should believe thej-- have at last found the El Dorado 

of their dreams, l?71iy disillusion them, surely an El Korado 

it has been to riar.v in the past, and no doubt will continue 
I 
to be to iLany more in the future. But alas J to the vast | 

majority it holds only disappointment until tiri]:g of the 

I hujTj aiid bustle of its streets they are content to emicrate , 

I 

to ot:ier localities. I 

I 
! I need not recount the disexiibarking of the passengers 

or the passing of the customs. Suffice it, at ten thirty, 

I we v/ere landed anc warmly greeted by dear friends, who, 



-302- 



with, a loyalty unprecedented, had "been awaiting us since 
six o'clock in the evening. After a mad scraiiible to find 
our baggage, we had it passed and hiring a man to put it 
on tocrd a cab, were home at last. 



I 



-30o- 



After an absence of ho many j'ears from Europe, it 

ir.:-.gh.t seem that a coxcpari^ion of modern Europe v;.ith that of 

t7/enty or thirty years ago, might be interesting, and that 

.before concluding I should jnclude these inprBasi'.ons in my 

narrative. Unfortunately to do this v/ould require a 

volume in itself, and the best, therefore, that I can do 

is to touch the most important impresfjiono and leave the 

I 

task for others. 

I If I v/ere asked what sujrprised me mout on my past trip 
abroad, I should say it wai the increasing popularity of 
our language among the Continental nation;?. There v/as a 
time T^Len I thought a Cosmopolitan language such as i 
h^olapuck or Esperanto would become popular on the Contin- 
ent. ITotwith standing the man:; protogonists of Esperanto, 
English is. conquering Europe at a trejnond.vac pact-;. I can ; 
remember the time when a kno7:ledge of Trenrh anr^ Gornan j 
ViTcre absolutely necessary to have made the trip I have de- i 
scribed. Today, one may do so very succesfsfully T^ith 

English alone, and enjoy it greatly in spite of the fact, 

I 

I 

that an intimate knowledge of a people can only be gained 
by personal contact with them. I attribute this popularity 



-304- 



of Englisl: tc three causes: First, to the extraordinary.^ 
increase in foreign travel and corrjiLerce , both English and 
Ainerican; seconc. , to the fact tha,t Prci.nce, C-eririan^r, 
Holland and Switzerland and other countries have made 
English a part of the school curriculum, and third, to the , 
retui-n of raan;; emigrants, who having gained a small fortune 
in our country, desire to end their da^'s in their native 
land. The comtined influence of all these c-gencies lias 
accomplished much in a ver3' short time. Let one land, for 
exesmplGj on any of the Azore Islands, in Madeira or even 
the Canaries, •vm.ere Portuguese is the native tongue, and he 
will he amazed at the nujnber of people v;ho can he found to 
speak English. Ihese, in nearly everj^ case, are returned i 
emigrants who, for the pleasure of conversing v;ith you v^ill 
act as guide and interpreter. The same is true of Italy 
and other European countries, hut becomes less frequent as 
we approach the Orient, u.nless we stick closely to the 
v/ell travelled highvrays . If one does this he may have no 
fear to make a complete tour of the world, for the Anglo- 
Saxon is gaining foot in everj'- ^and and vmerever the Anglo- 
Saxon stag's, he dominates. 

But 7,'hat of the Anglo-Saxon, you Uiay justly ask? By 
what have I been most impressed in his land - and my an- 
swer will be that in the past ten years the decrease of 
intemperance has been so great that to one arriving after 



-365- 



an alDsence cf mony years, it seems aluiost incredible. 
Whether di-unkenness is the result of poverty, or poverty 
the result of intenperanco, ^e noed not inp^uire. But cer 
tain it is, th&t in a great city like London the improve- 
ment 20 verj' carked, roattleoc this la due to many 
causes, not tha least of v.-hich it; that cf the Crusad? cf 
the Salvation Anr^y and sim.'lc^r rcs^cae crgan:?2.atiun3 . The 
increase of the tax on lioenijod Lousos or "Pubs" has also 
had its effect. Purthentiore, the extraordinary activity 
of "The London County Coua.:J.l" in its comprehensive plans 
for the hou,-r:.ing of the poor, h'?-c made the rockery a th:ng 
of cunteriiptj for self ••JT.^poot euid sobriety go hand in hand 

It would be interesting to note my observations on 
pover'cj'- and intemperance in the otiier cities I have visit- 
ed, but I fear the comparison would not be to the credit 
of our o'.vn. Sx.iffice it, throughout Europe this question 
is being successfully combatted as the great connuinpbicn 
of Mineral \7aters and other light beverag-jri v:ill prove. 

One other observation and I shall conclude- Ihars 
seems to be a prevalent opinion among oui people that 
Europe is unfrogressive ; while this reproach was true 
many years ago, it is no longer so, as the tremendous 
growth of the great cities abroad must prove. Cities like 
Munich, Vienna and Berlin have trebled in the past thirty 
years, and smaller towns have improved in proportion, not 

-305- 



t 

merely in nux-^'bers, cut in all the arts and sciencos. In 

;t.he iriatter of education, Gerjiian:,* is the peer of all, and 
the trade mark "Hade in Germany" is doing more to awaken 
jother nations to their lethargy than political discussion 
could eTer do. 

As I have already observed, we are at present in the 
throes of tariff wars, but these barbaric measures must 
eventually succtuiib to fair Reciprocal Trade relations, and 
once this principal is accepted. The International Tribunal 
of .Justice will take its proper place. Standing ansies 
■will then disappear, and there will be brought about a more 
friendly- and intiaate relations of all the nations of the 
eai'th. I am not, however, such a blind optimist as to be- 
lieve that this will be brought about in a night; for self- 
ishness and self-sacrifice are as far apart as in the days 

of Christ, but the world moves on a pace, and the brightest 

I 
minds are now being directed toward the solution of these 

very difficult problems. 



-307- 



ALIO 

And nov; the most difficult part of my task is at hand: 

I must bid icy friends and you, my gentle reader, for the 

nonce farewell. We liave journej'ed through many lands and 

climes and have accomplished in three short months what 

well might have occupied a year. Yet I am sure we have no 

! 
regrets, for whether reader or "compagnon de voyage", there 

has "been created between us a spirit of camaraderie which 
has made the journey worth while. Moreover for myself 
there will ever remain a thousand pleasant memories to 
lighten the day of toil and dispel my cares. If therefore I 
my storjr has increased your love for the scenes I have de- 
scribed, if it has added but a mite to your store of 
knov;ledge, if for a moment onl;- it has made you happy and 
raised a smile, then surel3'- what I have written has not 
been in vain. 



END. 



-308- 



NCV 21 1913 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS A^ 



020 657 29301 



t 




